Depends which one. engine was hooked to a VW 020 trans that had the engine turning 2641 at 100 kph (about 62 mph). This is a 1.9 Diesel mechanical fuel injection. Wasn't sold in the US. With the small turbo it's making lots of boost by 2000 rpm. Lots of torque, was always going to put together a trans with a taller final drive (3.67 instead of 3.94) with a big overdrive to drop the rpm at highway speeds but never got around to it. And the 914 weighs a lot less than the jetta... Jetta is about 2500 pounds.
I've gone with a little bigger turbo that's more efficient and expect to have to rev a little higher to get good boost, but I still think there's lots of torque for more gear. the earlier smaller engines (1.5, 1.6 with or without turbos) don't have as much torque.

That seems like a normal aircooled range. The diesel revs high for a watercooled, and normal to low for an aircooled

IF my speedo and tach are right in the 914, then it turns about 2800 at 60 mph. Not saying it's correct mind you. It's all I've got to go by.
The Jetta was originally a gas 1.8 (same block as the diesel pretty much) and was geared to turn about 2900 at 100 k when I got it. Reving too high in my opinion for the diesel. That's why I went with the trans that I already had on the Diesel when I put the car together.

double post...

re:position...

RH has trans blocks that move the drivetrain back 1.5" and down 3/4" to fit the SBC. With my VQ30 swap I took 2 pairs, moved the drivetrain forward that 1.5" and down 1.5" so the crap on the back of the motor would clear the truck wall. Oil pan is level with the floor pan and still use the crossbar mounts.

Is there a specific year group of the trannys that will bolt right up to the ALH? I'd assume 99-05 or so? A model #?

Have a friend who's in the Netherlands right now, I've informed him that I'm in search of one...

TIA

Engine is mounted, working on trying to put a rad in the engine compartment. I have one I can get in, not sure it's big enough though with the airflow it will get where it will be. Has a fan on it though.

Made a new crossmember to mount the front of the engine, bolted it to the stock location. Used a VW mount on the right side of the motor, we'll see if I need to add one on the left side after I get it running. VW mounts them at 3 points, not 4. Going to try it and see what happens. Sitting pretty nice at the moment but no torque on it. yet... Not sure if I can get away without bridging over the gearshift rod either. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Open to thoughts from those that have done other swaps...

What wall thickness is the crossbar?

What I don't like, is the bar is notched, and also appears to be bent in the same location. That is the weakest point of that bar. That and the side mount of the engine which would be the rear on the VW is an over hang or fulcrum for the torque to twist that mount.

Make the shifter area a hole and add a section above it and triangulate that area to make it stronger.

Do something, what I am not sure to pickup the rear (side) engine mount better. VW drops that mount right into the lower suspension crossbar. It is a huge piece of metal that takes all that movement and transfers it directly to the wheels.

On Higher HP installs you have to change the factory mount otherwise you get wheel hop as everything fights for grip and to apply the forces induced by the torque wishing to move the entire assembly.

You could also reduce this tendency by using a chain to limit the transfer of torque in the rotational axis. From the drivers side of the frame to the drives side of the engine. Oh and I mean chain, like you want Kerberos to be restrained by when you stumble up the gates he is guarding. You do not want to deal with a 3 headed dog breaking his chain and chasing you across the regions unless your the bait to get others past the gate.

This would be the one install where a cradle might be a great idea to help keep all these forces in check.

What does your side mounts look like from the bar to the chassis? Solid, or stock 914-4 mounts installed back in the 70s?

Since your using the VW mounts in your systems I would swap out to solid mounts on the outboard side. Make these ridged as hell, I mean solid. Steel on steel on steel with new grade 8 or 8.8 hardware or better. Do not skimp on this one area, and you will be happy. Skimping on this area will lead to great deals of pain and frustration.

Didn't want to notch the bar, but had to in order to get enough rotation on the shifter to get to all the gears. Already seriously considering a bridge over the cutout. It is boxed in already. Bar is a piece of heavy wall 1 by 2 tubing, bent a total of 2 inches out of line on the horizontal, no bend on the vertical. Bent on a press, 2 bends centred on 20 inches each with about 5/8" deflection give or take. Had to bend for clearance or cut and weld. Mounts to body are solid, which is the way the car was when I bought it with the 2 l engine. Hardware is grade 10... The mount I used is complete including the part that bolts to the crossmember in the mark 2. It bolts to 2 upright pieces, gusseted solid between them, welded to a plate that's welded to the bar. said plate is gusseted underneath to the bar too. I'm not at all concerned about this mount except that it's so far off center. I am concerned that there might be too much movement when torque is applied.
Trans mounts on the back are some form of solid Delrin with aluminum I believe, also the way I bought the car.
3rd mount on this engine in the stock location would have been at the back of the block, haven't figured out a good way to do that. Have thought about another mount on the left side at the front using the power steering mount casting, still thinking. Thought about a chain on the left already, I've seen it before on big motors in little cars. This one isn't THAT big an engine but it does make good torque.
Appreciate the input! Backed up all the things I've been thinking and trying to solve.

