beyond frustrated- i am going to have to source a replacement assembly with a good adjuster- anyone have one send my way cheap or free??

spent the better part of the last 4 hours trying to get the doors done. unable to complete because the drivers door bottom adjuster nut that is attached to the front track that also holds the triangle window was rusted bad and snapped off- second was , before that happened being unable to get triangle glass seal in(too long) and down enough so could not get door to shut.

pulled it all back out and now i cant decide how to proceed!

i know that 914rubber makes almost all seals a bit on the tight and long side and i guess thats better than being short, BUT this front side of the triangle window seal is damn near impossible to get the front edge down into the door and tight so it wont stick up and stop the door from shutting but its just too long and too tight- i foight with it for an hour, it won and i give up. i wish i had just left my old seals on and not changed them out they were ok and didnt leak- whats done is done i cant turn back time , but i dont know if i can modify the adjustor in some way with a different bolt to make it work for now- i need to get these doors done and the glass in.
-
prior to that i did get the new inner lock and latch mechanism in and the strike plates ans the door stay rebuilt on drivers side. also the new seals ans fuzzies- i will post all that on the other thread- my build thread.

if anyone has had experience with this type of issue i would appreciate some help or advice.
Dr. P.

Let me guess...factory seals?

Been where you are, and done that. Takes a LOT of fiddling to get things to fit...and some creativity too.

well if thr door shuts i can drive it with out a window i guess.

they are 914rubber seals- got the whole kit, fuzzies, etc

I might have that nut/bolt. Lemme look. You can have it if I find it.

Oh boy. I had heard these were better than the factory rubber.

Although: I have a feeling that—no matter what rubber you use—a lot of it is patience, time, adjustments, and more. Did a dig, and this is the thread that helped me most:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2000174

Soapy water helped, too.

You just need this bolt/nut combo correct?

Click to view attachment

Might need a little PB Blaster to get it loose but it'll work. PM me your address if it's what you need.

Philip W....I feel (and know) your frustration.

I too spent many hours trying to get these 914Rubber triangle rubber seals into place without much luck.
I was ready to kill something for sure.
Wasted many hours on something that should be fairly straightforward.

I agree that the seals are too long to fit into the front part of the slot where they reside.
I actually had some success with one side with modifying the triangle seal for better fitment.
It required my wife's sharpest kitchen knife and some wire cutters.
The forward part of the seal that is supposed to fit into the same groove as the inner door seal needs a lot of trimming for it lay in there correctly.

I'll try to put some pics tomorrow on what I did and why....
I'm going at this a bit differently in fitting the rubber seal first, then coming in with the long window guide and quarter window next.
I'm not trying to put the guide, window and seal into the door as a unit due to the fitment issues with the seal.

Stay tuned and I'll post some more tomorrow.

This is my last big task for the reassembly....getting these dang windows and doors put together.
Ugh....

Yes...did a thread on this. It is a VERY sequence dependent installation. My experience was that the mold needed relief for the metal tab where it fit....friction fit....needed to be cut. The otjer very important issue is that the adjustment screw in question needs to be installed in its correct postion as you push the seal down....towards the front of the car. It is a pain in the ass and requires a lot of patience and almost three hands.

that would be great! i would like to see how you went about it. i was just getting to the point i didnt have any patients left- oh, i mean patience left- i was getting so close ans then not get the stupid thing to sid down enough so the door could shut was the end - i went to a movie with my daughter to clean my head .
you see i really thought after i did all the front fuel lines and prep for the gas tank to go in in the morning, i would have bet that in maybe 2 hours id have them both in . geez .
and im sitting here trying to get theis ready for Okteenerfest, and the next month will go by too fast. , i am waiting on parts and i cant move forward with out them,
like my
alternator harness! not here,( and i started the group buy and was #1 in line so why the heck... and the targa trim pieces, bumper tops, bla bla- then the stupid nut snaps!!!! - i know i can go get a bolt of the proper length, and bolt it in place but it wont be adjustable , or not easily anyway so do i wait to get a whole new assembly or just wing it? And it seem i cant adjust the door striker so that the door can shut tighter. passanger sode is perfect, i dont know but can you move back side that the strike plate bolts to so that the door can go in further ?? yikes , so many issues.
i look forward to seeing how you made this work- tomorrow is another day!

