I have a 6 engine that has been uprated to 2.2 with E cams,the temp gauge keeps edging the red part of the gauge ,I e been told by the guy who rebuilt the engine that I probably need another oil cooler,can you only have these fitted in the front boot space or are there other places in the engine bay that they can be fitted
Hope this makes sense
Thanks Brian

A couple guys have sucessfull fitted one at the trans under the car.

I plan on fitting one in the transmission area...with thermostatic fans.

I'll mount it and run aeroquip lines, see how it works and either go with higher quality lines (if it cools well) or go full front mount (if it doesn't cool well enough).
My car will be a street car.

Heck Henry at Supertec even mounted one in the engine lid and it worked just fine for the 2.7 it was on. This was on an original 914/6 chassis so the owner didn't want to cut any holes.

See this thread, lots of cool ideas:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=297973

Under what conditions are you seeing such temps ?
A 2.2 E should not need a front cooler.
I'd get a second opinion.
Determine that your gauge is correct and the engine is healthy

Summit racing and Amazon both carry this B&M kit that has the fan and thermostat built in. Fits nice in the rear next to the trans and lowered my temps significantly. I think it’s like $275 or so.

Click to view attachment

Lots of experience here on the board and I have worked at it too.

My experience with a 2.4 S motor is that under every day driving that you should find temps manageable without a second cooler. Long highway cruising and getting into it hard for sustained romps seem to be the most problem times. Even then you should be able to stay under 210 even on hot days. I made sure that my shroud was well sealed especially around the oil cooler and I also have the modified baffles.

I highly recommend that you check your timing. I think that retarding a few degrees off of the recommended max advance and running around 28 - 30 degrees makes a huge difference without materially effecting performance (especially with higher compression than stock). Lean mixtures can also contribute to hot running.

I do believe that the rear mounted coolers do help. I built one with extensive ducting and a thermostat control that kept me cool even at the track on fairly hot days. One problem is with over pressuring these coolers with cold oil. Having a warm up bypass is necessary if you want to run in the winter.

I think your options are
1) Check your systems carefully - make sure you are not running lean and that timing is "conservative" and that your cooling system (fan and shroud) is working well WITH NO AIR LEAKS.
2) If #1 helps, live with it.
3) If still marginal, try the under trunk cooler with a fan. I think it is worth about 15 degrees.

Good luck.

I think any additional cooler capacity should help, but I also wonder why you need one as a friend has a strong, modified 2.4 in his 911 and has driven coast to coast with no overheating issues. I’d also check your timing before spending money or see if there’s any other reason for the overheating first.

If you do decide on a cooler, Ben (mb911) has now reproduced beautiful 914GT oil lines to run to the front of the car to install a ducted front cooler.

Brian, a 2.2 should not need a remote oil cooler. We have successfully run sixes with as large as 2.4 without another oil cooler. 2.7 and up definately need one when installed in a six.
The problem with installing an oil cooler is that it cuts up the original car a bit, the best place to install where the factory did in the front trunk against the front panel. we have three factory cars here with that arrangement, all have 2.4 or larger engines

The ones installed under the trunk floor by the side of the transmission are not very effective as they are right in the midst of the hot exhaust and engine and transmission. If installed they all need an additional fan, more rig up for an original six

I would suspect that there is something wrong with the installation to run that hot

I have a 1.7 Reno car that has an external cooler. So far all indications are it works well. If you live somewhere hot, high, or spend time sitting still on the freeway, the aditional cooling and capacity are an adition margin of safety, as well as having an aditional filter.

This is where the temp gauge was yesterday with out side temp at 28 degrees (82 F),the motor has less than 1500 miles on a complete rebuild ,at the time of the pic being taken I had been sitting in traffic for about 10 mins ,before that the gauge was steady at about 5mm from the red
Is the temp to high for this engine
Click to view attachment

Another item to consider is oil temp sender and gauge mis match, that will cause them to read differently.

I have a chart somewhere that shows the matched versions.

Found it

Click to view attachment

Now we're talking.

Others already said may be a mis-match guage-to-sender. You should not need
another cooler if things are working properly. I have nearly the same motor.