Not the best picture but shows the construction of the mount. For those not familiar with old VW water cooled, there's a big rubber donut in that goes in the opening with a bolt through the middle. Plate on top of the donut has 3 bolts that tie it to the casting off the engine.

You need a drivers side engine mount. No doubt about it.

You can hard mount the crossbar to the engine and use 911 engine sport mounts at the body. I'll see if I have a clear pic of my setup.

Click to view attachment

Can't see it behind the exhaust but the tube is vertical with a 3" gusset. Tube is 1.5" thick wall and plates are iirc 3/16". It's 20-30 lbs beefy or at least it feels like it. Bolts to the factory engine mounts.

Thanks, looking forward to seeing it. I think we'll use what we've got short term with another mount on the other side, but may build something else in the long run. soft mounts at the bar to the body makes a lot of sense to me.

Agreed with reinforcing your crossbar where the notch is. The first version of my fabricated mount/crossbar for a 911 engine in a /4 chassis broke in the middle due to flexing. Fixed by triangulating in my case.

Cool project, by the way!

Thanks. Next issue:
Rad should be mounted by the end of the day. Honda civic rad and fan of unknown vintage is going in beside the motor driver's side. According to Kennedy's sheet it should be big enough. It will work to try, if it's not big enough I'll have to go custom to keep the rad in this location.
VW inline 4 cooling system of this vintage has an overflow bottle that plumbs into the system 2 ways . Bottom of the bottle has a fitting that hooks to the heater hose lines. Pressure cap is on the bottle and is the fill point for the system. It also has a small fitting on the top of the bottle that allows a small flow, I think it's an easy way for the sytem to bleed itself among other things. I've seen the line to the top of the bottle come from 3 different places depending on the year of the car.
1) out of the top of the rad
2) part of the upper rad hose molded in
3) out of the fitting on the front of the engine that feeds the top rad hose. This is the one I'm set up with.

Thermostat is at water pump (lower rad hose at engine)

I have a bottle out of the same type of car the engine came from, not finding a good spot to mount it. Should be the high point in the system...
May have to put it in the trunk but trying to keep everything in the engine bay.
Any suggestions? Need a pressurized reservoir with a heater hose fitting on the bottom and a small hose on top.
MAY try to use a standard overflow bottle out of something if I can find one to fit, and take a rad hose off to fill the engine or put in a bleed somewhere on the top rad hose if I have to. The Honda rad does have a pressure cap.

subscribed!

Honda rad installed. Lower rad hose from mk 2 jetta is a direct fit. Upper hose is going to have to be a cut and add a solid piece in the middle deal... having to make a custom piece for a heater hose hookup on the back of the head, not enough room for a stock part. Going without heat for the moment but want to install a heat/defrost box later. Came up with a cone type K&N filter at the Bothwell car show (huge 1 day show about 2 miles from my house) that I made fit with some stainless pipe and a rubber elbow. Need to add a support brace to make sure it stays put. Still need fuel lines, wiring, and exhaust to make it runnable. Would like to run it at the autocross this weekend but don't think I'm going to make it.

I had visions of a watercooled VW motor install... Rad could be mounted on one side of the engine bay, and an intercooler on the other... with your metal sculpted sides, the scoops from a Boxster may fit like they were meant to be there

You were right, at least the main part of the shell is the black car. Took the seats and backpad out so we could do a small repair on the hinge mounts for the engine bay door... car was black. Both doors and part of the front at least off the blue car. that must have been scary to have the 360 running right beside you looking at the size of the hole in the firewall!

No was joking really this box had been abused,no guestion about it ,was told it was fine by the PO and was pissed of just for the hassle of changing it as I payed little for it,my son drove the car after fitting and said it was shifting ok but made a "strange noise",turned out the crownwheel was on the way to migrating out the bottom of the gearbox,after years of working on Golfs this was the first case of breaking diff rivets I had come across.
Good luck with what you are doing,I like it when people think out of the square,will be following your progress .

I did buy one VW with an 020 that had a gear coming through the case.... but it was an original tranny in a car that had 450,000 kms on it. I can live with that. I think the 901 should be at least as strong as the 020. Besides, I have 2 spares!

