Offered my car for sale and it did not sell. Must not be doing something right. Should give a little history of why I'm selling the car. Found that I didn't enjoy working on it as much as I thought I would. It was a little bit fun but more frustrating than fun. The vision in my head of when I worked on my old cars years ago to keep them running is through rose colored glasses. Same with driving the car. Rose colored glasses again. These old bones don't like getting in and out of the car. I miss the modern conveniences and the car is so small I worry about how it would crumple in an accident compared to today's modern cars. So now I don't drive it as much either. It is tough to let the car go but it should be driven and not just collect dust. It is best to sell the car. I have been fortunate to own many cars of my dreams. The first was a few Mustangs, then the Porsche and now the Tesla Model 3 wants room in the garage.
When I bought the car in 2017 I overpaid and was okay with that. I bought the car and planned to keep it many years or sell it if it didn't give me that funny feeling I get when I drive certain cars. Here is a picture of my new car.
Click to view attachment
This is a 2019 all wheel drive dual motor with long range battery. This car gives me that funny feeling when I drive it and I love the modern conveniences. Was going to buy this car before the Porsche and chickened out at the last minute. Bought the Porsche and have no regrets. But I am definitely not a salesman and need help selling the Porsche.
First I must lower my asking price. Thanks for not trashing the original for sale post with "that car isn't worth it". Here is a link to the original post:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340211
Should I change the description? Should I add or take away photo's? I know this forum is not the classifieds but the Garage is where I have posted the most and great advise has been given in the past. I also tried to sell the car on Ebay and it did not meet my reserve of $8,000. I want to sell the car not have it stolen. The bid only went to $5,400 and that seems to low to me. Is that really what the car is worth? I don't have to sell right away but putting it in storage for the winter will happen soon enough if it doesn't sell. What do you guys think I should do next?
Full Version: Need help selling car
With all due respect, the rust is what is hurting your pricing. It doesn't look terrible at all, but, like all rust, there is more than what can be easily seen. East coast cars are harder to sell because we all know they aren't rust free as compared to desert or CA cars. I'm in MI, trust me I know rust. My next car will definitely come from CA or the desert.
There are a number of little things that immediately catch my eye that would make me question how well the car has been maintained over its life but not necessarily by you. Again no disrespect intended.
Sail panel trim dented
Alternator adjustment hold - plastic cap missing
Something doesn't look right between window glass and the sail panel (maybe photo angle?)
Cheap steering wheel wrap. Leather wrap wheels are getting very pricey to repair or replace to the tune of $400-$600 alone.
Accumulated grease/dirt build up around the transmission shift linkage and cover indicates some weepage over time.
Seats are not stock upholstery.
Some sort of brackets bolted to bottom of spare tire area at one time / aftermarket front sway bar below? Can't tell, but again not right.
Just little stuff that really doesn't mean much overall, but, if you're seeking higher pricing these things start to matter and would need to be addressed. The question is how much it will cost to address vs. whether you would indeed get the money on the pricing. My gut says probably not.
Plus check with Bbrock. I think you may have the wrong numbers stamped on your engine tin.
@bbrock
Sorry for the inside baseball joke if you don't follow Bret's build thread.
I'll let you slide on the Tesla. That EV will be faster in a straight line than a good many of the 914's here that have built motors and tons of $$ sunk into them. I love the whole EV, max torque at 0 RPM thing. Instant, quiet torque is amazing in it's own warped sort of way. And as you state, you get things like A/C. Miracles of modern engineering.
Overall the $5.4K offer probably wasn't far off. I'll let others chime in as I may be off my rocker.
There are a number of little things that immediately catch my eye that would make me question how well the car has been maintained over its life but not necessarily by you. Again no disrespect intended.
Sail panel trim dented
Alternator adjustment hold - plastic cap missing
Something doesn't look right between window glass and the sail panel (maybe photo angle?)
Cheap steering wheel wrap. Leather wrap wheels are getting very pricey to repair or replace to the tune of $400-$600 alone.
