It’s good to see the board alive and well, I've keep track but haven’t posted in a long time. The reason that I’m back is that a reoccurring pain in the neck problem came back and the 914 has been parked since (6 months). The problem is a broken clutch tube. Attached is a picture of the problem when it first occurred……….which I thought was permanently fixed with a plug weld, but I guess I thought wrong because it’s broken again. The plug weld lasted 4 years, has anyone got any ideas on a permanent fix for this problemClick to view attachment

Mine was not detached like yours but as a preventative, I welded a .0625" thick x 1"x1"x1.5" long piece of angle iron over the clutch tube. As far forward as my MIG weld tip would allow through shifter opening. I then stitch welded the angle to the tunnel floor and tunnel wall. Then some spot welds from the angle to the tube.

sir, did u just weld the forward front and not the one in the middle part?
Looks like you still have the original tunnel fuel lines. Maybe it’s time to replace them with SS fue tunnel lines. Not that expensive and not so difficult to replace.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=274079

Look at this posting.

There are a few ways to fix this.

Bob B

My 6 when I got it had a u clamp over the tube and 2 thin nuts squeezing the tube to the left side of the tunnel. I guess it worked but I fixed it by welding a bracket over it when I had it apart.

Question is how far do you want to go in?

Bob B

YEP.... that is what a PO did with mine. U-Bolt thru the floor pan holding the tube at just about the place that the bracket was. along with several door knob holes in the top of the tunnel. Guess he was hunting where the problem was.

Along with welding a 1/4" thick 2" x 2" piece of steel on the outside firewall. They cut a notch in the plate so the tube would sit in it.

I have been 40K miles of daily driving with this shade tree fix. Pretty difficult to fix "right".

It can be done with a wide heater hose clamp.
Use a cut-off wheel to make two parallel slots about 3/4" apart one above the other on
the side of the tunnel. Dress the ends or the slots with a small round file.
Feed the end of the clamp into the lower slot then around the tube and out the upper
slot. Feed the plain end of the clamp into the tightening slot and tighten away.
It's tough on the fingers but it works.....with less fear than welding.
Use a hole saw to make a 2" access hole in the top of the tunnel to allow access to
install the clamp.

A correct plug weld...or two ...or three is a permanent fix. See photo in the linked thread.

I like Dr Evil and Barefoot's fix.

This was my 6 when I fixed the lose tube. The drill is a heat sink so it does not burn through.



Bob B Click to view attachment

wow excellent picture, we reinstall the original bracket, weld the tube to the bracket and the bracket to the side of the tunnel, then go into the middle and weld the tube there and finally in the back burning out the factory braise and welding the tube to the firewall and have never had an additional problem (of course keep the cable well lubricated, the clevis and bushing in good condition, and the rear roller assembly clean and lubricated

That's what I did to mine just as a preventative measure while I had the tunnel open for floor replacement. Tube was still in place, but the brazing was starting to crack. It was only a matter of time.

At the firewall end, I fashioned a bracket that wrapped around, and was welded to the tube and then plug welded to the floor, in addition to welding the tube to the firewall.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Some more from 41 pre PMB.

Bob B

Maybe time for a Hyd. clutch?

David

Thanks for all of the great replies.....I've got a reasonably good idea of how to attack this problem, again

Greg