What is recommended choice here for trailing arm rear wheel/stub axle bearing - there are two available at Pelican Parts: FAG @ $37.50 with four star rating and SKF @ $75.00 with three star rating?

We usually buy the FAG bearings and have good luck.

Based on a recent post, you should open up whatever bearings you get and re-pack them. The poster found one of the two they ordered had just about zero grease in it at all...

--DD

FAG... not that there's anything wrong with that.

Both FAG & SKF used to be considered good products, but that could've changed if production has moved out of Germany/Euro-Zone for either. Then there's the obvious price difference.

Read the recent customer reviews in the past few years from the bottom/lowest ratings, & judge whether the reviews are based on factual problems, concerns over high price vs. lower (SKF), lack of grease packing (while a QC issue or perhaps they got hot & bled the grease out, & may not affect part & component quality), or other things to be concerned about - vs. people bad mouthing, unhappy about the expense (SKF), or just don't know what they're talking about BS.

The top ratings tend not to tell you much info-wise, but help judge the overall rating number/stars.

FWIW - I've had both in my 914, but my long time mechanic/tech Hans used to prefer the SKF, but has said that FAG is good too more recently (& he's been factory trained on 914s since the start in 1969).

As noted above - these parts could've sat on shelves for years, so check that they're properly grease packed or repack them.


Tom
///////

Thanks for all of your advice - FAG it is.

fag or skf

I think Dave might be talking about me. Here's my post on repacking new FAG bearings just a couple days ago. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2679355 Can't speak for SKF but would like to see someone pop a couple open and show what is inside.

and a couple YT vids:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A5kf5pXl4w



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9P1R2clGAU

FAG are now made in Slovakia so take that as you may. I installed a new SKF bearing in my steering rack this weekend (not a wheel bearing), and it was stamped "made in France." Don't know if all of their bearings come out of France now, just passing along what I learned.

Years back I did a comparison on the rear bearings. they are NOT made the same as the original ones. Internal races are NOT as thick as the originals and the bearings are smaller. Bruce Stone and I talked about this a couple of weeks ago. He did all sorts of measurements on the bearings. Not sure of his conclusions Maybe he will chime in.

To the manufacturer all that matters is the overall dimensions and the quality standards. Different factory, different country they might use a different size ball bearing.
This is still a common bearing, used on 911, 912 to '73, '85-06 318-328 BMW and others.

SKF France is/was a common OE bearing supplier for VW.

What is DIY method for inserting bearing into trailing arm?

Clean up the area good, toss the bearing in the freezer overnight and it will likely slip in.

I must be doing something wrong, as it's never been that easy for me. I've only done it twice -- once with a press, and once with a BFH (very carefully, of course ). Both times it was somewhat of a challenge, even with frozen bearings. That interference fit is pretty tight (at least in my case).

Thanks for advice - will report back.

We do a lot of them at the shop and it's 50/50. I had to tell some of the guys about freezing the bearings, most just use a press to drive them home.

How cold is your freezer? I have one that runs about -30
As long as it's been in say 12 hours and the hole is well cleaned out I don't have much issue. Maye some light tapping with a drift or I jury rig a length of threaded rod to pull it in.

but yeh... you're always going to run into that boitch, guess I've been lucky, I should be, because I've ran into my fair share of fuchery with other poop.

Apparently not Ontario cold!

Coldest day I've seen here was -35...the day I moved into this house.
Normal temps are around 15-32F this time of year, I don't care as my shop has good heat.

I use a threaded rod with sockets/washers/etc. to install on the car.

I use a big Snap-On slide hammer to remove.

Arms off the car: goes in the press.

Be aware that pirate branded bearings is a big issue. Buying from the cheapest place or ebay and chances are that you wont be getting what you think you are paying for.
Sure this may mostly be an issue for larger more expensive bearings than ours but stil its good to be aware of the problem.

https://www.machinedesign.com/motion-contro...s-fake-bearings

Wha...!? You must be in the Banana Belt. I've seen -40 down here in the south.

For installing rear bearings, I freeze the bearings and use the HF Front Wheel Bearing Adapter set. I don't know why they call it a front adapter set. It works great on rear bearings to install without using hammers.

BTW, for removing bearings, Autozone offers a free slide hammer bearing set as a loaner. For their loaner tools, you pay for the tool and they refund you when you return it. My store doesn't even limit how long you keep it.

Yes Bruce will chime in.
I discussed with Mark his experience that the installed bearings had more play after installed and the stub axle installed. He had some info that the bearings were made to more loose tolerances.
I had about a dozen used bearings that I decided to tear down for sling shot ammo.
I found the old German made bearings took a lot more pressure to pop out the seal and outer race. The Slovakian bearing pop apart with very little pressure.
I would like to know the quality level to which they are build regarding allowed variation in size and clearances. They may have looser tolerances allowing faster machining time and reduced cost.

What I found most interesting was the 911 Porsche 1974 and on, does not have a metal cage to hold the balls. It is some find of flexible plastic.

I have tried the freezer method and it only worked once. The bores are often not smooth with rough machining. I made slide hammer tools to remove the hubs and bearings. I use a Harbor Freight Bearing installation set. I have a shop press but never used it for bearing install. I like to hand install them to have the feel that they are going in right. I get them started then tap the plate on the top with a hammer alternately around the edge to get the bearing in about 1/4 inch. They never want to go in straight. After they are started I used the fine threaded rod and discs to pull them in.

@914sixer
@bbrock

I have been using a hub tool I bought many moons ago.
I would like to add one thing. Back in the day, bearings from the VAG dealers used to come with a little packet of Molybdenum Disulfide paste. You would use in on the bore of the hub, before inserting the bearing. Since that time, I have used the paste on both the hub carrier bore and on the hub itself.
If you don't have any MD paste, you can use copper slip.
I have never had a bearing or hub spin in the bores. But I find it a little easier to remove both later down the road when the bearing needs to be replaced.

Greg W.

Double post.