I have not done many glue in windshields as most of my work is 911/912. I bought the butyl install stuff from 914rubber, just wondering if there is anything special to do?

Do you just evenly line the windshield channel with the material, install the spacer blocks and just put the windshield in place? Is it that simple? Leave it in the sun for a little bit?

Here is where I am at.

Mark, I'd have Ruffino do it.

He's done a million of them and he's fast. He uses the right size butyl too.

Ruffino Windsheilds (714) 292-5811

Looks good. You put all of the trim holders in place and set the pins. Line the inside edge of the butyl tape with the inside edge of the flange after using the primer. Prime the window as well. Don’t worry about excess as it will come right off with a razor blade. Put the placement spacers in place at the bottom of the window. Then, set the window in place. Works best with two but I did it by myself with two of those suction cup window tools. Then set the trim.

Trial fit the glass first to establish correct location. Extend masking tape in a straight line from the frame onto the glass in four or five locations. Cut the tape in a straight line parallel with the edge of the glass.
Use the tape as a guide to place the glass accurately.
Leave space between every clip and the edge of the glass to allow the trim to slip between the clip and the frame.
I just did it this week.
PM me....happy to help.

Not super easy, but definitely easier with a helper

This should help

Mark, thanks for posting that info. A few questions...

Are the setting blocks that you sell to be used instead of the 4mm wood spacers?

How many linear feet of butyl tape is enough to do both front windshield and back window?

Would a heat gun work to heat up the tape instead of the battery as suggested? (Not sure how they were managing that one?)

What is the point of the twist where the two ends meet?

I did mine outside in Sacramento in the summer. That IS a heat gun!

Rufino is your guy if you are in SoCal. He did Wayne's car about a month ago. (Fullerton)
Exceptional experience w quality results.

Oscar

he did mine as well as tons of others.

Lately in Sacramento you don't even need to be outside!

The original adhesive rope or tape the factory manual is talking about had a heating wire running through it. You would hook each end of the wire to a battery or battery charger to heat up the adhesive. Further down in the article they refer to new self adhesive tape which is the butyl tape we now use.

Yes the rubber blocks in 914rubber kit serve the same purpose as the wooden blocks at the base of the windshield.

Jim

with Roy.aka rgalla. Offer the glass up to the frame and mark as he mentioned but also do this. Check the distance from glass to metal at the 4 corners. If the frame is bent it will reveal itself now and you can easily pull the top back out to correct. People tend to grab the top of the drivers post when getting in/out and may have induced some warp. When you roll out the tape it will have a flat spot on 2 sides. If you can, keep the flats to the metal and glass sides. This just makes it a bit easier to mate up equally. If you don't it's not the end of the World. Once the glass is in place and lightly stuck look you can begin to seat it by firmly pressing across the top. bottom and sides of the glass. Do this in the hot sun and let the butyl tape reveal that it is in full contact as you move around the glass. Do not put force in a small area like the corners. I've over complicated and it is quite easy but take your time. Also, keep the glass on it's bottom or top edge when it's being stored or shipped. I laid one flat on the hood and it began to spider web with cracks 5 minutes later.

I keep the butyl in the fridge. This makes it easier to install as it is less sticky when cold. By the time I am about done installing it on the frame, it is beginning to get too tacky and sticks to your fingers.

good tip. thanks

we usually assemble the windshield chrome in one big rectangle on the blanketed hood of the car and with an assistant place it and clip into place

You will need 2 rolls for the front if you use the twist technique as shown, the rear is less than one roll, but sold as a "kit" that includes the 2 blocks.
-Mark

simple question

what size "tall") are the spacers used at bottom?

that manual picture above says 4mm, but that seems 'way to "short"

i just measured the old ones under my windscreen & they appear to be about 6mm +/_ , with "tapers" "up & outward"

and the all around glass edge to frame spacing seems to be 6.5-7.5mm +/_, maybe up to 9mm at top edges

- looks to me more like 6-8mm block needed under the glass to position it to be centered in the frame correctly

914Rubber pictures show tapered spacers & per telecon with Christopher says their setting block is 7cm long, 1/2cm deep (5mm), 1/4 cm "tall" or thick (2.5mm) -

- that would be 'way too thin to center my glass in the frame

i'm looking for a better option

The spacers are there only to provide isolation between the metal and glass should it shift. As you mentioned. I don't think the glass would drift that much, but it's a possibility.

per manual pics you posted

Click to view attachment

here's my installation a bunch of years back; no problems since that time.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=235156

The rubber stays the "spacers" in wood are removed.

My solution for the rubber blocks was the following.

I cut each block into about 3 sections giving me a total of 6 smaller length blocks.
Then I glued each block to the top of the moulding clip.
This gave a nice place to sit the windshield while allowing for the moulding to snap into place after the windshield was installed.

I think if you just put the blocks down into the pinch weld area without much thought that they will get in the way later when you try to install the moulding into the clips.

Click to view attachment

I would highly recommend using a butyl primer also.
You just paint this on the perimeter of the glass and the pinch weld area.
It leaves very "gummy" texture when dry and the butyl really adheres to you like you can't believe.
You can see the dried primer in the pic above.

Click to view attachment

When I re-sealed my back window recently I ordered the re-seal kit from 914Rubber but it seemed too wide for the back window so I went on amazon and bought these three items:
1. Goof Off FG705 for cleaning the old Butyl tape from pinch weld and window.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7J9VL...=UTF8&psc=1
2. Suction cup handle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5K7XL...=UTF8&psc=1
3. 3M Window Weld ¼”x15’ Butyl tape (buy kit because it is shipped in box)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4AN...=UTF8&psc=1
You can throw away the spacers that come with the 3M kit because they are way too big. I would have re-used my existing spacers except one of them was missing and the other stayed stuck to the pinch weld so I used the clips from the 914 rubber kit and they worked great. Used a bit of the Butyl on the spacers to keep them in place (use a very small and thin amount). There is debate on what is the proper size tape to use on the back window and after using the ¼” it has worked good for me. Other may like the larger sizes but I could tell once everything was apart that ¼” is the way to go. Good luck and let us know how it came out.

I agree, the tape I used for the back window is too thick, and the rear deck seal does not touch the window, after I get back from Okteenerfest I will pull this out and re do it with a smaller butyl cord. , way to big of gap at the bottom of window. But I don't have time to pull it out and re do it right now. -