Here's a shot of the engine:

Thank you @John

Enjoy your updates, thanks for the posts.

Hey guys - someone pointed me to this thread as there seems to be a few questions about our 914/6 conversion mount.
I've never heard anyone say there was oil line or shift rod clearance issues.. we've sold over 3 dozen of these and use this mount in both of our own cars - Huey has a 3.2 stock engine with stock shift rod and stock oil tank location, and Papa Smurf has (had) a high compression engine based on a 930 case with the Tangerine Racing shift rod assembly and oil lines seemingly running everywhere throughout the car (oil tank up front). Both work fine. No need to space the trans mounts.

yes, it will sit your engine down a slight bit lower than stock, but that's because the mount needs to clear the brake bias assembly. All the aftermarket mounts have this issue.

FYI, we modeled this after the Patrick Motorsports mount - which I broke twice. My fabrication guy took one of the broken mounts and redesigned it for extra strength and support. Haven't broken it since, and we push over 360 hp through these mounts.

If anyone HAS run into an issue, please call or email me directly, I'd be interested in knowing what the issue is and if it's something we can rectify. But to date, the only one that we ever had a problem with turns out was installed upside down...oops...

Enough real estate under that lid to stuff a 2.7L turbo sytem in there as well
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Wrong thread... @naro914
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=345537

Anyone know or remember a member here REZRON? This tub was bought from him way back in 2005 and sat for many years (in my Dad's garage until 2016). It was supposed to be a tub from CA and had some damage to the passenger side long, and I knew both front fenders had been replaced and the passenger side wasn't attached. The hell hole is solid, and most of the rear end is rust free and original paint underneath.

The doors fit well enough (better than most I've seen). I replaced portions of the passenger side long after pulling the pinch seam back straight.

I started on the rear flares and all went well, so I moved to the front. Ran into issues in the front that I wasn't aware of. I knew the passenger side fender was not attached which I didn't mind, and I knew the drivers side had been replaced. What I had failed to notice was that the underside of the bottom of the front trunk was badly beaten up. The inside of the front trunk appeared straight.

Someone had used filler to flatten out the inside of the front trunk and failed to straighten out the sheet metal or even paint it during some repair at some point. I found this when beating out a dent inside the passenger side front inner fender and the bondo popped. Bad on me for not checking until now. I recall that REZRON was supposed to have been a a body shop person. Looking back, I should have known, but still makes me mad as there wasn't disclosure about the floor of the front trunk, the bulkhead in front of the gas tank and the area between the bulkhead and the firewall in front of the passenger compartment. After searching the threads and reading some of his threads from 15+ years ago, there were indications that someone in the past had performed some poor repairs in the front, but wasn't made clear at the time of sale. Luckily, this thing was cheap and it isn't rusty.

Many hours later (and much frustration), I have removed all the plastic filler in the front trunk, used a hammer and dolly (and other straightening devices for many hours and days) to straighten the floor, bulkhead, inner fenders, and area between the bulkhead and the firewall. Pretty sure I invented a few new phrases for DAPO's.

I have checked and verified the suspension pick-up points to be accurate and I can now proceed to re-attaching the passenger side front fender, and completing the flare installation. Restoration Design has some new pieces that I plan to purchase including a new gravel pan (bottom cover plate for steering rack). I hope to post some pictures of progress soon.

So, nobody knows Rezron. Hmm. Anyway back to the project....

I have attached the passenger side fender and resumed tack welding the flares onto the front end. I have a few more sheet metal warps to work out, as well as a few more areas to give my attention, but I think this tub will be fine after the TLC that I am applying. I will eventually need some aluminum trim (roll bar and windshield frame) and possibly some early chrome bumpers to finish this thing (hint, hint... wink, wink, nudge, nudge, say no more).

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Press on, it’s going to be great.

Well done John. Do you have any in progress photos of a fender installation? Or can you write up the steps you used? Specifically I'm interested in how you mounted the fender to the car and how you cut the old fender, keeping the new fender in position.

I've installed 3 of the AA sets, pretty straight forward. I did one thread on it:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=89850&st=0


Looks like John is installing sort of similar. Looks great!

