Hi all. This is my first post on here. I have been given the interesting task of finishing a conversion that was started some 20years ago! On top of that the car has an 80's or 90's temperamental immobiliser fitted according to the owner. I am going to remove the immobiliser completely. The problems are the electrics.

Here are some of the problems I currently have:-
When marrying up the 14 pin connector of the engine loom to the relay board as per a diagram I was supplied with the car it doesn't make any sense. I removed the D+, D- and DF wires, fitted new terminals and connected them to the appropriate 3 pins on the relay board. I then moved the red wires pin (from the alternator) from pin 14 to pin 7. Pin 14 on the relay board doesn't exist and since putting it into pin 7 both the ignition light and the oil pressure light come on permanently on the dash, even when the ignition is off.

Someone has cut the black/purple wire at the distributor so it no longer goes to the dizzy and turned it into an earth to the engine block.

The relay board was also mounted 180degrees out so the engine loom 14 pin connector was plugged into the cars 14 pin connector block and vice versa, so I don't know if any damage has occurred to any components by a previous mechanic turning on the ignition.

The BHKZ unit has no power supply as the red wire for it just hangs out of the loom.

I can't find or don't know if I need the following components either that are in the diagram I have :- speed switch/relay. Thermostat time switch. Auxiliary starting relay and Control valve.

I have found plenty of info online about how to do the conversion and the parts required, but am struggling to find any information on the wiring side of the conversion.

Any help/advice is massively appreciated.
Thanks

aftermarket alarm setups are a PITA - you are right to get rid of it

not really much wire difference twixt prior -4 & -6 assuming your 2.4 is carb'd & has a oem distributor

- you just want to undo the dpo mess & put it back to oem wiring?

- could be mis-connected both under the dash & at the engine compartment

and/OR the dpo could have moved wires in the connectors from one position to another

just take your manual's wiring diagram and trace end-to-end on those wires & thru the connectors with an ohmeter to figure out what the dpo did

then undo it & put it back to the way your manual's 914 wiring diagram shows


if you don't have a real 914 wiring diagram or manual, get one quick

- if all you have is a smallish Haynes diagram - take it to the copy-shop & enlarge it to table-top size

A little more info would be helpful.

What year car?

What engine?

What induction?

Internal or externally regulated alternator?

Sorry, here is more info.

Car is a 72 914
Engine is a 72 or 73 2.4L with Bosch MFi
Induction looks like a standard set up, if thats what you're asking.
How do I know if the alternator is internally or externally regulated?
The ignition looks standard with a Bosch distributor which has points and a 6,500rpm rotor arm fitted.
The engine cover is painted yellow, but dont know if that has any significance at all.

Sorry, I’m no help on the wiring. I agree with LarryM, remove the immobilizer and try and return as much of the wiring to oem as you can, then move forward. Wiring diagrams will make you go blind, but they will be your best friend.

Quick google search brought up this thread from PP: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...ion-wiring.html

The yellow shroud indicates the motor is a 2.4T with mfi. A 1972 2.4E shroud would be green and a 2.4S shroud would be red.

after you sort out the correct oem 914 wiring all the way from dash to the relay plate plug,

then look at a 911 diagram to see if the pinouts & colors are same or different (likely) twixt your 914 & the 911 harness - (MFI 911 did not have that 914-type relay plate) - then trace each wire end-to-end to the correct 911 item

you have to figure out if the dpo ever updated that 2.4 alternator to an IR - given you say it's been dead for 15+ yrs, chances are it's an externally regulated type

on my old 911, the alternator control ("D") wires just went to a small 3-prong that plugged into the regulator, whilst the 12v battery wire hooked up at the starter solenoid to the main 12v cable

fwiw i'd just bypass that relay plate & direct wire the ign & charging

this may help
Click to view attachment

I think you should have an external regulator unless some has changed the altenator, sounds like you have an MFI motor ,they run nice but everthing in the system needs to be up to spec and expensive to sort if not ,the mechanical fuel pump comes to mind straight off.