Update: Rad is now hooked top and bottom, waiting on a neighbour (millwright/machinist) to finish making me a custom water outlet for the back of the head so we can get it hooke up without more body surgery. All that's left after that is fuel, wiring, and a trip to the exhaust shop. Pipe off the turbo is straight up for now just to keep the engine bay clean for the trip to the muffler shop.

Your not going with a trash can stack poking out the engine bay. All the kids are doing it now with their diesel Pickumuptrucks.

In reality your closing in on this, I sure would not let a neighbor slow me down, I would be wiring, adding fuel, and might even just tack a system together and take it to the shop to have one made.

Oh hell who am I kidding I would break out the MIG and TIG and get it done.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
Rad in, custom water outlet from back of head for space...
Working on fuel today. removing electric pump from under the tank. the injection pump has it's own vane pump in the front for a primary pump. Wouldn't hurt to leave the electric, but it would run constantly instead of shutting off because the injection pump bypasses excess fuel back to the tank. Would make priming the system really easy but I don't want to listen to it.
The exhaust is straight up just until I get to the muffler shop.

No shit... Well would you look at THAT!!

Nice!

Lots to do yet.... Need some fuel line. Nothing open close today, nothing tomorrow anywhere here. For now using a big inline filter under the tank. Wanted to use the mk 2 diesel filter setup and still might down the road, but it will require some more fabrication and I want to get this up and running. Need to hook a return line back up to the tank. The hard line from front to back is still there but the flex line at the front isn't. Got the upholstery out so we can do a little repair to the hinge for the engine bay door without starting a fire... Marc did have a pretty big hole cut in the firewall didn't he! Click to view attachment

YES! Straight up chrome stack with a flapper on it. Don't complicate things with an exhaust out the back.

He did. I wasn’t lying when I said that the crank pulley was an inch from my elbow when he had the 360 in there. Super dangerous...no loose clothing!

And the technical term is a rain cap.

Well.... My kid and I have talked about going straight up, but just as a joke. Probably black with a rain cap for that farmer look.... What's there now is part of a factory pipe for a '93 golf just flipped upside down. Not hard to make this engine smoke like a pulling tractor, just have to spend a few minutes adjusting fuel delivery. I will take a video of it running this way before it goes to the exhaust shop just for grins and giggles.
Initial plan for the exhaust is just a straight pipe out the back. A turbo makes a pretty fair muffler all on it's own. This engine is quieter with no muffler than the 2L was with a muffler by a long shot. If I don't like it there's lots of room to hang a muffler across the back of the car.... maybe like something off an old Camaro with two exhaust outlets just to confuse everyone.

Really impressed with the conversion, it seems to fit so well in the bay. I'm curious to see how your radiator setup works.

Will the engine cover fit in there? It's not that important, it's kinda big, but would serve to really tidy up the install.

Can't wait to see how this all works out for you, great build.

I think there's a little misunderstanding about what engine this is.
This is an AAZ 1.9 indirect injection diesel that was never sold in the states as far as I know. Sold for about 5 years in Canada ending in '98. no computer control, straight mechanical fuel injection. One wire on a fuel shutoff solenoid to make it run. NOT the TDI that they sold a little later here and in the US. This engine came as you see it here, no cover.
Not sure if the cover would fit the engine but probably. Engine shares SOME parts with the later TDI. I like it open and easy to get at everything anyway!

Road block....
Hooking fuel lines. No return line with previous carbureted 2 litre.
removed electric pump under the tank, direct connect from tank to the line to the back of the car.
Went to hook the return line to the other nipple on the bottom of the tank... plugged off.
Screwed it out of the tank. I don't think the return on the diesel should go into the bottom, it should probably dump in the top of the tank. I think I'll need to make a new return with a pipe all the way to the top of the tank. Anyone know what size rubbers I need to put this back together? Or is this even stock on these tanks? First time I've had the tank out.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Had it fired up today but the injection pump ran out of fuel before the system filled. Done for today. Need to get the wheels back on, set it on the ground, fill the tank to the top with diesel and bleed the system.
I have a throttle cable issue... I'd like to have a cable about a foot longer with about an inch more sticking out of the housing. It's hooked but only just. And it's starting to fray... Anyone this side of the border know a good source for cables? And is there a stock cable for something else that fits my wants?? Or am I looking at a custom cable?
The other option is to blacksmith my cable mounting point and/or use the end of the Jetta cable hooked to the Porsche cable.... messy.Click to view attachment

Terrycable will make you one. I had one made a foot longer than stock. Just give them a call and tell them what you want. I think it's (800) 854-4691.

Thanks but hoping to find something this side of the border... and close. Dealing with Canada customs is just aggravating. London/Windsor/Sarnia area if possible. Will call them if I don't find anything close though!

