Well… pedal clusters seem to be a hot topic lately. We’re getting a tremendous amount of calls for them so I thought there’s probably others out there that are in need or thinking about repairing their pedal clusters.

The age-old adage applies, with a “30 something year old” (car that is) things are bound to begin to show wear. What happens to pedal assemblies often is brake fluid from a leaking master cylinder usually shoots directly into the car from the brake actuator rod. It ends up sitting in the “pan” of your pedal assembly. Brake fluid eats through the paint and works it’s magic on the 30-year-old nylon bushings that Porsche used to make things go smooth. The entire assembly sits under a layer of carpet and the pedal board. Not too many people get in there to check the status of their assembly (maybe this will spur you on). So there it sits… rusting away with crumbling old nylon bushings.

Here’s what it takes to fix it. Let’s take a look at this fairly simple procedure. I’ll start with a list of tools needed:

 Ratchet Wrench
 3” Extension
 17mm Socket
 13mm Socket
 13mm Open end Wrench
 5mm Allen Key or Allen Socket
 3/16” Pin Punch (or, preferably, an air hammer with a pointed bit)
 3/8” Pin Punch (or, preferably, an air hammer with a blunt bit)
 PB Blaster (or other good penetrant)
 Flat Head Screwdriver
 Needle Nose Pliers

Step #1 – Get it Out.

I’ll start with a little primer on removing the assembly. Start the night (or the week) before by removing your carpet and floorboard (now is the time to order your Engman board). Once the board is away from the pedal assembly area, spray the penetrating oil on the 13mm nuts that hold the pan to the floor. Next you’ll need to remove the steering rack cover from under the car. Remove two 17mm bolts from the back of the pan and two small 13mm bolts toward the front. The pan should drop right down along with a ton of gravel and spiders that have been going along for a free ride. Now remove the two 13mm nuts on either side of the master cylinder holding it to your firewall. Pull the master cylinder back off the studs. You may run into a little resistance with the rubber boot that slips around the brake actuator rod. The master cylinder should be fine hanging there with the brake lines attached.

Back inside. Remove the access cover and disconnect the accelerator cable (ball and cup) and the clutch cable (clevis clip). With the clutch you pull the clip off the line, swing it upward and pull the pin out. Take care to lay the cables out so they won’t intertwine when reconnecting. This makes for an interesting display of RPM’s when the clutch is engaged. Pull up on your accelerator pedal and remove the rod that is pressed in the back. Hopefully your penetrating oil has soaked in well and you can now remove the 13mm nuts holding the pan to the floor with relative ease. The penetrant is a pretty important step because you don’t want to be welding another stud onto your floorpan, especially in this fragile area. Remove the assembly. This is a good time to check your accelerator pedal. With the spring encased in the rubber, it usually collects water at the base of the pedal and rusts the spring inside. If you have a wobbly pedal now is a great time to change it out. Again, use penetrating oil and be “very” careful with the 10mm nuts holding the pedal to the floor.

It's out...

Step #2 - Removing Ancillary Items

The old rusty, grungy pedal assemblies will require some force (generally) to get them apart. You don’t want to damage any of your more delicate items. Use the screwdriver to remove the brake light switch. You may want to take a good look at it or a digital picture of it first so you know how it goes back. Remove the accelerator pedal rod (ball and socket). Take the needle nose pliers and remove the cotter pins holding the accelerator bracket and the brake rod in place and remove both those items. One more thing I like to remove (or, semi-remove) is the clutch spring. Take a screwdriver and pry up the end that is hooked to the pedal pan. You’ll be removing that rod and sometimes the spring will snap and break under the load.

Items off...

Load off the spring...

Step #3 – Remove the Pedals

Here comes the fun part, removing the pedals from the assembly. Take the 3/16” pin punch and hammer out the pin holding the clutch pedal to the rod. This takes a bit of practice and some precarious perching on the vise. For the “easy way” I like to use an air hammer “and” the punch. The air hammer with a pointed bit will drive the pin in a ways where the punch can easily take over. Now, if you’re lucky, the clutch arm will simply spin right off. It may take a little effort and it may take a “LOT” of effort. If you’re running into problems here I recommend either soaking it in penetrating oil overnight, for a week, for a month… (you get the picture) or a combination of oil and heat using a high heat torch like MAPP or acetylene. Your nylon bushings will be toast but, that’s why we’re here anyway. Another trick that is “very” effective is the air hammer with a blunt bit. I’ve found that by propping the pan in the vise and giving a few bursts with the air hammer the rod will push right out. ***IMPORTANT*** Don’t wrench on this too much. Your “pan” is the only area of support when you’re attempting to get this rod and pedal apart. It bends quite easily.

Once you have the clutch pedal removed you can remove the 13mm nut and slide the center shaft out that is supporting the brake pedal. Everything should fall into (or out of) place at this point. Use a screwdriver to pry out the old bushings.

