Is the "Right passenger inner wheel house firewall" the proper part to repair
the rust holes deep in the bowels of the hell hole? Beneath the battery?

With the worst cars this can be the horrible reality it however depends on how much battery leakage and were the car has been in it's life, wet climate or dry climate,IMO this is the most troublesome area ,thats @ a close second to where the factory put foam .
Many on here know more than me so I will retire for an evening meal .

Pics of the damage and a link to the part you are referencing would help. I had to replace the inner wheelhouse on mine using the Restoration Design part: http://www.restoration-design.com/store/SRCH?Search=PP331, but it isn't always needed and depends on how deep the corrosion went. Outer and inner longitudinals seem to be more common and the inners can often be patched depending on severity of damage and your skill. RD calls the outer longitudinal an "Inner Rocker."

Post pics and you'll get lots of help!

1st pic shows my hell hole from above:


2nd pic shows damage on bottom of vehicle, that is going to require me to replace more than just one piece of sheet metal. It looks like for me the firewall portion is okay.

I cut a piece from a donor car for the inner section, I replaced the outer section with the R&D parts and used the third party long replacement which needed a lot of adjustment.


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Did you cut a portion of quarter panel off or drill out the spot welds and remove entire panel?

Here come some photos, and thanks much!Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Thanks, Brent. Not sure if the pics went through. May have gotten mixed up with another same situation of the hell hole. Click to view attachment

The inner wheelhouse part you're PROBABLY looking at will only correct the wall that the battery tray is attached to. You'll still have to repair the longitudinal, firewall, engine shelf, and battery tray. Most of those panels are basically flat and can simply be cut from sheet metal.

1. It's not really as simple as your question makes it seem.
2. It's not a one day or weekend repair.
3. You will likely need to disassemble much of it with the door gap braced to make welded repairs, likely using a number of pieces of reproduced steel from places like Restoration Design.
4. If you can weld and have the time, shop space, and materials it can be rewarding. It will usually not make you money unless it is someone else's car.

I did both sides of two cars by removing rocker, jackpoint, and cutting out bad steel from inner rocker and some of inside longitudinal, repairing to original thickness, and then adding what is often known as an"Engman longitudinal stiffening kit" paying tribute to one of the early developers of this technique for a 914. There are other similar products now made. Along the way there will be repairs needed to the bottom of the inner and outer engine firewall, as well as to the floor pan and the rear jacking triangles. See pictures. Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment[attachmentid=640
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That hole is part of the inner long and can often be patched. You'll need to pull off your rocker cover and poke around at least from the jack point rearward with a screwdriver to figure out what else is rotted because it rarely stops there. Here is a pic of what the inner wheelhouse area of mine looked like before repair to give you an example of one that needed to be replaced.



There are a number of build threads both past and present that have great information on tackling these repairs. Jeff Hail's "Bring out your dead" is one of the best. Here is a link to about where my hell hole repair starts and includes patching that spot in your pics. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2515579 Mine wasn't the worst one that has been rescued, but it was getting up there.

And then finishing up with the extra stiffening layers to make better than new:Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment[attachmentid
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Sorry, but I have to hijack. Did you fabricate that floor patch, or take it from a donor?

Looks like a section of the reproduction floor pans.
http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP345B

Yes, I just cut a section from the RD rear quarter floor panels. The rest of the floor was in really good shape, so I didn't want to cut that many spot welds and then burn that many rosettes. Other's will agree that sometimes a few small patches are quicker than doing the full panel replacement. It depends what you have to work with and what you want in the end. I wanted to be driving and it wasn't to be a rotisserie Concours resto. It was to be a stiffer track ready driver.

You asked about the "right passenger wheel house". I had to replace that piece and cut a patch to repair the top of the long below the battery, the engine shelf & the battery support & tray. My car didn't have any rust below in the long....you may not be as lucky.

right inner firewall yes along with the engine shelf and maybe the upper longitudinal part The very first parts we made ever were to repair this area, Hopefully you do not need much. Also in this area are
right rear floor pan
inner right firewall
outer right firewall
right inner rocker panel
jack post and support
floor pan triangle
battery tray
battery tray support
engine bay c channel
trunk hinge cup
control unit bracket
inner suspension console
right outer rocker panel

the only two pieces that we do not make are the outer three bolt suspension console and the right engine mounting pod, but have found in very few cases that these parts cannot be reused

I cut this section from the donor with a sawsall, than used a small pneumatic saw and spot weld drill.


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Cut down to these sizes.

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This is the section I welded in for the outer, a previous image has the inside piece welded in to span over the repair.


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I cut sections from the front and rear fenders to gain access to the rusted areas.



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More info on that lift?

I replaced the drivers side long on father-in-laws '70 911 targa, I had to cut the rear qtr panel, luckily my car needs a complete repaint.

EZ Car Lift, I bought the caster set so I could spin the car around to work on both sides.


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I added rubber pads to support the pan.
Great tool, 150 lbs. uses an electric drill for up and down movement.

ezcarlift.com

Thanks, I just sent the wife a text asking for one.....she told me to back to work

Brent, does that part consist of two pieces welded together, as implied by the RD description?

R&D their outside panel is 2 piece inner and outer panels spot welded together, while the inside long section is single wall but corrugated.

Thanks! But isn't that inside long section supposed to be double wall also? I.e., the corrugated piece is hidden inside the long, but the exposed skin, where the engine mount and suspension console are attached, is smooth. At least, that's the way it is on the car originally, AFAIK.

Yes, you get the whole double wall treatment. It is an intimidating piece, but actually not too hard to put in.

Yep, the factory inner long is double wall from in front of the seat belt mount all the way back (or close to it). I spent several weeks fabricating patches for inner and outer walls on both sides of the car as others have shown on this thread.

I think that the "Right passenger inner wheel house firewall" is the proper sheet metal to repair the rust/holes beneath the battery hell hole. Correct?Click to view attachment

Thanks, Brent. The jack hole is pretty bad but difficult to see any more damage rearward due to the fender, which seems solid, (from the outside.) Lots of rust debris inside the holes, however.

yo i cut out all of the rust and rewelded it with a 99$ harbor freight welder as a beginner.. Not sure of your level or experience but if i can do it, literally anyone can. check out my signature for the blog info on my welding.

If you can post some other photos from farther back that would be helpful. When i was welding or asking for welding advice i would provide as much detail as possible. I would always use a piece of steel that i got from ace to try to match the thickness of what i cut out. Give me a call if you have any questions and i can walk you through from a beginners perspective. PM me for number.

-Brett

[quote name='Chip' post='2586115' date='Mar 5 2018, 09:38 PM']
I think that the "Right passenger inner wheel house firewall" is the proper sheet metal to repair the rust/holes beneath the battery hell hole. Correct?

Do not use a flux core welder for body work. The chances of leaving flux material in the weld is very high. Down the road that will cause adherence problems. Buy a better welder and sell it off when your done.

You will need to open the outside section to see how much damage.
The hellhole there is the top of the inner long.

Thanks to you all.