IT'S ALIVE!!

https://youtu.be/6BwvBVNTJbQ

Cool...but we need something longer than six seconds!!

Give me a day or two. Ran it for 20 minutes or so, didn't get hot. Did find an oil leak, apparently I didn't screw the oil pressure sensor in the back of the head tight enough. Oil pressure light works, stock temp gauge hooked to VW sender in water system shows jus over 1/2 when I measured 165 or so on the head. All good! Need to do some garage cleanup and put the trunk lid back on, seats back in... Needs to get pulled outside, washed, and a proper test drive as soon as that happens. Want to get it to the exhaust shop later this week and get rid of the stack..... but my kid just wants to put a 3 inch pipe straight up with a rain cap.

I say rock the stack, just except it, and move on. Or have the exhaust shop plumb it as a cut out, and flip a switch and go out the stack.

I used to auto-x a MK3 TDI, and would have to tell the flag man to step back, because my launches where defiantly rolling coal.

Even heard the announcer the the onlookers, yes that car is a diesel, and yes that cloud is normal.

For the throttle, perhaps you could take inspiration from the 911 and 914-6, and fabricate a bellcrank linkage? You ought to be able to find a good place for the bellcrank, then a few rods and rod ends, and you can use the stock cable to run that...

--DD

Too much coal too.... Engine would already do that, but I think it's worse with the bigger turbo. Harder to spool.... Need to get that under control. Might wind up going back to the smaller turbo.

Maybe.... have to do some looking at it.

Had it out for a drive for 20 minutes or so, got a few issues left.

1)HAVE to do the throttle cable, it's turned so tight it's binding up. Added a return spring so it is drivable but not a permanent solution. Found a local supplier but I'm assuming I need exact measurements for him.... I can easily figure out how much to add but might need to pull the old cable for measurements... unless someone can tell me stock length of the housing and stock length of the cable? Thread size on the pedal end?

2) Going to wind up using the radiator fan more than I was hoping for, but it will work as is where is with the fan running. Honda civic rad and the fan that came with it doing the trick even with the bad placement.

3) Going for exhaust Thursday. Even straight up right behind the window the car is quieter than it was with the 4 into one off heater boxes that it came with. Probably going to try a straight pipe out the back to start with and see if I can live with it.

4) Need to plumb the crankcase vent somewhere.... spitting a little oil out. Hoping to find an old style filter to put on the end of the hose. Don't really want to plumb it into the air intake unless I have to. Not worried about an emissions test on this car here.

Pulls better than the air cooled motor did!

First time out at the autocross with the diesel. A little overfueled.... need to put the smaller turbo back on, too much lag.Click to view attachment
37C ambient temperature on the way home... (99F). Couldn't run past about 60 mph without the overflow on the rad starting to burp. Was running straight water to make sure I had no leaks. Going to switch to proper coolant but I'm assuming I need to at least go to a better fan. Anyone know something that is a direct swap on the 90's Honda civic rad that works better? I'm going to try a better fan before I try to put a bigger rad in. I like the way everything fits now.

Holy shit. I am experiencing simultaneous awe and hilarity. Very cool!

Thanks! I'm happy with the progress so far. More work to do yet though. Dropped the throttle cable off tonight at a custom place not far away... hoping they can make me a new one about a foot longer with a different end at the engine end of the cable. Picked up an adaptor to hook the diesel's alternator up to run the factory tach, should help with autocrossing. I know the engine pretty well from putting a lot of miles on it in another car, but it sounds different in this car and with a different turbo. Guessing too much at rpms.

lots of Civic Rads that are of "better" quality by nature, but they might not be the best quality by manufacturing process.

So I would just look for an All Aluminum Radiator that fits the donor vehicle your radiator came from.

Something like this

But then you can also find them on Ebay and Amazon all day long, just from a less know manufacturer.

Got the tach working tonight with the help of an adaptor box from Dakota digital. takes signal from the w terminal on the alternator and converts it to run the 4 cyl VDO gas tach. Adjustable.... I think it's set close. Need to get it back out ont he road to check. Used to show about 2800 at 60 mph so I'm just going to adjust until it matches that. Don't know if 60 on the guage is actually 60... but it will be close enough to suit me.

Didn't think it was working at first... but then I remembered that standard practice in the old jetta used to be to blip the throttle once to make the alternator kick in. Problem solved!
Now waiting for a throttle cable. MIGHT have it back out this weekend.

Should update this thread. Got the throttle cable, works like acharm. Did a few more autocross events last fall. Parked this year so far. trying to get ready for the big event at Mosport... we'll see.