After years of jacks stands and tight quarters, I finally pulled the trigger on a “lift”. My garage is tight and has a very low ceiling so couldn’t do what I really wanted and put a real lift in; opted for the ezcarlift. It arrived yesterday and within an hour had the car up. I can move it from the garage to the driveway as needed and though only 26” of lift, I am absolutely giddy about the amount of room I now have underneath.

About to re-do the front end (steering rack, tie rod ends, control arm / sway bar bushings etc) and brakes / rotors all around. Plus the undercoat is peeling and needs to be scraped and redone, and lots of other little things need freshening up. This will make life so much easier!


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Cool, I have been thinking about getting one of those.

I know a full lift would be nice but they take up a lot of space.

For most of my restoration work I only needed to lift the car about 2 feet.

How easy would it be to take it to the track?

John

Not as easy as i’d hoped, but definitely doable if you have a trailer, pickup or SUV. The main side pieces are maybe 5’ long and about 60lbs a piece. The cross braces come off easily- 2 14mm bolts on each end of each side piece. And it’s on casters so rolls pretty easily.

It took me an hour to unbox, unwrap, study it and then put it together. Figure it would literally take 10-15 minutes now.

You use a drill / socket to lift and lower- I have an 8 amp corded drill and it ran it up and down in a minute or two. Not sure how happy it would be with a cordless.

nice but it looks like the price is about the same as a portable MaxxJax 4 point lift and the 2 posts can be stored to the side when not in use, and I believe can go up to 40". Not sure yet which way I will go but boy would it be nice to have something!
Can you just leave it under the car for storage? did they ship direct to you?

Phil

Yeah I looked at maxxjack and quick jack and other low-rise options. I am not sure my garage floors meet spec for max jack and I didn’t really want to have to drill into them. Plus I really need to be able to go from garage to driveway and move from one car to another in place (there is currently a datsun 240z in the garage almost completely disassembled). So just rolled the dice. I’m very happy with this, though still I’ve lift-envy of those who can actually stand under their cars...!

Yes it was shipped FedEx straight to the house. Ordered on Wednesday arrived on Tuesday.

Looks pretty cool, thanks for describing it.

If you were going to a champ car race it might be worth the effort to take it along.

You could probably rent it by the hour to other teams if you did not need it.

John

Oh and I also don’t think I have room on either side of the car in the garage to put the maxxjack. I bought the “drive over” kit (basically ramps) that let me put this down and drive (or push!) a car up on to it. Thanks

Its not cheap but looks like a great solution for someone who wants a quick easy lift and like me, hates jack stands.

do you think it gets up high enough to do a motor and/or transmission drop? , might consider one if I can use it for the other cars I need to work on like the jag and BMW.

Thnks for sharing, certainly way better than jackstands I agree with Mark!

I had an EZcarlift...was a very well made product and I had no problems with it. I sold it to a friend who just had to have it...lol.

While not as good as a 2 post lift it was very useful and certainly better than jack stands.

I think you could drop the motor. Nothing in the way but not sure about height. I have carbs so that might make it more difficult...

Anyone happen to know how high you have to lift the car to clear the motor?

I think we were close to having to raise the rear jack point to about 24-26" so it will be close - one way to find out I guess- one thing, was if we had not put the bumper and the valence on , it would have not been so close , that will save a couple inches, so I think if you pull the valence you could do it with less than 24" space from floor to jack points.

Best home shop tool investment I ever made!

If you use jack stands this is for you.
It's the home mechanic that uses jack stands BFF!

Built like a Sherman tank. Powder coating so thick you would have to chisel off.
It's designed and made just like you would do it if you knew how. Professional quality.
Easy up and down...raises to 26" at the lift flat side and with hockey puck adapters 27"(correction double pucks now)
Yes you can drop engine and trans unless you have some weird high manifolds
Take it to the track...as JoeD mentioned 4 nuts each end and comes apart.
Yes it takes longer to set up the first time as it is packed SO damn well. Each piece is wrapped and protected. And some assembly is required the first time.
Beats the hell out of getting under your car to do work and wondering if one of those jack stands will hold. Total confidence with this unit.
This is one of those pieces of equipment that you will have for ever
Go to the site and check the specs and all the pictures:
http://ezcarlift.com/index.html
If you have questions and call you get the owner Boytcho Manev.
Very nice fellow to talk with.

