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mobymutt
Just gonna put the heads back on and run it!


QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Dec 28 2018, 11:03 AM) *

Haha nice.

Have you gone any deeper disassembling the motor or are you just going to put the heads back on and run it?

Pierre



QUOTE(mobymutt @ Dec 28 2018, 06:28 AM) *

Nice!

I'm probably close to your build price, and I have a rusty shell, and some crappy 1.7 I just bought off somebody. biggrin.gif


1970-1914
I picked up a nice set of doors today from Rich at 914 Werke - I was just really looking for a passenger door but I decided to update both for the newer style window regulators and crash bars. I can see the value in that as I was t boned in my 1971 years ago and it destroyed the side of the whole car - windshield out and the targa top went flying into the ditch.

Click to view attachment

And here is the 283 short block (- the camshaft).

Click to view attachment
Tdskip
QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Dec 27 2018, 11:51 AM) *

So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?

My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.

This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to …all that.

Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.

Costs so far:

Shell and parts purchased for $1800

Parts sold off:

Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250

Total cost for shell: $350
biggrin.gif

Parts bought:

Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250

All in cost so far: $2094

So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build. smilie_pokal.gif


Still to buy:

Rad and cooling parts - $750
Windshield - $250
Misc v8 parts including headers and exhaust tubing/muffler - $750
Carb or efi set-up - $800
Misc interior parts (carpet, door panel recovering etc) - $500
Paint supplies - $500

Still needed: $3550


Target total cost: $5650


I'll be quite happy if that number jumps up another $1000 or so with the upgrading of the front suspension and brakes. I kind of see that as a phase 2 project after the car is up and running. If I go regular headers and carb instead of the 180* headers and efi it will shave about $1000 off the total. Also I think I can do better than budgeted on the cooling system if the right deals come up.

I would have loved to have gone with a 911 6 motor of some sort but the price point even for a pos core motor and install parts would exceed my projected total mibudget easily and still would have needed rebuilding $$$$.


Wow, well done.

Maybe I need to put you in charge of my budgets.

Mild cam for street use is a VERY good idea.


1970-1914
Motor is apart - had a later 283 cast crank and not a forged one which was a bit of a disappointment.

Click to view attachment


The block is still the standard bore which is pretty good for a 55 yr old engine. Of course 7 of the 8 cylinders look like they would clean up well with just a honing.... the other cylinder may be too rusty sad.gif



Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
1970-1914
In other more exciting news I found a much better dash pad for the car piratenanner.gif


Click to view attachment



1970-1914
I will be taking the block in to get hot tanked and mag'd in the next couple of weeks. If decent it will be getting bored .030 over and new cam bearings pressed in.

The shop I am using has a great history of building winning circle track, race boat and drag motors here in Vancouver. It is going to be a fairly simple build with a factory forged 3" crank, scat rods and metric ring pistons. Cam wise I will likely leave that up to him - he is aware of what I want out of this motor.

I will be turning my focus back to the body and paint side of this project for a while.


1970-1914
Thanks to Bob Burton and Jim Kelly for getting me some v8 mount measurements.

I was able to whip up this engine mount bar - just have to bring it in to work to mill the holes at each end for the bolt holes. There will be pipe sections going through the holes vertically to provide the right height spacing.

Click to view attachment
1970-1914
And now with the bar milled precisely for the end pipes. They are not cut down to the correct height and welded yet. Thinking I will put the motor in the car before I finalize that.

Click to view attachment
djway
Could you share the measurements?
1970-1914
QUOTE(djway @ Feb 5 2019, 07:37 PM) *

Could you share the measurements?



I will post a drawing with all dimensions once I have it mounted in the car and ensure everything is correct.

Pierre
1970-1914
The block was dropped off at the engine shop and should be back from the hot tanking/magnafluxing process next week. If it checks out the next step is to get it machined as required and bored to .030”over in the cylinders.

The owner of the shop has a forged steel 283 crank that I will likely buy and replace my cast one with. He also has a set of very low hour small journal eagle forged rods that I will use. Cam is still up in the air as is piston choice. Either a replacement cast 30 over stock set or a more exotic custom cnc’d hyperuetectic set that uses modern thin rings like in the LS motors. Leaning toward the more exotic ones but I will have to see just how exotic the total bill will be.

1970-1914
I talked to the engine builder today - my block is back, clean and passed the magnafluxing. Time to get serious with my build decisions with regards to compression and cam choice.

Click to view attachment
1970-1914
Ok - slightly different route....

I found a really good deal on another 283 - already bored .040 over, new pistons, rods and a forged 3” crank. The cam in it was not what I want but otherwise a ready to go short block.

Click to view attachment
2mAn
Im loving the budget approach to this build. Tried and true methods and parts can yield good deals!...

Has anyone used the Small Block Ford (like a 289 or 302) in these? Curious what trans options are for that motor.

Sorry for the derail, just thinking out loud while watching the thread
djway
QUOTE(2mAn @ Jun 13 2019, 04:01 PM) *

Im loving the budget approach to this build. Tried and true methods and parts can yield good deals!...

Has anyone used the Small Block Ford (like a 289 or 302) in these? Curious what trans options are for that motor.

Sorry for the derail, just thinking out loud while watching the thread

Yes but they did a bad job 5.0 HO WTF.gif Click to view attachment
76-914
barf.gif
1970-1914
QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 14 2019, 07:22 AM) *

barf.gif



Agree - that is a very terrible install..... barf.gif
2mAn
wow... easy to change the belt though lol-2.gif

QUOTE(1970-1914 @ Dec 27 2018, 09:51 AM) *

So as the " low-buck v8 outlaw" thread title says suggests... this car is being built on a very low budget and will be a V8. If you have read much before this post most of what is going to happen with this build has been detailed.... so what does this low budget look like and how am I doing?

My goal is to be all built and painted with +/- 250hp for around $5500-$6000.

This is only vaguely possible because the shell purchase was such a ridiculously good deal and I will be doing the remaining fab work, bodywork, paint and assembly myself. Quite honestly that is all the fun stuff for me anyway so looking forward to all that.

Starting with a shell that was media blasted, all rust work done, chassis reinforcements welded in, epoxy primed and the complete underneath painted is a really really big head start in time and money.

Costs so far:

Shell and parts purchased for $1800

Parts sold off:

Riviera wheels - $200
Stock 1.7 - $700
Misc efi parts - $200
Fender lip cut offs - $100
Stock steering wheel - $250

Total cost for shell: $350
biggrin.gif

Parts bought:

Chrome cookie cutter rims - $500 then decided 6" wide was too skinny for the front and re-sold for $700. Bought second painted black set with tires for $250 so current wheels in total were $50.
VB adapter, flywheel, pressure plate and disc - $130
Power pack heads - $50
Intake and HEI distributor - $30
283 Shortblock - $200
2 new 914rubber bumper tops black Friday deal - $470
Front and rear stock used valences - $100
Dash frame and gauges (missing when i bought the shell) - $150
Heater control - $50
Wiper motor and arms - $30
Momo wheel and Luisi early adapter - $150
5 bolt rear conversion (new discs, redrilled early hubs, new wheel bearings and 20mm spacers) $350
Front 5 bolt adapters - for now - $90
Flared FG rockers - $250

All in cost so far: $2094

So right now I have a mostly complete rust free V8 914 for $2100 which I think is a pretty great place to be at this point in the build. smilie_pokal.gif

...


Target total cost: $5650




Target cost is about what Id like to have into mine... when it finally happens. Looks like you're doing well so far
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