To be sure, it also needs the four aluminum rivets in place, to know it has not been previously opened.

I took the MPS out. Could they make ANYTHING on this engine that is easy to get to??

Anyway, there is no epoxy plug. So the unit has been opened.

The outer leads have 94 ohms resistance and the inner two have...
0.362 ohms! Like "no ohms."

This must mean something, right?? Does leaving the ignition on do this?? I'm beginning to think my LED light installation is unrelated to what's going on.


Paul

Also, it has passed the 15 inch Hg test without any problem, maybe down to 14 after 5 minutes.

Do you have one Jeff??

Paul

For 0.362 ohms...sure your DVM was not set to the 1K scale?

I have an 043 core I would need to build before I can offer it. Let me do that this weekend and get back to you if interested. I usually only rebuild folks' original MPS cores.

Someone has been in that MPS in the last few years, I do recognize the Tangerine WOT stop (allen key), but not the red thread lock drop.

You will need an 02 sensor to tune it properly, so prep for that.

Actually it is set to KOhm on the meter, but the other reading is 94 also on the same setting...I figured it would read 364 since it goes to 4 digits on the scale? It only has one setting for resistance. So maybe it is OK??

Paul

It's embarrassing...

My Micronta Radio Shack digital meter has the Ohm symbol visible when it's a low number, like 94 for one set of leads. Then the symbol disappears so the 0.364 number really is 364 ohms.

I guess the MPS checks out grossly: good vacuum and good resistances. I think adjusting AFM and 02 sensors may be way above my comprehension level!

Paul

Two suggestions: Pull the injectors and spray carb cleaner (thru a tube) into the back end to flush any debris that might be clogging their inlet screens.
Then consider making a small adjustment to the MPS to add slight enrichment. Knowing who rebuilt the unit and what if any changes they made could be very helpful.

Thanks Chris. Am considering all options!

Paul

I had a very similar bucking to you under load and it turned out to be a loose connection at an earth point on the engine block... it’s the one you can’t see under the plenum on top of the block... have you checked here??

It’s the earth for the injectors so if it’s bad under load it only gets half the power it should have... bucks like crazy.

If you haven’t checked here, please do so.

Very similar symptoms to a bad TPS and I changed that too and it made no difference. Happened across this earth and bingo.

Good idea to check the grounds. I have a set of known good injectors coming and I'm going to try those too.

Paul

So I towed the car to Brad 914Ltd. Turns out the timing was way off, he rotated the dizzy and all is well.

I still don't understand why it started running poorly. I put in the LED taillights, kept the ignition on to check the lights without starting the car, thought I burned out the Pertronix, replaced it with new Pertronix, replaced the fuel injectors and it continued to run like crap.

All is well. As usual, you guys are the best for taking all the time to help me figure it out. Next time I'll start with the basics!!!

Paul