yes, but the back side nut is attached to the track- i dont think the bracket comes off it is riveted to the track, i bent the bracket even after pb blaster! then it cam off the track and the screw was still stuck in the nut! i really messed it up- i think i will need a while new track that has a good bracket and nut/screw thats not rusted on tight- i suppose theis is a NLA part?

Last I checked, the tracks were plentiful at places like EASY. Trick was finding a good candidate without deep scratches and sending it to be redone in proper ano-brite finish (polished then clear anodized).

I would think there is some way to get the bolt/stud off? Those are out there for sure...

Has Matt followed up with you. He did the install and still is working on the install guide, but has the steps laid out. Yes, the install needs to be done in a certain order, and there are some techniques to installing that help. This is not a easy install, that's why most body shops just tape around them if you let them.

Let me know if I need to reach out to him, but I thought he might already be on this.
Mark

Phil...I got my GB harness in last week. If you are coming close by my way any time soon I'll give you mine and you can have yours shipped to me (or give it to me later when it comes in). I won't be using it for a while.

I did some video as I installed it in my car. I am working on getting it edited so it is watchable. I need to go work on my car now but will try and get it done tonight for you

great, thanks!

That triangle seal was difficult indeed. Started with the drivers side and then stopped when it came to the passengers side. Not worth it. Had to do a lot of extra cutting of the rubber, finally got the door to close properly. Do need 3 hands to make it work but somehow I did it with only 2 hands. It seemed like the grove the glass slides into at the bottom was not deep enough and the glass is pushing the whole arrangement deeper into the door than it should. Not going to try and fix it unless something pops loose. There is a lot of pressure on that triangle glass right now with the door closed.

I'd have to agree with a lot of what is said here.

The 914Rubber piece does not fit all that well....especially at the front end where it fits both into the long narrow rectangular channel and where it also goes into the groove for the inner door seal.

See pic below.

The arrows where I labeled 1 and 2 are the part of the seal that goes down into the long narrow rectangular channel....yes?
This section of the seal is a bit too long to fit into this channel.
So I took a very sharp kitchen knife and made a short cut of approx. 1/8 - 1/4" along where you see arrow 3.
This allowed the front part of this seal to go into the door more and allowing the seal to fit flush.

The 2nd issue is the area I have circled with a 4.
This is the very front part of the seal that is supposed to go into the same groove that the inner door seal also sits.
If fact they will both butt up against each other flush if you've cut the inner door seal at the right place.
This part of the 914Rubber seal needs a lot of trimming to get it to fit into this groove.
I used a combination of wire snippers and again the very sharp kitchen knife to slowly whittle this leading edge into the correct shape to nicely fit into the groove.

Once you've got both of these above mods complete, you'll have a chance at getting this 914Rubber window seal into place.

Click to view attachment

Here's another pic/view of the offending area of the 914Rubber seal that needs to be whittled down in order to fit into the same groove as the inner door seal.

Click to view attachment

This view shows again where the leading edge of the 914Rubber window seal fits into the same groove as the inner door channel.
I have them nicely butting up against each other....vital if you're going to keep the water out.

You can also see how nicely the remainder of the seal fits down into the long narrow rectangular door channel all the way back to the aluminum window guide.

Click to view attachment

Side view of the seal installation.
Again, it is sitting down into the slot very nicely after making the above mods to the seal.

One thing to note where the arrow is pointing.
It is said that this 914Rubber seal is supposed to be wider here thus sealing better.
In my estimation, not really all that much.
It is still too thin here to really seal all that well.
I may slide another thin piece of rubber in here to fill out the space a bit better.
You'll know what I mean when you get to this point.

