As I experienced a blown hose to my front oil cooler yesterday I'm now quite aware that just the little green oil pressure light isnt enough. I would like to add an audio warning aswell.

Has anyone done this? What parts did you use and how did you connect it?

Not a bad idea.
Run it off a separate circuit? Or use the same to trigger the audio?

Sorry to hear about the oil line. Hopefully no damage was done. How about a large red light under the dash that would grab your attention?

I'm thinking it should be triggered by the oil light circuit but maybe have a 30-60 second delay before it kicks in so you dont have to listen to it every time you turn on the ignition. Not quite sure how to build that yet tho.

Went through the same thing, the light just isn't that obvious and easy to miss while you're driving and paying attention to the road.

My "noise warning" came from the engine when it started running out of oil at which point i did look at the light and the 0 oil pressure on the gauge.

Probably too long, i'd say no more than 10 seconds.

Maybe something that scales up in loudness from 1 seconds to 20 seconds ...

If you can check out the circuit board in the gauge cluster of any year Water -cooled Vanagon, there is a small (low o-p) buzzer (located up at the top R corner on the p/c board. It has about 4 solder/ prongs that are easy to heat + seperate. Or just purchase the buzzer at the VW dealer. It actuates below approx 15 psi...signal sent off of a VW Vanagon (low) op sender (standard 1/8" npt).
I found this out when putting 911 engines (dry sump) into Vanagons (wet sump)...and the low op when the 911 engine is idling would start the Buzzer going
Marty

I found a kit for a timing module that is adjustable between one second and 60 hours. I might go pick one up and experiment a little with it.

https://www.velleman.eu/downloads/0/minikit...anual_mk188.pdf

I'm thinking I would use the "start with pause" for the earth side of the buzzer, then when the earth is enabled the light has gone out and the buzzer only triggers if the light comes on before the ignition is turned off.

As an alternative they do sell in your face warning lights for op. They also make flashing LEDs. Our central nervous system is wired to notice changing things and ignore constant inputs.

Here is a solution...

A VW/Audi chime relay will do the trick. They can be triggered by either ground circuits or 12v circuits. The one I have can process 3 or 4 Seperate signals and chime,
At present. I have my driving lights connected to the chime relay; so if I turn off the ignition and forget to switch off the light switch, the relay chimes
Part is listed as: Audi-VW 443-919-439-C (or A)
Relay Pin-Outs:
This is not vehicle specific, but I'm planning to replace the Central Processing Unit in my FC with modular components (pluggable relays and flashers) so that I don't have to shell out over $100 for a board that integrates the horn relay, alternator relay, chime and seat belt timer, nor $86 for a proprietary 7-pin flasher relay.

One of the building blocks is an Audi/VW 443-919-439-A chime relay bought used off eBay for $8 shipped. This is a self-contained unit with isolated ground and +12V inputs, two timed ground ouputs for a seat belt warning lamp and seat belt switch, and two different pitched tones. These units were used in the the 1990s Audi 80 and other models.

Pins 15, 85, 86, L and 31 are 6.3mm terminals while R, 58, RK and G are 2.8mm. Hella socket HL87123 is a 9-pin and a perfect fit.

Pin 31 is the relay's system ground. This pin must be grounded at all times for the relay's functions to work.

Pins R, 58, and 85 are +12V inputs, all isolated from each other. R is actually an input from the Audi's radio. Any of these pins run the chime only when pins 86 or TK are grounded.

Pin 15 is a +12V input that is also isolated from the other +12V inputs with one difference. When this input is energized, pins L and G go to ground for 10 seconds then disconnects. Only pin 15 has this feature, the others are chime-only.

Pin L is a timed ground output. It is used to hook up to the seat belt warning light. Pin G is another timed ground output, it connects to pin 86 if the seat belt switch is closed.

Pins 86 and TK are both ground inputs for the chime. They both emit a chime when any of the four +12V inputs are energized. However, pin 86 is higher pitched than TK. Like the +12V inputs, both are isolated from each other.

So, you can either use the unit's build in isolation to hook up your light switch, key-in switch, seat belt, etc using the Hella 9-pin relay socket, or use a conventional 5-pin relay socket and external diodes for your inputs. You can't really go wrong either way.