Accumulated grease/dirt build up around the transmission shift linkage and cover indicates some weepage over time.
Seats are not stock upholstery.
Some sort of brackets bolted to bottom of spare tire area at one time / aftermarket front sway bar below? Can't tell, but again not right.
Just little stuff that really doesn't mean much overall, but, if you're seeking higher pricing these things start to matter and would need to be addressed. The question is how much it will cost to address vs. whether you would indeed get the money on the pricing. My gut says probably not.
Plus check with Bbrock. I think you may have the wrong numbers stamped on your engine tin.
@bbrock
Sorry for the inside baseball joke if you don't follow Bret's build thread.
I'll let you slide on the Tesla. That EV will be faster in a straight line than a good many of the 914's here that have built motors and tons of $$ sunk into them. I love the whole EV, max torque at 0 RPM thing. Instant, quiet torque is amazing in it's own warped sort of way. And as you state, you get things like A/C. Miracles of modern engineering.
Overall the $5.4K offer probably wasn't far off. I'll let others chime in as I may be off my rocker.
I would try ebay again. Look at ads where the car has sold to get good descriptions, eye catching pics and pricing. Then post your bottom line price and get it sold.
over spray, rusty rear shocks cheap steering wheel cover (as previously mentioned) and left window fit, not good enough pictures as well. Car looks good though. The window fit I would be worried about especially because the top does not slightly overlap the roll bar as it should as if the car is bent, also shows previous damage in the right wheel well. Maybe have someone look at it who has an eye for body alignment first. If the car is bent you will have to straighten it, if the car is rusty in the longs, there is a problem
QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 6 2019, 05:50 PM) 
I would try ebay again. Look at ads where the car has sold to get good descriptions, eye catching pics and pricing. Then post your bottom line price and get it sold.
HMMM... that is what I am trying to figure out. My new bottom line price is 8k but maybe that is unrealistic. Most likely will re-list just need to figure best way to do it. It seems you are saying to list a best offer price instead of bid with reserve price. Thanks.
QUOTE(tmc914 @ Sep 6 2019, 06:04 PM)
QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 6 2019, 05:50 PM)
I would try ebay again. Look at ads where the car has sold to get good descriptions, eye catching pics and pricing. Then post your bottom line price and get it sold.
HMMM... that is what I am trying to figure out. My new bottom line price is 8k but maybe that is unrealistic. Most likely will re-list just need to figure best way to do it. It seems you are saying to list a best offer price instead of bid with reserve price. Thanks.
Yes. That's the way I do it when I sell low price 911's.
Also, If your new price is 8K, bump your for sale thread with the new price and include a couple pics in the ad, not just in a link.
I sell a lot of different things and have for a long time. One thing that's always true is the right price will sell anything. It's just finding that number that is sometimes a challenge.
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Sep 6 2019, 05:44 PM)
With all due respect, the rust is what is hurting your pricing. It doesn't look terrible at all, but, like all rust, there is more than what can be easily seen. East coast cars are harder to sell because we all know they aren't rust free as compared to desert or CA cars. I'm in MI, trust me I know rust. My next car will definitely come from CA or the desert.
There are a number of little things that immediately catch my eye that would make me question how well the car has been maintained over its life but not necessarily by you. Again no disrespect intended.
Sail panel trim dented
Alternator adjustment hold - plastic cap missing
Something doesn't look right between window glass and the sail panel (maybe photo angle?)
Cheap steering wheel wrap. Leather wrap wheels are getting very pricey to repair or replace to the tune of $400-$600 alone.
Accumulated grease/dirt build up around the transmission shift linkage and cover indicates some weepage over time.
Just little stuff that really doesn't mean much overall, but, if you're seeking higher pricing these things start to matter and would need to be addressed. The question is how much it will cost to address vs. whether you would indeed get the money on the pricing. My gut says probably not.
Plus check with Bbrock. I think you may have the wrong numbers stamped on your engine tin.
