The car, 1974, retains its original FI. Fires up no problem, but, until it warms up it almost dies as the rpm is almost zero, or, it almost dies until the temp bumps up.
When warm it is a nice 800/900 rpms and idles nicely.

I tried to do a search but it never works for me as the website is beyond my mortal understanding.

Best

auxiliary air intake valve is stuck

Agreed

Most likely cause. Pull the vacuum line from it when cold to see if any air is being pulled through. Then it should close up after ~5 to 8 minutes. If it's not pulling air when the car is stone cold, then it's stuck a closed state, and that's your issue.

Dang.........you giz is fast. Can it be cleaned to operate correctly like soaking in a degreaser ? I use Kano Labs.

The car sat for many years and since coming to it's new home I am trying to work out the bugs.

Yes a lot of the time they can be revived. Some people I believe openthem. But I’ve had good luck with soaking them. Checkfor power was. The single wire too

I after verifying it has power and the unit is actually heating (take it out and hook to 12v battery) typically I take the AAV and pop in in the oven at about 250 for a while and then recheck to see if it opens. also the process of soaking and then heating can help free up a stuck valve.

Of course be careful that any of the things you use to soak are fully removed and/or are not flammable.

Also best to do in a small toaster oven outside as most Mrs. are not fans of car parts in the oven or the smell.

Thanks guys. I'll get on it and report back. Thanks for the tips.

mike

I have better results using google along with "site:914world.com".

So for example, you would type "doesn't idle while cold site:914world.com" into google, and all of your results will be from 914World.

You can do this for any website.

Could be the AAR so verify its function, but you live in SoCal, where it never gets very cold.

You might also check the function of the TS2, it should richen the mixture while cold (a relative term in SoCal), then lean it out as it warms up.

A buddy had an extra auxiliary intake valve to help......ohhh I thought I was in tall cotton. When I saw nothing that looked like it on my engine I went to ebay to view a correct one, maybe. It looked like the borrowed one

I forgot to mention the engine is a 2.0, if it matters.

I look online for a diagram to get my mind right

mike

Is your buddy's car a 1.8L? 1.7 and 2.0 should look the same, but 1.8's are different.

I think you are correct. The part was a 1.8 aux valve as I found a used example online for viewing.

Thank you..........it's a learning curve indeed.

mike

Please excuse my ignorance. What is TS2?

Going from memory, Temperature Sensor 2 is the term used in most manuals for the Head temp sensor.

Thanks

Got them if you need one

Thanks for the explanation of ts2.........I didn't know either.

Welp, I removed the cold start valve, did some cleaning which all I could do is soak the one end of the valve for a while. Re-assembled, fired it off and BAM, as nice smooth cold start idle.

But, I do need to redo the remaining vacuum hoses as I ran out of hose sizes. This is the car that sat for a very long time else where. The hoses are brittle, not good.

Will see if the smooth idle works today.

Side note, I checked on several sites the cost of a new cold start valve
What the?

I now understand why folks go the carburation

Cold start valve gives an extra burst of fuel for starting when the thermo switch is below a certain temperature, like 35 degrees or something. Are you talking temps like that? The CSV should then close pretty quickly after that. Many people run without a CSV, particularly where it doesn't often get below freezing.

FI is great, but when it hasn't been maintained over time vacuum lines, sensors, and wiring get old and start to fail. Troubleshooting it can be difficult when you've got more than one thing going wrong, as it sends mixed signals / symptoms. Replace the hoses and start troubleshooting / testing things one by one.

Post in the classifieds that you're looking for one, there's probably a few folks here that might have an extra or two...

Whoa! You said cold start valve. Are you sure? That's not the same as auxiliary(supplemental) air valve.

The cold start valve on a stock D-Jet FI ONLY operates when two conditions are true.

1) When the temp is below XX degrees. The thermo-time switch below plenum handles this, not the ECU, not the head temp sensor, not the air temp sensor.

---AND---

2) When the starter is cranking. Ones the engine fires and you let go of they key, the CSV turns off.


To put it a different way, the CVS has two wires -- power and ground. Power is supplied through the yellow starter wire. If the starter is turning the CSV has power. If the starter is not turning, the CSV has no power supply. Ground for the CSV is through the Thero-time switch. This is a simple temp controlled switch. If the thermo-time switch is below XX degrees then the CSV has a ground connection. If the temp is above XX then there is no ground and the CSV can't spray.

It's a pretty smart system that simply evaluates two conditions, BOTH of which must be true in order for the CSV is open and spray fuel. Most people consider it a fuel injection component, but to my way of thinking, it's a completely independant, stand-alone system. You could remove the ECU completely, and the CSV system will still operate.

Or, when it’s old and stuck open or semi open to enriched your mixture all the time, specifically designed to drive you crazy.