Since I already have the Hella 9-pin panelmount relay socket, I'd rather take advantage of the all the unit's built-in features than add additional components.

Since the seat-belt switch in an FC RX7 is actually tied to the seat belt light wire, I only need to use the L terminal. So, when all is said and done, only pins R and G will be unused. To ensure that the unit doesn't chime when the door is opened, I plan to use a DEI 528T timed relay inline between ign-switched power and Pin 15.

See the link below for the pin arrangement

http://www.rx7club.com/attachments/interio...in-out-rev2.jpg

I got the kit i linked above and a 90db buzzer today. Got the kit all soldered up but ran out of time. Will play more with it tomorrow and shoots some pictures.

I have a 90db buzzer for a handbrake warning plenty loud enough even where it is mounted under the drivers seat.
Jims info was very helpful,now got me thinking about this setup for my 2.2 six,my 89 Golf had this and it saved me an engine when the head gasket blew and filled the sump with coolant.

Click to view attachment

Here is how i'm thinking to solve it, please let me know if I've screwed up somewhere...

If you're tracking the car, it's hard to hear anything over the induction and exhaust...mine's so loud I wear earplugs....a buzzer would never register. I added a bright red warning light up high on the instrument cluster.....look for "shift light" to get an idea....

Well the buzzer is more of a beeper and a 90 dB beep is hard to miss.

I shot a quick video of the time delay circuit in operation and with the beeper active.
The first beep the speaker was aimed into the worktop so a bit muted.

https://youtu.be/AmapkGE_q4Q

What would you do when you hear the buzzer? Probably kill the engine, right?
So why not cut the ignition when the timer goes off?

Here is Holley's low oil pressure kill switch (it shuts off the electric fuel pump) along with their wiring diagram.

That's a valid point, though you have to be careful with implementation. Most engine controllers with low oil pressure shutoffs also have lateral acceleration (lateral g) feedback to make sure you don't kill your engine in the middle of a hard turn and loose control of the car.

I'll stick the the plain old beep, adding more complexity isnt my thing.

Ughhhh,...right now it feels like I should have stayed out of the garage entirely the last week and not touched the car. Following the blown oil hose and draining of the oil to check for sparkles and removal of all the rear to front oil hoses I was going to change the oil filter aswell.... Filter is on tight like a bugger (i have small hands so I cant grip is and loosen it without tools so I have one of those threearmed things that attach to a 3/8"' ratchet. Turning it as hard as I can and suddenly the filter twists...along with the sandwich adapter plate....which dents the #4 cylinder pushrod tube....



So tired of everything now....

Removing an oil filter from a Lycoming engine can be a bitch too. The heat makes the rubber seal bond to the metal. A little trick is to apply 100% silicone grease to both side of the seal then hand tighten. 100 hours later you can remove it by hand. https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Silicone-...ase+for+o-rings

I've never seen anything faster than an idiot light switch. You could add switches in several locations all on the same light.

I'd mount a light high in your field of view, I have a homemade version of a prolight in my type 4 conversion '67 bug.
It has come on heavy cornering if I'm a 1/2 quart down, so I know it's instant and bright.


https://www.autometer.com/pro-lite.html

Click to view attachment

Here's my newly created ding....I feel a wee bit stupid....

Does the pushrod tube need to be replaced you think?

I would never hear a buzzer
Road noise stereo noise. Etc

These lights work!
I have two of them
One for oil pressure and the 2nd for the alt/fan belt on a /6
(The fan belt is just as important as oil on a /6)

I know the lights work I just think they're ugly and I dont want them on my dash.

I'll give the siren a go first. If its not loud enough I'll have to think of something else but I'll probably just add one or two high intensity leds in the stock gauge cluster.

It doesn't look that badly dented. I think there's a lot of room in the tubes but I'm not an expert engine builder.

Thats my estimation too, I'll pull a tube from my spare engine after work and do some measurments. If I feel its too close I'll turn the engine over with the valve cover off to make sure the valve moves as it should.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VOjawtYuG_Y

Quick test video of my buzzer/beeper. My son is behind the camera manually grounding the oil lamp sensor to make it go off.