@bbrock
Sorry for the inside baseball joke if you don't follow Bret's build thread.
I'll let you slide on the Tesla. That EV will be faster in a straight line than a good many of the 914's here that have built motors and tons of $$ sunk into them. I love the whole EV, max torque at 0 RPM thing. Instant, quiet torque is amazing in it's own warped sort of way. And as you state, you get things like A/C. Miracles of modern engineering.
Overall the $5.4K offer probably wasn't far off. I'll let others chime in as I may be off my rocker.
Yes, the window is messed up, not a bad camera angle issue. Had a mechanic look at it and he could not adjust the window any more than it is. Couldn't get a quote to fix it. The lines on the doors all look good. The top fiberglass roof overhangs a bit on the drivers side. It is as if the back window metal needs to be moved about toward the drivers side.
Click to view attachment
so it looks like the car is opened up a bit and that is why the top does not overlap the roll bar slightly as it should the door gap gets bigger as it goes to the top and the window glass does not fit. Needs an adjustment. how is the rust on the car? Have you looked under the black steel rocker panel and under the long rocker carpet behind the emergency brake handle and around the seat belt bolt?
With all due respect, the rust is what is hurting your pricing. It doesn't look terrible at all, but, like all rust, there is more than what can be easily seen. East coast cars are harder to sell because we all know they aren't rust free as compared to desert or CA cars. I'm in MI, trust me I know rust. My next car will definitely come from CA or the desert.
There are a number of little things that immediately catch my eye that would make me question how well the car has been maintained over its life but not necessarily by you. Again no disrespect intended.
Sail panel trim dented
Alternator adjustment hold - plastic cap missing
Something doesn't look right between window glass and the sail panel (maybe photo angle?)
Cheap steering wheel wrap. Leather wrap wheels are getting very pricey to repair or replace to the tune of $400-$600 alone.
Accumulated grease/dirt build up around the transmission shift linkage and cover indicates some weepage over time.
Just little stuff that really doesn't mean much overall, but, if you're seeking higher pricing these things start to matter and would need to be addressed. The question is how much it will cost to address vs. whether you would indeed get the money on the pricing. My gut says probably not.
Plus check with Bbrock. I think you may have the wrong numbers stamped on your engine tin.
@bbrock
Sorry for the inside baseball joke if you don't follow Bret's build thread.
I'll let you slide on the Tesla. That EV will be faster in a straight line than a good many of the 914's here that have built motors and tons of $$ sunk into them. I love the whole EV, max torque at 0 RPM thing. Instant, quiet torque is amazing in it's own warped sort of way. And as you state, you get things like A/C. Miracles of modern engineering.
Overall the $5.4K offer probably wasn't far off. I'll let others chime in as I may be off my rocker.
Yes, the window is messed up, not a bad camera angle issue. Had a mechanic look at it and he could not adjust the window any more than it is. Couldn't get a quote to fix it. The lines on the doors all look good. The top fiberglass roof overhangs a bit on the drivers side. It is as if the back window metal needs to be moved about toward the drivers side.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(tmc914 @ Sep 6 2019, 03:26 PM)
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Sep 6 2019, 05:44 PM)
With all due respect, the rust is what is hurting your pricing. It doesn't look terrible at all, but, like all rust, there is more than what can be easily seen. East coast cars are harder to sell because we all know they aren't rust free as compared to desert or CA cars. I'm in MI, trust me I know rust. My next car will definitely come from CA or the desert.
There are a number of little things that immediately catch my eye that would make me question how well the car has been maintained over its life but not necessarily by you. Again no disrespect intended.
Sail panel trim dented
Alternator adjustment hold - plastic cap missing
Something doesn't look right between window glass and the sail panel (maybe photo angle?)
Cheap steering wheel wrap. Leather wrap wheels are getting very pricey to repair or replace to the tune of $400-$600 alone.
Accumulated grease/dirt build up around the transmission shift linkage and cover indicates some weepage over time.