As opposed to trying to install the seal, window and window guide as one unit, I took a different tack.

I installed the seal first, making sure it was correctly seated along the slot where it resides as well as at the very front that fits into the inner door seal groove.
Next I came with the aluminum window guide, while holding the seal in it's place.
You can attach the upper and lower bolts for the window guide at this point.
Lastly I came in what the window.
Front nose first followed by sliding the window down into the groove in the seal.
I used lots of silicon lube spray for this last part.
At the end, I installed the hard rubber piece that goes at the very top of the window guide and that holds the window down into place.
This worked for me on the driver's side window.
I'll be doing the passenger side likely tomorrow.
Will keep you posted on any issues or "ah-ha's" if I get them.

One note: I also used a small piece of wood to push the seal down into the door. I wouldn't use anything too sharp like a screwdriver, etc to do this.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I have this driver's side frame if you need it. Unfortunately I'm on the left coast.

-Carl

Guys on the width of the seal, you are comparing it to used seals that have been compressed for years. We actually used unused seals to model after. These seals are made to compress.

The big issue is that these seals are not easy to install, not even the factory ones. A major difference we made in this seal was the slot. We choose not to add it because the windows we had looked at (early ones specifically) showed that water did enter the door through this gap.

In replacing this seal the alignment of the window is completely reset, it will require some re tweaking to make close correctly.

Here is a link to the adjustment portion that will probably be of use to you -

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2000174

Mark,

that is a great point. I want to say thanks for reaching out to me over the weekend and having the link sent for the new vids. I don't want you to think that i thought it was a badly made product or that i was throwing you under the bus so to speak here. More than anything i just hit a frustration point with the whole thing and needed to vent. I think a big issue for me was the adjustment nut and bolt being rusted into place. not being able to take that off made it impossible to get it into place in the bottom so the upper rubber fitment became irrelevant, because with out removing that or screwing it in all the way its too long to get it down and in.

I think once i get that fixed, i should be able to get ths another try, with having watched the video i am going to follow that and will report back here again to update the progress. I have a new adjustor bracket , nut and bolt coming from another member, so i will let you know in a few days - in the mean time i went to do the other side and same issue, so today it is soaking in PB blaster and i hope i can break it loose and try the install tonight.

Phil

Carl,

Thanks for the offer, i will let you know if i am able to use mine with a new nut and braket that is being sent. If that does not work, i will be glad to pay you for the shipping!!

Phil

thanks for sharing this, looks like there is more than one way to skin a cat- a
and btw that really looks super!!!

maybe this should be a Tech Session #5 at Okteenerfest?

Actually its on the schedule as door rebuild but the process is longer than an hour, so not sure how much we can compress into that short of a period of time. But I agree that this is a very technical install in that there is a certain order of operations as well as adjustments that need to be made after the fact.

And yes I have spill a few choice words doing mine, it is not easy, but when done you do get a sense of accomplishment.

i had fun watching the video because even trying to put plastic wrap on the window and wrap it can be a challenge!

update:
well last night I decided I would try the passenger side since I had that window installed into the seal and on the rail, and I was able to get the adjustment screw loose.

Same issue with the seal base being too long to fit into the door and front side not being able to be squeezed down in all the way, but I lubed it up, made a very slight trim to the bottom front as instructed by Mr. Matt and Mr. Mark.

so once the track or frame bottom was in far enough to put the top screw in, and then the adjustment screw also at the bottom was in its hole, it looked like I had it in place and would work, but upon trying to shut the door, the front edge of the window and the seal on the car just don't line up. Huge gap at the top, and not the in or out adjustment that you would expect and be able to adjust with the screw at the bottom but rather the top edge is back too far, and the front is about a 1/4" too far forward and cant shut the door. now with out the window or seal the door alignment itself is perfect so that is not the issue., somehow the triangle and seal do not set back at the base, far enough back. and the frame somehow needs to angle more forward about a quarter inch at the top. but there isn't really an adjustment for that , with the 2 screws in place it should line up, so any ideas??
I don't have a pic sorry, I gave up as I was getting eaten by mosquitoes ,
just had had it again. 1

I may just put the windows, frames and seals in my trunk and bring them to Okeenerfest , Matt, maybe you can use my car as the sample for installation.
I have less than a month to try and get my gas tank, motor and whole interior including the sail vinyl etc all installed!! and I don't think this window stuff is going to get done. If the car runs and drives at least I can bring it, it might be with out windows.

