Hi
This is my first "help" thread on the 914 world
I have bought a 914-6 that was previously a very active 914-6 in the USA (called "Wild 6")
I need to get the car road legal here in Norway, and the most important thing I need to do is to add a parking brake/hand brake.
The car has (I think..) brakes from a 996 turbo.
What would be the best option?
Add two extra calipers? is it possible to add a more standard parking brake solution with brake pads inside the brake disc?
Anybody else out there who has done the job before me, or can point in the best direction?

All help is appreciated

Thanks

Alf K Larsen

Check out the how to threads.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=4909
Tangerine Racing also has a kit.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/brakes.htm

From my build thread, I created a crankarm, welded a pivot and slightly relocated the parking brake cable bracket so the standard cables could be utilized. Been on for 10 years and work great.

Thanks guys!
I need to get under my car to see what parts I need

Posting a picture of what is there will help.

The biggest hassle is welding the angle iron parking brake stop to the trailing arm. After that it’s just grinding down the sides for the 911 parking brake assembly to slide over. On my car I just modified two 914 clutch cables for the e-brake cables, but that was before Tangerine made adapters. Others have welded a stop to the shoe assembly, but that will not hold up during an emergency stop. It will work fine as a parking brake. Compare the 911 trailing arm, it has a beefy stop, so you can apply the emergency brake at speed and not have to worry about the shoe assembly braking loose.
I’m running Boxster calipers front and rear on my car.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Back in the day, George Vellios made an adapter that would allow you to use a 911 rear brake setup on the 914 trailing arms. However, I wonder if using the stock 914 rear calipers may not be enough to at least get the car street legal. As the fronts do most of the braking, how much of the total braking force do the rear brakes contribute? Could the rear calipers be machined to accept larger pistons (Eric)? Would that help or is it all dependent on the size of the brake pads?

Alf - worth posting some pics here to show what you have, and particularly to see if the trailing arms have been modified already?

I can recommend the Tangerine racing set up with the swaged ends. You can use standard cables, you need some spacers made up to set up the align the shoes correctly with the inner hub - and mostly welding.

What else do you need to get this thing on the road?

- Tony

Thanks a lot guys!
All you help is highly appreciated!
I'll try to get some pictures posted. I will probably have a trip in our workshop Wednesday, so I will jack it up, take of a wheel and have a look + take some pictures.

Now I have printed out the "how too's", and got a good overview
I have some parts left from a 914-6 clone I bought in Austin, TX, and I think I might have some of the parts you guys mention here. The rest I need to buy/fabricate.

Tony:
After finishing the hand brake job, I need to see to an oil leak from the 915 gearbox.
It suddenly started to leak (quite a bit) when it was parked in our workshop...
Not looking forward to that either ...
Other than that the car us ready for the road more or less.
By biggest challenge will probably to get the car approved for road use if they start to dig into the size of the engine. If they suspect that the engine size is to big it will not be approved.
Actually I consider to sell the car back to the US, or to another European country where the road authorities are not that strict as here in Norway.

Hi Alfy,

Wild 6? White with stripes? Sounds like Omar or Otmar(? drawing a blank on his name right now) old car.

You could always get a stock 2.0L type IV or a 2.0L 911T motor to put in it for the inspectors to see. Then after the inspectors are done, swap the hot motor back in the car.

There is a guy I know in California that has two motors for his 930. One that will pass the yearly required emissions test, and one that generates gobs of power, but will never pass emissions.

Good luck!

I had E at PMB Performance prep my parking brake for my 74 V8 car 6 or 7 years ago. Tangerine cable. I just have to weld the cable sheath on the trailing arm.

Bob B

Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I found a set of used 911 E brakes, and then I got the cable kit from Tangerine. I haven't installed yet

Yes, thats the car:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=97994&hl=

mean machine

This is an option, even if it i a hassle to do this every second year ... I have been looking for a smaller 6 cyl engine to use for this purpose. It is approved with a 2.4 liter, so if you guys know of an ok, or rebuild able engine, please let me know. Also looking for an original steering wheel... wil not get the steering wheel approved either

Looks nice and clean Bob Thanks for the welcome! (all of you guys!)
This seems to be the best option for sure. Now I need to dig into the car and start shopping parts. We all love buying new parts ?
My buddy Trond is building a 914-6 GT clone in the same workshop, so I suppose we will help each other out on this job since we both need to have this done.

I have one set on the shelf right now. It doesn't take long to make more though.
Shipping to the EU adds about $38 to the website price, or $30 for an order of 2 sets.

My set-up done by PO has no stops for the shoes,they make a hell of a mess when they fail,no strength in the backing plates only....ask me how I know ,I plan to weld something really solid to replicate whats on the 911 trailing arm.
The placement of these stops is important so the shoes are centered correctly.
My cables go through the trailing arms and and I have curved tubes to guide the cable ends,this system works well pity the PO didn't understand the meaning of emergency brake .

I'd take a hard look at using the Wilwood spot caliper for a parking brake...
https://www.wilwood.com/calipers/CaliperLis...ame=Mech%20Spot
Inexpensive, simple and light weight....

That's Andy Schermully's old car. He took me for a spin on the streets of willow track. I will never forget that fun ride!

Great!!

I will check tonight what parts I need Thanks!

Thanks!

This is the way I had planned to go, and it looks sweet.
The challenge, as I see it, is to make a bracket to attach the caliper. I suppose it has to be welded(nice and straight and parallel to the brake disc) to the trailing arm.
This work has to look nice I suppose to get it approved for road use as well.

Cool
I see from the posts on the 914 forums, that the car has been a fast fun car

I employed the Wilwood mechanical spot caliper on my car (Carrera brakes). They won't hold very well the car on a steep incline; perhaps changing the lever ratio might help. They do rattle, as the pads are free floating, as is the caliper.....slightly annoying, but tolerable.

Andys

Marty – AT MSDS has these spot calipers on his Turbo if I remember right and I believe he has a patent on using them on P cars. I bought a set to use on my V8 car but went to the 911 style after I heard of the noise and a sticking problem with them. They are around $100 each. I sold my new set for $100 to be out of them.

Bob B

Had a quick inspection in the workshop yesterday. I have a set of trailing arms with the 911 parts, two hand brake wires (don't know if they can be used?) from a 914-6 clone i used to own
I suppose I can either replace the trailing arms or I can use the parts, and do some grinding and welding, on the ones on the car.
What is easiest do you think? I suppose if I switch trailing arms I should probably replace all bushings in them, which I suspect is a shitty job(?)

You are all set. Put some new bushings and stainless-steel shaft and move the rest over. It looks like there is some extra welding done on the trailing arm. Get Tangerine cable and weld its sheath on the arm and get the disk with the set up for the brake and well you should be done. You could drill and weld a tube inside of the trailing arm if you wanted to reinforce it more. I let PMB do that for me.

Bob B