took the trans out, pulled out three shims from behind the flywheel so that makes me feel alittle better already. Put the gauge on the flywheel minus the shims and seal, got a reading endplay of .038". Then i mic'd the shims at .035" coming to a grand total of .003" of total endplay w/ the shims in there. Ive heard a few opinions on this, anyone know if this number is acceptable for sure?

Then i checked out the pilot bearing that after i assembled everything i realized i hadnt checked and it is toasted! Could be my clutch dragging feel sitting at idle. Anyone know how to remove the old one most efficiently?

figured out why i had ground problems when i put the motor in, the damn strap on the trans just fell in half when i tried to pull it back off. Heres a pick of the pilot bearing, pretty screwed. The trans shaft looks ok though. Cant believe i didnt check this!

I think you want more like .004-.005 on the end play. I pushed the pilot bearing out with a socked and extension.

That pilot bearing is supposed to be in the flywheel...

pushed it out? how did you get behind it? in the flywheel?

hm, ill have to see what this bearing looks like.

In the 914 the pilot bearing is in the flywheel. In the 411 it is in the crank because the flywheel is to thin. The 914 uses a ring of some sort in the crank. There is a felt seal between the bearing and the lock plate. I'd get the bearing, the seal, the plate, and new bolts to do the job correctly. Oh, and Loctite the bolts.

Did you replace the cup in the TO fork, and the plates on the TO bearing? All part of the job 'while you are in there'.

yeah i just ordered new bolts, the TO arm cup bushing, the bearing and the felt washer from pelican. Didnt get the slider plates though. I would like to get a new clutch and TO bearing too but thatll be later like this winter along w/ some other things.