Here's a shot of the pin coming out...

Clutch shaft coming out...

Removing the 13mm and pulling out the clutch tube allows the brake pedal to slide out...

Here's what your nylon bushings look like...

All the parts and pieces...

Step #4 – Prep the Metals

Your pan looks like hell right? You really need to get in there and prep this stuff before you put it back together. You’ll need to wire brush, sand blast or glass bead blast (best) them to bare metal. I realize that most people here won’t have a glass bead blasting cabinet in their garage but it’s well worth the effort or the $20.00 bucks to find someone who does. There’s nothing like refinishing bare metal for not only a good-looking result but also a long lasting result.

I’ve used a couple of finishes with great success. POR-15 (or similar, I like Zero-Rust now, it comes in convenient spray cans and it’s what the military specs for the bottom of Hum-Vees) or “Plating” As most of you know, I’m plating them now. Not for the “Bling” factor (it does look nice however) but more for the protection. Let’s face it, 80% is going to be hidden behind the carpet. Plating isn’t going to flake and disintegrate like the paint.

This is a good looking pan...

Step #5 – Reassemble

This should be fairly straightforward. If you’re using bronze bushings (which I recommend), the kit mentions their self-lubricating properties and to use light oil on assembly. I use small amounts of Mobil 1 Synthetic grease on both sides of the bushing. I don’t think it really matters either way. Lube them up and begin your reassembly process.

Install the large bushings into the brake pedal. Slide the large brake spring over the pedal. Put the pedal in the pan and position it so the straight leg on the spring is resting against the bottom of the pan. The pedal should rest full forward. Next slide the clutch tube into the assembly and install the bushings. Make sure the brake pedal is on the backside of the “stop” and bolt the clutch tube/pedal stop into place. Install the clutch spring onto the clutch pedal shaft and slide the shaft through the bushings. Next press the clutch pedal onto the shaft and align the pinhole. Again, make sure the pedal is resting on the proper side of the stop. Use a vise to press the pin into the pedal and shaft.

Much has been said about these pins and I believe from looking at factory roll pins and the ones now included in the kits that this has been rectified. However: I install these pins from the "top" of the arm making it nearly impossible for them to work their way loose and end up on the floor of your car.

Install the remaining bushings. There should be three left, two for the accelerator and one to press into your clutch arm. If your nylon bushing is still in the arm, use a screwdriver to punch it out. Use a vise to simply press the new bronze bushing back in. The two accelerator bushings should be straightforward. Use new cotter pins to secure the accelerator and the brake actuator assemblies.

This shows the brake pedal and clutch pedal on the proper side of the mount. The pin is being pressed in with the vise...

The plating makes it hard to get a good photo. Here's the accelerator assembly installed with the coter pin in...

Here's a finished assembly showing the brake switch mount and the accelerator pedal rod. I glass bead blast the rod and redo the "Black Oxide" treatment.

Step #6 – Installation

As the good book says… installation is the reverse of Step #1.

Enjoy. As always, I hope someone can get some use out of this. I think if it causes only a few people to go look at their pedal assemblies it will be worth while. If yours is in good shape then it’s always a good time to clean it out (spring cleaning you know…), the spare change you find down there might even make it worth your while.

(final step - box it up and send it to William Harris )

Defininte classic

Nice write up Eric

Another classic...

I used a puller to remove my clutch pedal from the shaft. Patrick Pickerell and I also took an hour and a shop full of tools to remove the bloody roll pin first. I didn't put a new roll pin back in, I used a bolt and a nut instead. I had to press the clutch pedal back onto the shaft, too.

Eric, great post, obviously a "classic" thread.

Also great promotion for your rebuild service (and others), let's us make a very informed decision on whether to tackle this ourselves.

Thanks,
Eric

I fig'r, share the love.

It's not too difficult to do yourself but, if others want to add up the plating and blasting charges, I think what I offer is a good deal. I did the same thing with the rear calipers and I've had a few people call and e-mail thanking me for the info. It makes me just as happy when they can successfully do it themselves as it does for me to do it for them...

I want that in my car, without all the hassle of actually moving my arms.



PM Later Erok, I have the plan!


M

Very nice, do you do it for others? If so how much if I just send you the whole assembly?

Ian Stott

Thanks Eric for the great write up! The most important thing I learned from it...send you my pedal cluster for rebuild!

your username should be "MR. Classic Thead" !!

QUOTE

your username should be "MR. Classic Thead" !!

LOL

It just always bummed me out that people had to go elsewhere for shitty advice, when they can get shitty advice from me right here!

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Jun 4 2005, 06:10 PM)

QUOTE your username should be "MR. Classic Thread" !! LOL It just always bummed me out that people had to go elsewhere for shitty advice, when they can get shitty advice from me right here!