The part number on my gauge is 914-641-101-10 that number doesn’t appear on the chart above ,the temperature sender is from my friends 6 are these 2 things compatiable or could this be the problem

Part number is close, should be equivalent, but this is what I have.
Click to view attachment

You can pull the sensor and check its part number, and/or just order the correct new one.

You should be running a 150C sender (300F) I would be inclined to replace it ,if you get no improvement take the gauge and sender to a auto electrician and have it checked/calibrated.
If the above is done you need then proceed with the following;
Check timing isn't over advanced,
Make sure the carbs aren't jetted lean,
Is the fan belt tight,
Is the air deflector on the back of the altenator in the correct position,
All spark plug seals and engine tin seals in place,
Is the thermostat operating correctly,
Has the heater system got the correct heater valves.
Do you have the correct valve clearances.
One or more of the above things can amount to your overheating,I would start with the timing and carbs first,you look to be running it the 120C+ range which rather hot...not something that is good for your engine.

My 2.4 S spec /6 HAS a front oil cooler; the needle hardly ever budges.

Just saying.....

I will run it on my 2.4 s spec.. Thats why I had these made..(50 sets)Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Those surely look beautiful! Another thought is to check the sender in boiling water to see where it reads on the gaug.

At standard pressure that is 100 degrees C or 212 F. No matter what! Assuming it is water only.

Plus check idle speed and as mentioned above, check your A/F ratio

If this is a conversion, did you remove the rain tray? You could go for the 'GT'
lid which is all mesh, it will get more cooling. I did an experiment and under
otherwise identical conditions, removing the stock lid entirely did drop the temps.

You can add the underbody flaps if they are not already there.

After all else is done, you could check that the cam timing is okay.

I like to put the aux oil cooler in the right rear quarter panel, in the same area as the oil tank (on the opposite side). It take a bit more head scratching, but it's a much simpler way to go, without running 20' of oil line, taking up front trunk space, or putting a cooler above the already warm exhaust.

I'm doing a major resto on a 6 and am using that location. I should be detailing this install in the next couple months.

I'll be keeping an eye out for that, sounds like a good idea...what engine sizes would that support?
2.7 RS+ spec?

Jim, I did the first one on a 3.0 and it worked fine, I never saw over 220 on a hot day in TN.

For this project I have the rear quarter panel off, so I'm going to try and see what's the largest one that will fit.

Had the timing set 29 degrees from 35 but that stil hasn’t made any real difference if any ,having the carbs rejetted neck week but can’t see that making any real difference .I did notice that the engine tin rubber doesn’t fit very well and there’s gaps ,would this make any real difference Click to view attachment
The engine was rebuilt by a very creditable Porsche mechanic so I don’t think it is any thing to do with the engine it must be something to do with the oil circulation any ideas what I could check next

The engine tin seals tend to shrink with age and go hard,yours aren't bad enough to cause your issue.
Have you checked your gauge/ sender to confirm you are actual overheating? I made a point of calibrating mine with other gauges and senders...got the same result,no point in have gauges if they are unknown or don't read correctly.
Have you tested your thermostat for correct operation,these don't fail often but can,you could well have limited oil flow through your oil cooler ,I checked mine as per a Pelican forum article.
Sometime ago 1 member on here had overheating issues because he had 4 cyl heater valves reason I mentioned it in a previous reply and I notice you have heat exchangers so these need to be right ones or modify them to work.

a must do before anything else; plus you can get the sender PN at the same time.

Lots of advice on the here for the OP's issues and he cross posts over to Pelican..that's fine with me but there is so many more guys done "6" conversions on here and he has supplied little or no info on his build,his engine builder is the right guy ?..,.but really people make mistakes,anyway rant over.

If you haven’t got anything helpful to say why say anything at all?!

Thank you

Brian

Are the ducts that take air from the cooling fan shroud down to your heat exchangers connected? When I first bought my 914-6 with a 2.3L it was running hot. I re-installed those 2 ducts to the heat exchangers and it helped a lot. Make sure the heater valves are also installed. Those exchangers need air moving through them or they become heat sinks. The driver's side H.E. is right under the oil cooler.

Oh ok trying to help ,you have dragged out the issue by not answering any questions put to you,I was merely passing on from my conversion and years of engineering experience .
Sorry I have upset you Brian.
Thank you ,as I said go well.