I am going to have to recheck the triangle glass groove depth. I had not really considered that as an issue. on my car the whole bottom of the seal is too long to set into the door groove.
I re-tried the passenger side last night and did it 2 different ways, no luck, but closer in that when I pulled the glass out, and got the vertical frame lined up then adjusted in to proper place where the top angle cap was up into the frame seal properly with door closed, I then put the seal in with out the glass, but still too tight in front even with out any glass. so I did a slight trimming of that front bottom leading edge just as suggested by Mark and Matt to get this to sit donw into the channel and I am closer to getting this in, the door actually shut, but this is all with out the triangle glass not in the seal. I tried to slide the glass into the seal with out moving the frame out since it was lined up perfectly now, but that was not working either!!

- I will probably leave the frame in place for now, I might end up driving the car up with out the triangle glass, I have to get this motor in the car and gas lines hooked up this weekend and try and get the car running, or it will not be there- I could be that guy that shows up in the Boxster!
--- I hope not. - 3 weeks from today right?? shit I don't know how that is going to happen.

Have you tried the URO vent glass seals to compare? After all of this frustration, it is just not worth continuing to fool with a seal that is hard to fit. We often try several different brands before finding one that works best. Right now there are factory, URO and 914 rubber.
Fitting the seals and getting the doors and windows to close properly and not leak IS a hassle no doubt

George,
I have not tried another. I could get a factory one from our parts dept at local dealer, and I know you have the URO in stock as well, I am looking at getting their rear targa trim pieces. The windows came out smooth and the seals were in fairly good condition, I didn't really have a leak problem at that location, I should have left alone and reinstalled them as is but I cant go back now. I might just for comparison sake try and get one of the other brands to see where or if there is variation. This is the first timei have had any issue with a 914rubber seal.

You can try the URO seal, but if the top cap fits on, and the base is fully installed the window is at the proper height. How the window interacts with the door and top gap is an adjustment of the bar.
The only advantage / disadvantage the URO seal has is the hole that lets water into the door. You would not need to modify the tab to not have the hole.

what it looks like right now is when the window is in the seal ans installed in the track, its so tight and too wide and long so i cant get the front end and leading edge of the glass back down and back far enough to not hit that car seal, and then of course the door will not close,

To be honest this one had me swearing quite a bit too. The window in the front does tuck underneath however the back needs to rotate down so as long as the base of the seal is fully engaged into the door it should be a matter of the center of the track coming back just a little.
In other words adjustment for and aft

Happy to help. I am guessing that there may be a little adjustment left on the upper bolt on your rail. It is definitely a tight fit when they are new. I want to try and figure out exactly what your experiencing so I can try and address it in a final version of an installation video. I already have a few notes on things that I need to add to it. I appreciate anyone else's feedback too.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dg8pohr6s4o36jk/T...20edit.mp4?dl=0

See you at Okteenerfest

I know we need a tight fit to not allow water past the seal, so I know it hst to be snug. The fore /aft adjustment is minmal, not much room for adjustment at all on the upper small bolt. The lower can shift a bit which will cause a counter-effect on the upper end, and if you move that lower bolt down/back the pivot will move upper forward and the leading edge of triange slightly down, which I did do and that did help, in fact it was almost a perfect fit at that point- with out the window though lol!!
I am going to keep coming back to it but not until I get the motor in and car running, at that point I hope to have enough time to revisit this. Also I know these cars do vary a good bit due to the nature of manufacturing back in the day, so I am fully aware there will be differences in fit and finish from car to car.