I'm a very satisfied customer here!
I don't own any stock in the company or that the owner is my brother-in-law

PS...I went to the site to get the link and was looking around...the man just keeps developing improving things with new accessories and design touches....you know he is listening to owners and making any mod that helps and works for newer cars..also as mentioned you can sell it...ever sell any old jack stands

I have had one for around ten years. Best tool I have. I also bought the castor kit for it. This can come in handy if you want to move car around. It works well for engine and trans removal for both 4 or 6 cylinder cars. My six has tall intakes/carburetors. I have a second set of cross bars that works well on Boxster and other cars. I store this tool standing on edge against the garage wall. Rolls on ground like a big skateboard. Great customer service. I have received parts in the mail twice when he updates some little part.

best tool

At my age anything that raises the car is
My back acts up on occasion so I use my lifts as often as possible.
I also cheat and use them while detailing cars at times. Couldn't be without them.

Oscar

I went with the quickjack.

Its actually cheaper and doesn't require a drill to lift it and doesn't have any cross members between the lifts. They also call it portable but each side is probably 60-70lbs. I can't see taking it to the track. I get by with a simple scissor jack to change tires at the track.

But like everyone says... I should have bought one of these years ago no matter what kind you get.

I have a quickjack which goes to about 19" on the short blocks and no problem to do an engine drop. With 26" I'd bet it'd clear even with carbs. Not sure if that crossmember might get in the way, tho.

I have one and can tell you that you can pick up with car with the lifting system rotated 90 degrees from how it is depited in the first post and it will not intrude into the enginebay area at all. It will lift high enough to roll the engine/trans under while on most types of lowish profile lifting jacks.

Each side weighs 55lbs even though it seems like less, easy to load into pick-up, trailer or hatchback. Light enough to tak on the road to the track or other events, or to work on friends cars at other locations.

No affiliation - satisfied user

I don't think that is high enough to get a six engine and transmission in and out

2.0 air cleaner needs to come off. I detach the rear cross member and use Racer Chris engine and tranny floor jack lift plate.
10 years in still happy.


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I have done it several times. I use a harbor freight lifting to sit the engine and trans on. The top of it is about 6" off the ground. I do not have a rear valance on my car. That may need to be removed.

had one for 10 years now, you can drop a motor with one with out issue, and so much more.

Manev, who I owe some info to says it will lift my ML320, need to get him the jack points. Is the owner and designer, he really cares about your experience, and is a great guy to talk to.

And I like it better than my quick jack. At least it goes up in a semi level fashion, as in maybe .01 degree off from side to side, most likely my slab. Don't feel as stuck under it because of the leg design. It lifts 90 degrees from horizontal, unlike the Quick jack that pushes stuff up via an arc. You don't have hydraulic hoses on the floor to work around.

With the wheel kit you can roll cars around with ease. Can't do that with a quick jack.

Only thing it won't lift in my fleet of vehicles are the tractors, and the two trucks. Ford F250 the diesel almost exceeds the weight capacity. Powerstrocks are a half ton in themselves. And the Chevy pick'm up truck also is a bit to heavy. But I think the Ford would pancake the list.

Dewalt made (makes) a corded drill that turns at at 4000 RPM, makes my lift go up and down really fast. Not that good for drilling holes, but great for lifting a car.

Lots of pictures of my cars on the lift, look hard it is normally a small section of the lift seen in the shots.

I would like to have another.

Once the car is in the air, could one of the cross members be removed, if it was in the way?

Greg W.

I used my quick jack to install my /6. I raised it up. Slipped some jack stands to hold it in place and then dropped it down again. Put some big ass wood blocks under it and raised some more. Took a few extra minutes but the body cleared the carbs.

Yes. I've done that temporarily.

Anyone know if these will get the car high enough to pull a V8 out?

I have a line on a lightly used BendPack MD-6SP mid rise - $700 from a buddy. The price is certainly attractive, but these are "big and heavy"...


