I found an very old, very short post about the subject and cleaning the AAR with PB Blaster. So I guess I'll try that. But that post did not answer my current problem.

I have had my AAR off of my car and the hose connections plugged for about 6 months now. But it is getting cold and it has been recommended that I put it back in service. So I tested it. And took some pictures along the way. I did the FREEZER test and it opened.

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I sat it in the sun. Very warm exterior case. Kinda tuff to hold it. It absorbed a good bit of heat.... and almost closed.

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Then I broke out my handy dandy 12v drill battery and within a few seconds it was closed.

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here is the question..... I tried to blow thru the closed hole and had ZERO problem doing that. So I suppose when closed that NO AIR should pass thru, correct? Will the PB Blaster cleaning help, or is this baby done for? Any ideas on fixing?

Thanks.

If you can blow thru the AAR after it fully closed, then it's time to junk it and get another.

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I remember that you suggested a BRAND new one.... I guess I can try to remove the male connector on the bad AAR and install it on this. Ya think?

Clark

The force of blowing air through the AAR far exceeds the vacuum from the plenum; all the L-Jet AARs i’ve Used allowed air to pass through when I blew into it.
The real test, ow that you know it functions, is to install it and start the engine. With a cold motor, RPMs are gonna start out higher than normal idle. The warmed engine will drop RPMs to the idle setting

I think yours is functioning properly. You should test its function in the car when the engine is running and there is 12 volts going to the connector. I believe the voltage is only present when the fuel pump is running, so turning the key will not trigger voltage to the AAR unless the starter is cranking.

I found a bad connector pin on my harness causing no voltage to go to my working AAR.

I think new ones are only a available for a small fortune or for a few select organs.

Does anyone know where to find a new one for a reasonable price?

Does anyone rebuild these things?

Check around, they can be found and even really old ones can usually be freed up soaking them in kerosene or oil solvents. Run a WTB ad...

I believe that early 944 ones can be adapted to work. Probably not the correct amount of air bleed versus temperature and/or time, but better than nothing.

--DD

looks like the early 944 one (<85.5 ),I believe the Audi ones are the same also.

Aux Air Regulator for sale at Bus Depot


$129.95 plus $60.00 core.

that sounds good. But I will be pissed if I get one and can still blow thru it.

I have one of those that I bought a long time ago by accident- I have d-jet and have a perfectly functioning d-jet NOS one I installed. -

if you need one let me know- I can send this one your way-
you can pay me once you get it and test it to make sure it works- its been in a box on my shelf for a few years, but it was tested as fully functioning 5 years ago.

Phil

PM sent...

on its way let me know if it works. it should arrive saturday

It is not designed to be closed completely. There is still a small amount of airflow through the AAR even after it is closed.

Just the way it was designed.

Like Jim and Clay said, same when i still have my 75 1.8 Ljet. the AAR is just like yours, it will closed but if you blow air, you can feel some that will pass it.

OK, I have an update, thanks to Philip W. He sent me a valve. I fully bench tested it.

Freezer.... door opens fully.
Room temp..... door is open maybe 3/4.

12v drill battery wired to the connectors..... door closes fully in less than a minute

The final bench test is the blow thru test. I could NOT blow thru the valve. So I would say that this valve is not designed to allow air to flow thru when closed.

So while my former valve operates.... when fully closed it has a good sized leak. I suspect that once Philip's valve is installed I will get a better, more consistent warm (hot) idle.

awesome! let us know how it car runs with it installed -

there may be other issues but at least you can cross this one of the list!

OK, I finally got the AAV from Philip installed.

Recap: Even from the beginning of me driving the car (2013) it did not want to idle until I got the CHT up over 200. I lived with it and rarely had anyone else driving anyway. I did the 1 foot 2 pedals thing until it idled.

About a year ago I had a huge vacuum leak. To remove one possible element, I removed the AAV and plugged the hoses. No help with my idle problem but it eliminated the AAV as a major problem. Found the leak elsewhere and fixed it. Been driving ever since. Almost a year later I remembered to install the AAV.

The fresh one from Philip tested better than my old one. The car idles much better now on initial start up. Not perfect, and not consistent but it will idle. I will add that once the engine is hot I can't really tell a difference. Which is strange, cause this new valve seals much better.... oh well. on to the next issue.

Thanks.

Since your AAV is now functioning correctly, I would warm up the engine and reset the timing and adjust the idle screw.