hey my 4-prong wiring job broke on 2 wires....so which is which or are they all +12V or what? What's the pinout on this thing anyway?

this one?

yup....thats the one. Powers the ECU if i'm not mistaken. Unless there is some other mystery connector i didnt see.

They are not all constant 12V. You can use shielded spade connectors in place of the four prong connectors. Just make sure the correct wires go in the correct place.

Go see in the electrical diagram and see what pin on the ECU plug corresponds to which wire on the board, then just use a multimeter to figure out the right combination.

well thats my problem....they split not at the plug itself but later in the harness...so i'm resorting to using my crippled 2.0 setup....

I'm talking about doing a continuity test with an ohmmeter and see which wire is which based on a reference point, in this case the only good one, the ECU connector. Doesn't matter where it's split!

On the relay board you have 4 connectors I, II, III and IV here is the matching ones on the ECU plug:

I = 16 or 24
II = 18
III = 19
IV = Cold start valve

One test probe on the wire and the other goes to any point on the ECU untill you get 0 ohms thus continuity and you have found the wire number.

okay makes sense now....just had to boot-strap my brain...which works almost as well as a failing alternator does.

There's a diagram in the Haynes manual, and notes on my blog. One wire feeds +12 to the ECU, one controls the fuel pump, one controls the cold start valve, and one detects when the engine is cranking. You can just use bare spade connectors you crimp onto the ends of the wire.

well on my 2.0 setup, the bottom-left plug is actually just screwed onto a bolt for ground....WTF? Actually my fuel pump is supposedly re-wired to help with vapor lock problems....nothing here yet.

Britt, why don't you try fixing ONE thing at a time instead of tackling 20 of them

You're not going anywhere, if things are not going your way, take a break and come back later.