Just little stuff that really doesn't mean much overall, but, if you're seeking higher pricing these things start to matter and would need to be addressed. The question is how much it will cost to address vs. whether you would indeed get the money on the pricing. My gut says probably not.
Plus check with Bbrock. I think you may have the wrong numbers stamped on your engine tin.
@bbrock
Sorry for the inside baseball joke if you don't follow Bret's build thread.
I'll let you slide on the Tesla. That EV will be faster in a straight line than a good many of the 914's here that have built motors and tons of $$ sunk into them. I love the whole EV, max torque at 0 RPM thing. Instant, quiet torque is amazing in it's own warped sort of way. And as you state, you get things like A/C. Miracles of modern engineering.
Overall the $5.4K offer probably wasn't far off. I'll let others chime in as I may be off my rocker.
Yes, the window is messed up, not a bad camera angle issue. Had a mechanic look at it and he could not adjust the window any more than it is. Couldn't get a quote to fix it. The lines on the doors all look good. The top fiberglass roof overhangs a bit on the drivers side. It is as if the back window metal needs to be moved about toward the drivers side.
Click to view attachment
Door looks gapped at the top which is highly unusual for 914's since they sag and pinch in a the top. I think George might be correct that body is bent or has had a poorly executed longitudinal repair in its past.
Sorry to be the bearer of that news.
Mark is right - post with appealing pictures, and be honest, that is your best bet. With the body like that, $8k is very ambitious even though the car looks great otherwise.
I paid $4k for my 73 2.0L project car which was a known candidate for a long repair. The rust turned out to be even worse than I thought and the engine was trash due to rust in the sump even though I ultimately got it running. In hindsight, I overpaid.
Sorry to be the bearer of that news.
Mark is right - post with appealing pictures, and be honest, that is your best bet. With the body like that, $8k is very ambitious even though the car looks great otherwise.
I paid $4k for my 73 2.0L project car which was a known candidate for a long repair. The rust turned out to be even worse than I thought and the engine was trash due to rust in the sump even though I ultimately got it running. In hindsight, I overpaid.
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Sep 6 2019, 06:36 PM)
Door looks gapped at the top which is highly unusual for 914's since they sag and pinch in a the top. I think George might be correct that body is bent or has had a poorly executed longitudinal repair in its past.
Sorry to be the bearer of that news.
Mark is right - post with appealing pictures, and be honest, that is your best bet. With the body like that, $8k is very ambitious even though the car looks great otherwise.
I paid $4k for my 73 2.0L project car which was a known candidate for a long repair. The rust turned out to be even worse than I thought and the engine was trash due to rust in the sump even though I ultimately got it running. In hindsight, I overpaid.
"so it looks like the car is opened up a bit and that is why the top does not overlap the roll bar slightly as it should the door gap gets bigger as it goes to the top and the window glass does not fit. Needs an adjustment. how is the rust on the car? Have you looked under the black steel rocker panel and under the long rocker carpet behind the emergency brake handle and around the seat belt bolt?"
Don't have access to the car for pics until tomorrow but this is what I have on my computer near where George was talking about. I agree and think the long repair could have been done better. I want to sort this out as best as I can so it is a fair price for all.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 6 2019, 02:50 PM)
I would try ebay again. Look at ads where the car has sold to get good descriptions, eye catching pics and pricing. Then post your bottom line price and get it sold.
X2. The key is lots of excellent pictures and a thorough description. Include any "warts" with both. There is no other venue where you can get the number of "eyes" on what you are selling than eBay....world wide. If you have a quality listing, what the car bids to is a good indication of the real market value.
The other is BaT, but I don't think they would accept your car to list unless it was at no reserve.
Here are some 914 sales on BaT.. Try to find some in the same condition as yours to see what they bid to or sold for. Also look at what is included in the descriptions and the pictures to get an idea how to market it.
QUOTE(tmc914 @ Sep 6 2019, 03:04 PM)
It seems you are saying to list a best offer price instead of bid with reserve price.