Watsonrx13,

Dan is mostly right. On this set of flares, I started the first one by carefully marking and cutting the fender then fitting the flare to the cut fender. The last three flares on this project were done how Dan showed in the thread he referenced. His thread is from a while ago, but it turned out far easier than cutting the whole fender at once.

The basic method used was to carefully measure and mark the bottoms of the flares to the existing fenders and starting tack welding and cutting about 7-8" at a time then tack welding. I moved from front to back and worked my way up to the tops of the flare as I went. They really do fit nicely. Take your time and put as little heat into the sheet metal as possible. I'm far better at MIG than TIG, so these are MIG welded one spot at a time.

I used measurements that seemed to match found on this site as well as on a Patrick Motorsports page to get the openings positioned fore-aft. I also used my existing full scale 3D model as a reference for dimensions.

Thanks everyone.

On more tip would be to clamp a piece of wood at the bottom of the stock wheel arch then have it extend outward and sit the flare on it.. This will give the proper height.

I would suggest you look at this thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...engine&st=0

Pictures of the setup are on page 2.

This is a CIS install, using an VW GTI airbox and some fittings. It doesn't require you to remove the engine lid latch or modify the engine compartment.

Clay

I looked at the thread and it is interesting. I can't find what airbox was used in that example, nor could I find the elbow that attaches to the throttle valve. In a similar thread, I read that DrEvil simply rotated the fuel distributor 60 degrees and things cleared, but I couldn't find a picture of that. The other problem I see with an airbox like in the thread that you referred to, is that it appears access to the air filter would be less than ideal. Do you know who pieced that system together?

When I helped him out, the car was already like that. I do know the airbox was off a VW GTI, and I think the hose was too. The fuel distributor was from the 911, but it bolts to the airbox with no issues.

Changing the air filter is easy, just raise up the fuel distributor assembly. There is enough length in the hoses to allow it.

Clay

More progress being made and I have moved along to the engine compartment. I'm using an aftermarket oil tank (I believe it came from Patrick Motorsports maybe 10 years ago). Here is my current questions:

Are the holes into the inner fender simply centered on the embossed areas?

I've seen some hole sizes posted in other threads, would one or more of these holes be better if it were larger/smaller?

What is the best way to mark and cut the holes? I'm thinking of carefully marking and then using a plasma or a nibbler or a saw to open the holes larger and finishing off with a die grinder with a carbide burr or using sanding drums. I would think hole saws would be dangerous, but might make better round holes.

Do most folks remove the 4-cyl engine mounts or leave them? My last one, I cut them out and while it looks nice, I recall that it was a lot of effort.

Last one for now. What is the best way to reinforce the engine lid hinge mounts? I've never had one crack or fail, but both of them on this car have been welded or replaced. I typically have my hand on the engine lid when I pull the release cable to prevent the engine lid from springing open and hitting the back edge of the roll bar. I guess my dad must have taught me that.

Thanks again for your input.

From various threads, I see a range of sizes for holes, some metric and some Imperial. Some larger and some smaller. Here is what I found and from measuring my tank, I made the attached full size 11x17 templates. I figure if I start with smaller holes, I can always make them larger, but it's tougher to go the other way.

One more question:

Does the fitting for the return line in the lower right corner also help support the tank or is the tank only held by the two 8mm studs (bolts in the case of my tank)?


These PDF's should be printed on 11x17 and no scaling. The centers match up with my tank (fabricated aluminum tank from Patrick Motorsports, but I think a member here actually made it)

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Does the fitting for the return line in the lower right corner also help support the tank or is the tank only held by the two 8mm studs (bolts in the case of my tank)?

Yes, just a hole for the fitting. Not a tank support. The only points on the tank that are important to get right on the engine bay are the mounting studs and the hole for the oil console. The other two holes can be “adjusted” as needed.

I suggest to all of my customers is to make a template of the tank you have on hand. Use the template you have attached and ensure it fits your tank.. All tanks are a bit different .

