Hi everyone.

I just spent the last hour and 1/2 or so searching for a post from a few weeks / months ago where someone asked about recreating the original look of the seam sealer in the trunk but, I can't find it.

We had to replace the rear panel in the trunk and we're about to put the seam sealer on and would like to replicate the original look as much as possible.

Does anyone have any good tips or tricks they could share with me? Or perhaps point me in the direction of any previous posts.

Thanks!

Mike

Easy, buy Wurth SKS and get the gun. Our man Kirk matches it exactly.

If you want to talk to him about it, 770 877 5743

Awesome! Thanks George, as always. Happy Thanksgiving!
Mike

Very gracious George

The problem is that special gun is @#$% expensive! I used Kent's trick of using bed liner in a shutz gun he shared on CAIRO's Six thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2568527 Simple and worked pretty well. I don't think the bed liner piled up as high as the original sealer but you have to scrutinize pretty close to notice. I think you could get a pretty close to exact match using 2 or more coats to build thickness. You can read my experience starting here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2659255 But here's a shot of the result.



and the trunk after paint:

Thanks for the great option there, Brent!

Brent, well done.

I applied seam sealer built it up to the depth of the original sealer and then blew compressed air over it to get a texture. It's not exactly the same but very close. I haven't painted it yet but the primer should help blend it in.

I read somewhere that if you brushed it on, then used a really stiff bristled brush and dab it on the top you could replicate the stippled effect (I think you would have to coat the bristles with something like acetone so the seam seall will not stick). Have not seen it done, so I am not sure how good of a job it does.

Nope, its not self leveling. Too tacky. It will stand up on you. I've tried the brush dab method and blotting it back down with wax paper to get a "look". It will end up looking like Dr. Suess's worst nightmare. The sprayer is the way to go because it spits the product a bit at a time and the amount of build up is controlled to obtain the desired texture.

Lord Fusor gun with sprayable urathane seam sealer, I switched to the Wurth product because of a bit firmer feel.



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you only do it once so why not do it right? Cars are now to valuable to fudge it

Acetone is too hot and will evaporate too fast. Try Paint thiner. Old School stuff. It takes a long time to try and will give you some working time

Bob B

Use the same thinner you use for the primer and paint, introduce as few different chemicals as possible.
I used urethane thinner with Deltron epoxy, than used it to sculpt and reduce the amount of seam sealer over certain joints. Stick dipped in the thinner, latex glove dipped in thinner can really smooth it out.

Is that gun the same that's used for general spraying of undercoating (wheel wells, etc), and just dialed down for a much tighter spray pattern? If that's the case, it makes the price easier to accept.

Unless Kirk has a secret, the Wurth gun is a $300 item. The Lord Fusor version is a little more reasonable at $165 but still a hefty price for a one-time use tool.

Well Wurth SKS is described as undercoating (stoneguard anyway), then there's this gun: http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-sks...sealer-gun.html

I'm thinking epoxy primer, brush on "seam sealer", followed by SKS, epoxy primer, color.

Interesting. Would be great if that works.

Seam sealer and undercoat guns are different.
Seam sealer will apply a bead of sealer at a continuous rate, tip is changed to spray the material.
Undercoat gun shoots undercoat and cavity wax, $350 from Wurth.

I found that gun as well. If it's the right one, I'll get it right now. Can anyone verify if it is?

No not the correct gun.





This is

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$154 on eBay

Cool, thanks!