You can state a "buy it now or best offer price", but I wouldn't do that. You won't find out the market value of the car if potential buyers are scared off by your buy it now price and don't make an offer.
I'd list it with the lowest number you can live with as a reserve. $8k seems aggressive to me but if that is the lowest price you would sell it for (in other words you would keep it rather than sell it for less) then that's your reserve. Start the bidding at $100. If it makes reserve and sells, great. If it doesn't, you then know how the market values the car (if you have a listing with lots of good pictures and an in-depth description).
QUOTE(tmc914 @ Sep 6 2019, 03:26 PM)
Yes, the window is messed up, not a bad camera angle issue. Had a mechanic look at it and he could not adjust the window any more than it is. Couldn't get a quote to fix it. The lines on the doors all look good. The top fiberglass roof overhangs a bit on the drivers side. It is as if the back window metal needs to be moved about toward the drivers side.
Just because someone is a "mechanic" doesn't mean he knows every aspect of every car ever made.
Adjusting the windows on a 914 is a real 3D puzzle, but someone who has done several in the past can probably make yours better than what is shown. If there are not signs of severe body damage (a major hit), I'll bet that window/door can be made to fit.
Dont ignore Craigs List. Especially as the car is "shiny" and looks great. You will potentially might find someone that is excited for the car, and might be able to look past the issues (or not know) that the experts here point out immediately. Another plus is CL is free, your audience (in theory) are local that can look at the car, and not have to think about big transport costs.
QUOTE(Specracer @ Sep 6 2019, 03:54 PM)
Dont ignore Craigs List. Especially as the car is "shiny" and looks great. You will potentially might find someone that is excited for the car, and might be able to look past the issues (or not know) that the experts here point out immediately. Another plus is CL is free, your audience (in theory) are local that can look at the car, and not have to think about big transport costs.
Craigslist now cost for car ads
QUOTE(Specracer @ Sep 6 2019, 04:54 PM)
Dont ignore Craigs List. Especially as the car is "shiny" and looks great. You will potentially might find someone that is excited for the car, and might be able to look past the issues (or not know) that the experts here point out immediately.
I may have misunderstood you here, but I don't think it is very ethical to know of problems with a car and to not point those out to prospective buyers. In addition, it can actually HELP the sales effort to point out flaws. The buyer has better sense that he is dealing with an honest seller that way.
Well you do have some things going for you. 1st still running stock fuel injection. 2nd the trans is a side shift not tail.
As long as the rust is not in the hell hole being covered by something it's not too bad.
If you are not in a hurry to sell the best prices for selling seem to spike up about April and start going down end of summer. Your efforts in cleaning up and documenting any defects will pay off. If you have the time this winter as well as the space, you may be able to get a better price. I can see surface rust underneath, and if you have the time to properly address and document your clean up, it may pay off. The gaps may not be ideal, but you may be able to adjust to make them fit better.
Unfortunately, as you make the car more perfect you may fall in love with it again, and not want to sell. These cars are more fun to work on when you don't have to drive them.
As long as the rust is not in the hell hole being covered by something it's not too bad.
If you are not in a hurry to sell the best prices for selling seem to spike up about April and start going down end of summer. Your efforts in cleaning up and documenting any defects will pay off. If you have the time this winter as well as the space, you may be able to get a better price. I can see surface rust underneath, and if you have the time to properly address and document your clean up, it may pay off. The gaps may not be ideal, but you may be able to adjust to make them fit better.
Unfortunately, as you make the car more perfect you may fall in love with it again, and not want to sell. These cars are more fun to work on when you don't have to drive them.
you mention the blower fan and heat do not work, true,
Your heater system is missing from the engine to the heat exchangers and the flapper valves and hoses,, pretty big deal,,
Your heater system is missing from the engine to the heat exchangers and the flapper valves and hoses,, pretty big deal,,
Thanks all for the input. I have revised my ad and hope someone here buys this car. I think they will like it warts and all.
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