The white wire from the ignition harness on my car is missing the spade connector and is wrapped in electrical tape and not connected to anything. Wire looks to have broken off at some point and is pretty short. According to my searches on this site and Bowlsby's, the white wire is supposed to go to the AAR valve. However, my AAR is hooked up directly to the positive post on the coil.

What badness would this cause?

BTW, I'm trying to chase down a hunting idle. AAR valve itself seems to be operating correctly (lots of suction when the car is cold, and none when warmed up). Next I'll be verifying that the TPS is set correctly.

I don't think this will cause an issue. The AAR and the fuel pump are normally on the same circuit.

Hook it up right and fogeddaboutit.

I was answering the question of how big an issue is this. I should and does work. Best advice is as Jess stated

Good to hear. Thanks!



I would love to, but it will require buying a new wiring harnesses and I don't have the funds at the moment.

Splice as much more wire as you need onto the white wire then crimp on a connector. Then plug it in.
Actually, scratch that. Unplug the AAR wire from the coil, take the connector that was plugged to the coil off of the wire, splice that end of that wire to the white wire. Done.

The hunting idle issue makes me think there's a vacuum leak. Gets too lean, hunts up, doesn't have the right fuel mixture, drops back down.

You may be able to solder a wire on the stub that is there, or cut the harness casing open to expose 1/2 in of wire to extend.

take it off the coil or anytime you have the switch on the aux air valve is getting power, and will eventually burn out as there is a toaster element inside of it. It also draws a lot of juice. We rebuild these all of the time, and they are just a fragile piece

Ok, I'm convinced. I'll see if I can get it connected correctly.
Thanks for the input everyone.

Actually, it hunts down and intermittently at that. But that doesn't mean there still couldn't be a vacuum leak somewhere.

The last things on my list to check:
intake runner boots
TPS
throttle body gasket
plenum

Is it true that the newer TPS isn't adjustable?

Found this posted in a thread somewhere:

Click to view attachment

Those are TPS, all are adjustable by rotating about the throttle shaft. See the slotted holes?

I've read and understand the procedure for calibration, just want to make sure it applies to both models. I have the 'newer' one. According to someone's previous post the newer one isn't adjustable. Just wanted to know if that was really true before I started futzing with it. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding the post.

What I'm asking is:
What's different about the two versions, what can be adjusted on each one, and is the method of adjustment (calibration) the same?

Go look at your TPS, its obvious what is adjustable. The TPS for a 1975 2.0L is different than the two shown.