Full Version: More dumb questions
I"m back with more dumb questions. First, is it necessary to have heat exchangers? Could I just have headers or do the heat exchangers help dissipate heat from the engine? Second, does anyone have any advice on how to get the trunk hinge back on the roller? So far all of my attempts have been unsuccessful; however, I do have all of my fingers and eyes so I guess that's a win.
Headers are fine. Heat is nice in these cars but not mandatory.
QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 25 2018, 10:54 AM) 
Headers are fine. Heat is nice in these cars but not mandatory.
I'm not concerned with having heat, heck I'll rarely even take it out with the top on. I'm just making sure headers won't increase the heat on the engine..
I dont have heat exchangers either and dont drive it in the winter. Makes valve adjustments (etc) easier.
QUOTE(sjhenry1075 @ Apr 25 2018, 11:09 AM)
QUOTE(mepstein @ Apr 25 2018, 10:54 AM)
Headers are fine. Heat is nice in these cars but not mandatory.
I'm not concerned with having heat, heck I'll rarely even take it out with the top on. I'm just making sure headers won't increase the heat on the engine..
They wont.
QUOTE(sjhenry1075 @ Apr 25 2018, 10:36 AM)
...Second, does anyone have any advice on how to get the trunk hinge back on the roller? So far all of my attempts have been unsuccessful; however, I do have all of my fingers and eyes so I guess that's a win.
Hinge, or spring? It's been decades since I last did that, but I seem to recall having success using a box end wrench on the end of the spring.
QUOTE(sjhenry1075 @ Apr 25 2018, 07:36 AM)
...does anyone have any advice on how to get the trunk hinge back on the roller? So far all of my attempts have been unsuccessful; however, I do have all of my fingers and eyes so I guess that's a win.
Do you mean the torsion rod?
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=39320
Make sure the engine tin is in place, it keeps the hot air under the car, under the car.
As for the trunk spring, use a box end wrench 11mm I think works, longest handle you have. That gets it started, factory bar is used in conjunction with the box end wrench, this is difficult even with two people.
The factory bar, with a large screwdriver are used to push the bar into position.
The procedure as per the factory manual is to start moving the bar with the box end wrench so the 1/2 " thick steel tool can engage the lower bend in the bar, the tool is hooked in a manner so the opening in the notch points to the centerline of the vehicle. This is to prevent the bar from slipping off the tool when pressure is applied with the large screwdriver to position the bar over the roller. The use of heavy welding gloves is recommended.
In the past I have used a deep 11mm (I think) socket and a long 3/8" extension, place it over the bar and push into position and use the long screwdriver to push onto the roller. You can't use the box end wrench here as it may be caught under the roller.
I also used a broken front torsion bar to use as the lever. Flattened the broken end of the TB on a grinder, also used a hand grinder to cut a notch in the bar about an inch from the end, used the box wrench to get it started and the screwdriver to push the bar onto the roller.
I prefer the brass rollers, they are smaller in diameter so they are easier to engage.
And they don't break.
I will take a picture of the bars I have and post them here.
As for the trunk spring, use a box end wrench 11mm I think works, longest handle you have. That gets it started, factory bar is used in conjunction with the box end wrench, this is difficult even with two people.
The factory bar, with a large screwdriver are used to push the bar into position.
The procedure as per the factory manual is to start moving the bar with the box end wrench so the 1/2 " thick steel tool can engage the lower bend in the bar, the tool is hooked in a manner so the opening in the notch points to the centerline of the vehicle. This is to prevent the bar from slipping off the tool when pressure is applied with the large screwdriver to position the bar over the roller. The use of heavy welding gloves is recommended.
In the past I have used a deep 11mm (I think) socket and a long 3/8" extension, place it over the bar and push into position and use the long screwdriver to push onto the roller. You can't use the box end wrench here as it may be caught under the roller.
I also used a broken front torsion bar to use as the lever. Flattened the broken end of the TB on a grinder, also used a hand grinder to cut a notch in the bar about an inch from the end, used the box wrench to get it started and the screwdriver to push the bar onto the roller.
I prefer the brass rollers, they are smaller in diameter so they are easier to engage.
And they don't break.
I will take a picture of the bars I have and post them here.
All of this witchcraft is why I converted to the J West trunk hinge plate.
FWIW - I don’t think I will run heater boxes either, just plain headers.
FWIW - I don’t think I will run heater boxes either, just plain headers.
I made this one. 
You are not too far from me. Swing by sometime and I can assist with these items...I have a few boxes of parts..
I am off Marriottsville road off I-70, just north of Ellicott City..
I am off Marriottsville road off I-70, just north of Ellicott City..
Thank you for the replies everyone. I just checked out someone else's thread on how to get this thing back on the roller and it looks like I may be able to accomplish it without losing any fingers!
Heat exchanges on my 3.0 and no worries whatsoever / Clean and as stated earlier, a breeze to get at the valves and other goodies underneath.
Hey, I’m the one who asks the dumb questions around here
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