THANK you everyone, me and my dad were able to drop it out without even cutting nor drilling any bolt whatsoever. So i had the car up on 1 cinderblock high, and basically, using two jacks on either side of the engine mounting large bracket. Bye doing this, there was no down pressure on the bar which was ultimately holding the nut in the deepest part of the oddly located and shaped (cover?)-holding the nut and bolt on either sides. BECAUSE of this, i was finally able to get my hand and a wrench on the nut, and a socket on the bolt.

Also bye jacking the bar, with two jacks close to the middle (leaving the bolt and nut accessible) basically, only the top of the bolt is threaded, so i was able to push up on the bolt, and push it in farther, allowing the nut to be raised and provide easy access. Sorry if i am hard to understand, i am surely not majoring in english!! Haha

All in all, i am very thankful for the 914 community and support, as i was able to make huge progress today. Now i get to work with the motor and get the baby cleaned out (it is a bored out 1.7L to a 2litre) and looking and sounding good. In the next few posts i am going to provide images to respresent my directions ^ and hopefully make this adventure more informative for whomever reads this thread

2

3

And 4

Awesome! Looking good Cam. Much cleaner than the first time I pulled my '74 motor.

Planning on converting to 5-lug (looking at the 911 hubs in the background)?

Haha yes you know it! And thank you, im excited to finally get to the nitty gritty and try to get the most powerful 4cyl as i can

That is commonly referred to as a "1.9" or a "1911" (which is the displacement in CC of a 96mm bore and the stock 66mm stroke).

A 2.0 motor is 94mm bore X 71mm stroke, for 1971cc displacement. Calling your 1911 a "2 liter" is a bit of a misrepresentation.

--DD

Very interesting, as i will admit i at this point i am very ill informed regarding engine specifications, compression rates, and ect. Thank you for pointing this out I appreciate any info you have to offer

Gosh this looks AND smells horrible!
The engine tin and especially screws are so corroded and stuck i can barely move ANY of them! Yes i used tons of liquid wrench, and gave it time to sit. Any ideas? Thanks!!

I definitely have to get my tetanus shot now

And lastly, this grease covored oily mess

Those RH intake ports don't look so hot...is that white stuff corrosion and does it run the whole way down the port?

Sadly it is corrosion, and from what i can tell, the engine is basically filled with it; including all the way down the port

Worked on cleaning it up with purple power luquid, metal bristled brushes, and some elbow grease. Got to admit, it barely seems to look any better. I wish i could power wash it, or would that be too harsh to the crevices of a bare engine? Any tips or tricks would be great

For the engine tin screws, I have found a few things that help.

1- Get the correct size screwdriver. I know they're just slot-head screws, but if you get a driver that fits the slot snugly it helps. I found that the largest screwdriver I could find at my local Sears was the correct size. If you can, take one of the engine tin screws with you to check the fit against the screwdrivers in the store or in your Best Friend's tool collection.

2- Impact can help. Put the driver in the screw, then give the handle end of the driver a sharp rap with a mallet. This can, sometimes, help break a bond between the fastener and what it is screwed into.

3- Use a good penetrating oil. Liquid Wrench is OK, WD-40 is not. I like PB Blaster and Kano's Aero Kroyl. Others have said that paraffin also works if you heat the fastener.

4- Which leads us to the other big thing, heat. The "hot wrench" can help break the bond between parts. Use with caution, and make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy.

--DD

Lots of heat and then the paraffin/wax as it cools. The heat wicks in the wax. Works well.

not good don't expect too much ,outside stored motor,generally not a great out come,bottom end might be ok???
In this case I would say the pistons will be seized in the bores .

Thank you guys so much, i will try all the suggested techniques, and update you all on the outcome!

I'd highly suggest going out and buying an impact screw driver to remove engine tin screws (also work well for the rotor screws, etc). When you hit them with a hammer they rotate slightly so the turning is perfectly timed with the impact; I've rarely stripped a tough screw using one. You can buy Lisle 3/8" one at sears or off Amazon for ~$20 and it's worth every penny.

Sadly on the other intake, some bolts are stripped, and i am currently trying to get them out

Also, for everyone that is interested, i have some 914 things up so far, but i am about to offer many more parts (refurbished) on ebay!!

Here is my link;

My Webpage

https://ebay.com/usr/cagrave-0

Also, is it correct for the intakes farthest nut (closest to the tranny) to be a different size? It could be that mines so rusted and deformed, but it seems to me to be genuinely smaller than the other three 13mm bolts that bolt the piped on. Im just curious!!

Still have yet to touch this guy!!!! Haha, the parts are beautiful though i am very excited to eventually get to it

Does anyone have a pro and con list of shocks and struts compared to the price. I want to go with KYB gas adjust, is that ok for performance?

No. If you want performance shocks, go billstein or koni. If you want economical and good street driving go Boge. If you can only afford kyb’s, save your money until you can spend more.

I appreciate it. I do have the money, but i dont really understand the difference in the shocks and struts from one to another

I second mepstein's advice. Went with Billstein and never regretted it.

Trying to get better at refurbishing parts in general. I am pretty excited about this blower/heater

Another pic

3..

This looks good right?