LMAO!

no, this is seriously a great thread as always!

was the cluster I sent even rebuildable? that thing looked like SHIT!! I can't wait to put in my "Shea sweet cluster"

Ian, He Does do it for others, and as with his calipers, they turn out GREAT!! I have shea brakes And shea pedals... his work is great, customer service is amazing and prices VERY reasonable... when I pulled my cluster, it looked terrible and didn't feel right when it was in the car... I KNEW how it was getting fixed... Eric had a PM the same day, and I got the new cluster 3-4 days later(too late in the weekend to mail it out sooner)

QUOTE

no, this is seriously a great thread

Oh just wait... there's something wrong with it. Wait for Rich or the Cap'n to weigh in here. My pragmatic ramblings are no match for their intellect.

And now you're putting me on the spot... Others will be expecting that "Yes Sir Mr. Fry" service... you said you wouldn't tell!

Eric just when I'm ready to send you my cluster, you give your secrests away!!!

This has got to be a classic thread.

Oh... forgot to mention; It’s impossible to rebuild an assembly in MO. Certain climatic conditions won't allow it

Eric: thanks for all the pictures and step by step. I can recognize the before - but the after - WOW - can't wait to get it back. Thank you so much.

Pedal Porn.

OUT_FRIGGIN_STANDING!

I've got a small blasting cabinet that I'm about to attempt something similar on. I've paid people to do it in the past, and I'll continue to support those that do this sort of thing, but it's ALWAYS nice to have the 'step-by-step' to do them on my own as well.

Again...outstanding work!

Thanks Doug!

QUOTE

I've got a small blasting cabinet that I'm about to attempt something similar on.

Those are well worth it. I think you can get one for around $70.00. They can't do everything but they sure can make the small stuff look nice. I job out my big orders now but it's nice to have a small cabinet around to clean things up.

PM me if you have any Q's, if you do them yourself. It's pretty straightforward.

I found a place in Mexico that will beat Eric's price by nearly 7%, using his instructions..

GROUP BUY!




M

Él que tiene sexo con las cabras

Oh My God - the emoticons have gone wild! Stop the madness - buy from Eric.

Moving to the Classics section. I don't know how I missed this...

I just had the broken clutch shaft replaced about 2 weeks ago.

I noticed a couple days ago, it seemed that I had to push the clutch down further to get it to shift.

When I took it in to the mechanic today, to have a couple other issues worked on, and when he brought it back to the shop and had pushed the clutch in, her said he heard something snap. Yikes! Well, it looks like the used clutch shaft took a dump again.

Since the conversion, nothing had been changed for the last 4 years with the clutch, and so I don't know why two of them have broke, except maybe they are aged and fatigued?

I was wondering if a person could make a clutch shaft out of stainless steel shaft, but not sure how the end is mounted on, where the cable attaches? I wouldn't think the end where the clutch leg goes would be too hard to make, just the other end of it maybe?

Or do they make a upgraded/new pedal assembly?

Very odd and rare. I thought Pelican had new shafts for little money?

I love fresh Cad plating ! Like Christmas !

I didn't see any listed.

I was told that it could be something along these lines making it break? Otherwise it was shifting ok, and wouldn't think it would be anything internal. Maybe it has been adjusted enough that the clutch arm is slamming into something, making it push harder, and thus snapping it? This is with the Subie engine in it.



Something is limiting the travel of the clutch linkage, cable or the clutch arm might be contacting the transaxle case when the clutch is depressed. The clutch pedal should be fairly easy to depress.
It's not the shaft. you need something repaired in the clutch.

just want to thank Eric Shea for his efforts in writing and supplying the images.

my only problem was in removing the clutch pedal from the shaft.

I put the assembly into a ultra sonic cleaner with Evapo rust as the fluid,

ran it for about an hour and then let it sit over night. it finally came off.

thanks again for the instructions.

after disassembly, I cleaned, then wire wheel, then evapo rust, then wire wheel,

then picklex rust converter, then paint.

randal

before and after.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Don't do that. He'll just get a "bigger" head, now.

Thanks for the post. It gave me confidence to try it myself.

I was able to get the roll pin out by drilling it with progressively larger bits. I bought a Drill Doctor ($20 on craigslist) since the bits got dull after about 30 seconds of use. Armed with bits and Drill Doctor, it took about 30 minutes to get the pin out. No hammer needed.

I pulled the pedal assembly because the clutch pedal has a bit of play in it. The play comes about because the clutch attachment point (roll pin) does not fit flush to the pedal assembly body, so it slides back and forth a fraction of an inch. That shifting translates to a noticeable movement at the clutch pedal. I added a shim and greatly reduced the issue. Someone else had already put in brass bushings, but they did not add a shim.

Thanks again for an excellent write up.