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Krieger
Fwiw, in my search for information on hydraulic lifters for type 1 (not here) I came across guys that were having troubles with hydraulic lifters that ran a thinner weight oil for a while to help "clean things out". Maybe there is something to that? Do an oil/filter analysis first of course.
Elliot Cannon
QUOTE(Rand @ Feb 18 2018, 10:48 AM) *

Yeah, it only won the WCR AX. Maybe the flogging followed by non use has stacked up a toll?

I worry about this with mine. It's been sitting lately. They need to be driven regularly and filtered as much.

Question: Can sludge be flushed with chemical additives and such? I know there are a ton of products on the shelves that make claims. But, they must sacrifice good oiling in the process if they are dissolving that crap. Sigh. I hope this doesn't mean a tear down.

There should be like a dialysis machine that you could hook up to and flush every oil passage clean while offline. Heh.


I had a friend years ago who would drain the oil and then fill the sump/oil pan with kerosene, run the engine for a very short time, drain the kerosene, then refill with oil again. He swore it would clean things out. Did I mention this guy was very "old school"? laugh.gif
rick 918-S
QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Feb 17 2018, 10:50 AM) *

You can also send a sample to these guys. I know, this is airplane stuff but it's still an air cooled boxer style horizontally opposed engine. I have airplane oil checked every oil change every 25 hours. I know that sounds like over-kill but if my engine has trouble, I can't pull over and stop on the side of the road. av-943.gif http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppa...lickkey=3058045


Second that. I lost pressure at idle once. Half way to the RRC one year. Caught a flight home. Went back with a trailer for the car. Had the filter oil tested. The viscosity enhancers were cooked out of the oil. No metal. My 20/50 was the viscosity of 20 W. Changed the oil every thing was fine. Ask the truckers in your are where they get this done.
injunmort
really, just run the motor on kerosene? i guess if you want to see the main bearings in the sump. you want to flush, run a pint of atf in the oil and then change. there is so much detergent in atf it will flush it or you can use seafoam in the oil. or just run the motor dry, the heat and friction will flush it for sure.
76-914
Andy, thought I'd resurrect this thread in that your headed to WCR18. Did you discover the cause and correct it or was it a lifter or oil viscosity? confused24.gif
McMark
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Feb 18 2018, 02:34 PM) *

QUOTE(Cracker @ Feb 18 2018, 10:20 AM) *
When did you change the oil last Sir-Andy?

Right before McMark moved his shop. The car hasn't been driven much since though.
popcorn[1].gif

Apparently this picture is from 2011.... blink.gif

Way longer ago than I thought. But I don't remember changing the oil after this. But I am 40 now...
SirAndy
That's a story best be told at night in a parking lot with a cold beer in my hand ...
drunk.gif
larryM
helluva lot of voodoo witchcraft ideas above

how about you just see if an electrical connection failed momentarilY since you got psi back again w.o.; any recommended voodoo soluitions applied?

even better - OLD SCHOOL - go get a $20 FLAPS analog gage & attach it temporarily - get instant answer!
IronHillRestorations
FWIW the "old school engine flush" is 1 part kerosene or diesel to 3 parts new oil, run until it gets warm to the touch and drain. Refill with new oil, change oil in 500 miles or 8 hours. This is what a Navy mechanic told me anyway.
porschetub
Come on whats the deal just no info since the issue,fess up biggrin.gif ,don't think its bad oil with viscosity issues unless an injector puked and spat leaking raw fuel into the motor,this isn't a common problem but I don't know these motors much.
Did you have hyd tappet noise previous to shutdown ???.
Tried all those old mothers remedys but atf ,kerosene ,diesel ....good luck on that might have been ok on some old 1960 engine but not in this case.
Hope you get it sorted without $$$$$,good luck Andy.
porschetub
QUOTE(Perry Kiehl @ Jun 7 2018, 03:01 PM) *

FWIW the "old school engine flush" is 1 part kerosene or diesel to 3 parts new oil, run until it gets warm to the touch and drain. Refill with new oil, change oil in 500 miles or 8 hours. This is what a Navy mechanic told me anyway.


Actually you are correct,diesel is kinda ok ,reminds me when I ran a smaller stern trawler my first job as chief engineer had 2 aux engines to run domestic power and winches,we swapped load every 200 hrs but they had a habit of puking injectors before service time (2K hrs) and the oil dipstick would float up and down in the tube,used to be a mad rush to change duty biggrin.gif biggrin.gif .
We used to do overhaul them every 45K hours ,the bottom end bearing were always within service hours but replaced anyway.
Anyway rant over .
falcor75
Just drain the oil and split open the filter. If theres something wrong it wont fix itself and you'll just worry untill you know, an idientified problem is a problem that can be fixed, untill then its just speculation.
pcar916
Goodness I need to read more posts! My 3.6 did the same thing some years back driving home from a long hard track day, but without that much drama. The valve-noise lasted for about 10 seconds several times. It wasn't all of the valves though, perhaps two of them and my oil pressure was fine.

A few folks thought it was likely the hydraulic valve adjusters and I found that a plausible thing.

Changed the oil, inspected the filter (no metal) and it never returned. I guess it's a good thing Porsche had two oil filters for that engine.
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