This follows what I had thought. If the tank is supported only from those two 8mm studs/bolts, is there a need to reinforce the sheet metal inner fender? I don't think that I recall ever seeing anyone reinforce it, but I thought I would throw it out there.

My past conversions have all been with front mounted round tanks, so all my experience is with those types of installs, and I'm probably over-thinking it.

No reinforcements needed. Just the oem rubber washer next to the tank. 911’s use the same type of oil tank mount.

Started cutting the holes and they turned out well so far, have a couple left once I come to grips with how I want to do the oil return line to the tank.

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The rubber sleeve for the filter console fits the hole I cut nicely. Do the hard rubber/plastic insulation washers meet through the hole? In other words, do the mounting holes need to be large enough that the stepped mounting washers go through the holes?

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While I like the DW Design filler neck, I wish the screw-on cap looked more like the 914-6 oil fill cap. I may find a donor stock looking cap to modify. I found that the oil filler neck that I thought I had is actually from a 911 and doesn't properly fit the oil tank opening.

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As I'm doing this, I'm wondering about how I will plumb this car. In the past, I've had front mount oil coolers and tanks. I've run the return line from the engine case up front to a thermostat then cooler then back to thermostat, then oil filter, then to tank. I've never plumbed in a pressure relief valve in the external oil cooler circuit. I've noticed that in all the 914-6 GT cars, a pressure relief valve in addition to a thermostat is used. I'm not 100% convinced that I really need the pressure relief valve, but why would they have put them in the GT cars? In air cooled 911 street cars, they simply put a thermostat in the lines leading to/from the front mounted coolers.

Any thoughts on the pressure relief valves plumbed into the GT cars? Anyone actually use a pressure relief valve in the lines to the external oil cooler?

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I have decided to relocate the engine lid release latch to the passenger side.

I'll keep plugging away at this.

Eric at PMB has the GT style pressure relief line in his car. It's not used often in these conversions and it's pretty pricy. The parts are similar to a 1969 911S. Reproductions are available but even they are a couple grand. for the whole setup.

I don't normally see the mounting holes drilled for the steps.

I can source everything original but it really is waste of time

The only reasoning I can come up with for the pressure relief valve would be if the bypass in either the filter console or the filter would fail, either popping the oil cooler or the oil filter. Most modern filters that I know of have a bypass built into them. Some of the racing filters will filter 100% oil all the time, but I'm not using one of those, and the filter console that I have doesn't even have a bypass installed and relies on the bypass of the filter itself. Not installing any of that makes sense to me, and makes plumbing far simpler. I was mainly looking for what others thought.

As far as the stepped washers go, I would assume that the one protruding would mount next to the tank, the recessed one would be in the engine bay covered with one of those large cup washers then a flat washer like on a 911.

I'll ask again, how many folks remove the 4-cyl engine mounts? While looking at where I think I'll end up running oil lines, those mounts might just be in the way, so that pretty much answers my own question.

Some days it's just tough to keep on-track and motivated. Too many distractions such as it looks like I need new o-rings for the injectors on that 2.7.

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I'm still looking for those large cup washers that I swear I bought once upon a time...

I recently sent Ben an oil filter console just like yours. No bypass valve, just open flow. Do you remember where you purchased yours?
I normally use the regular Porsche console. I remove the threaded metal fitting and use a very small C clamp to hold down the bypass spring so I can make sure it gets cleaned out inside. Then a couple drops of motor oil to make sure it stays functional.

Ben/MB911 is making new consoles based off the Porsche design so we won't have to search for good used ones.

I have one conversion with 914-4 motor mounts and one without. The one without looks cleaner and has more space for hoses but the other reason was the mounts were rusty so getting in back of them was necessary to clean up the corrosion.

I think the filler neck and the filter console both came from Don Welch

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I remember now why I was reluctant to remove the 4-cyl mounts, such a pain in the butt, but I'm glad I did as this is the first rust I've found, but it was just surface rust. I plan on welding in that piece of one of the old chassis stiffening kits now that the old engine mount is removed. Not sure it's really needed, but while I am in there...

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I guess now I must do the other side. Once it's done, I'll be glad I did as it is cleaner that way.