Thoughts?

tygaboy, when you want to lift a car 30 to 48 inches you want "big and heavy". Best, Mark

Some people like myself like the idea of not having to deal with a separate hydraulic pump and hoses. Sure a mechanical lift that requires a drill isn't ideal either and I'm surprised that the ezcarlift is more expensive. I would think a mechanical method of raising and lowering would be less expensive than a hydraulic pump setup.

All of these mid rise lift options area pretty awesome though for those of us that don't have the space for a real lift.

Chris, you are more than welcome to borrow my lift and see. Knock on wood I have three fully functional Porsches!

Andy - Now there's an idea! I'll be in touch. Many thanks!
Chris
ps. "...functional Porsche..." What's that?

Thanks. Are the cross braces adjustable for width, depending upon the width of the car being lifted?

Greg W.

The width is adjustable by replacing the cross members with a smaller or larger size.
I used a set of cross members 4 inches smaller than normal, I used these rubber pads to support the pan while replacing the passenger side long.


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Portability, configurability and options makes the EZCarlift the best choice for me.

Thanks. What size cross brace did you use?

Greg W.

to answer the question about mechanical being cheaper than hydralic. Doubtful. Larger Corporation buys hydro cylinders and pumps from who knows where. On the cheap.

Machining a set of acme threads a gear box, forming the sides, they are formed, not welded for 3 inches out of flat bar stock.

Here is my grips with quick jack.

They used flat bar stock to make almost everything.

the hydraulics you can disconnect. But then you have to reconnect. If you ever done this with one that still is pressurized you will never get the ball open on the quick fittings, unless you have a mechanical advantage. I have a Tool I built to release the pressure when I find once. Small portable press that has a bolt that presses against the screw. Other day I was installing a loader at the farm, and did not have it with me. Used a big set of Channel Locks, that did the trick, also took a shower in Hydro.

Moving these around is a pain. 'No wheels on them except the small rollers on the front. They suck if you have to move them sideways, or in any direction really. Been thinking about making a set of caster wheels for the. design is so bad that I have my ideas, but figure that it will also add to the width, and make things just as bad. Been thinking about adding a slick pads under the lift, to allow it to slide, fear is then it might slide out from under the car.

Cross Bars are not there, but the bottom plate is, the hydro cylinder is. And it just feels so um crude by design.

EZcarlift

The drills can bring you down. I used to lift it with a 1/2" drill, slooooooooooowwwwwwww

Setup up tho the 3/8" 4000 RPM drill, and it is still slower than a hydro, but bearable. I can tear both lifts down, and move them both, EZCARlift wins that battle. And it is a very well designed. Simplicity at its finest. I would hav gotten two if it could lift the Pickups I need to service

Like all tool you can find bargains out there, but then you get the best in your hands you realize the investment was well worth the money. Don't get me wrong, I make do with a lot of stuff. When I find the quality tool, I grab it up. I have some tools that my wife has pitched because she said if I did not like them why should I give them to someone else. I tried to explain some people do not have the same exacting standards for tools. Now I just load them up and drop them off myself. I will toss a tool if I think it will kill somebody.

The clicker style jack sands I pitched all of them at the metal recycler. Had one fail, and figured if it failed on me, it could the next poor soul, so into the pile they went. If someone pulled them out and used them, that is on them. When you placing stuff several 1000 pounds above any of you body parts you really want to make sure it stays in the location you have it in. I would rather see a stack of glue and screwed 2x4 that a cinder block improperly oriented, or even a cheap jack stand.

I would love to have an EZcarlift that lifts higher than 26" for my smaller stuff. Thinking zero turn commercial mowers, Ventracs and Steiner type stuff. Smaller tractors I would like to get up in the air and work on. Be able to move around the shop if I need to open up a bay etc.....


Enjoy the lift you choose, they all have their advantages. And you life changes once you have one.

These have worked out great. Easy to load up and take to your friends house when he needs help.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

The set I normally use is the xm52, I also use blocks of wood between the lift and the car jack points, although I do not use the front jack donuts. I lift where the front inner fender meets the floor, I place a 6 inch section of 2 x 4 between the seam and the lift. The rear jack points are fine for general lifting, a 4 inch square section of 2 x 4 is perfect under the rear jack donuts.

The above photo shows the xmc45 cross members.

Thanks again.

Greg W.