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ballsyfacts914
Some of you may be following my trails and tribulations regarding my shifting linkage. Many thanks again to all who have responded with helpful tips.

My new problem is this, the "tapered" screw I removed from the linkage at the firewall was just the screw part, no cone at the top. I was too focused on removal to notice this difference at the time. After getting new parts so I could replace the dual busihngs in the coupler, you know, the aluminum/fragile one I melted trying to remove the pin, I was able to put it all back together.

What I unfortunately noticed much too late was the where the tapered screw is supposed to go. The rod coming from the cockpit does not have a hole for the tapered part of the screw. I am 99% sure I didn't lose part of the screw in the rod when I removed, after a little heat it came right out.

I realize the rod coming from the cockpit should have room for the tapered part of the screw but my question is does the screw actually screw into this rod or does it merely enter and secure the rods together. Pretty sure whomever originally removed the tapered screw lost part of it and just jimmied it.

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IronHillRestorations
I'm going to guess that the intermediate rod (the one that's poking out the firewall) is rotated 180* and the tapered hole in the rod is on top.

The cone screw does go into the tapered hole. The cone screw should have a nylon insert, and it's supposed to be a one and done fastener. In a pinch you can put a small dab of blue locktite on it.
DaveO90s4
The tapered locating hole in the shift rod is not threaded.
ballsyfacts914
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Sep 17 2019, 09:10 PM) *

I'm going to guess that the intermediate rod (the one that's poking out the firewall) is rotated 180* and the tapered hole in the rod is on top.

The cone screw does go into the tapered hole. The cone screw should have a nylon insert, and it's supposed to be a one and done fastener. In a pinch you can put a small dab of blue locktite on it.


The intermediate rod has a hole but there is no room for the tapered screw to go, is that normal?
ballsyfacts914
QUOTE(ballsyfacts914 @ Sep 17 2019, 09:41 PM) *

QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Sep 17 2019, 09:10 PM) *

I'm going to guess that the intermediate rod (the one that's poking out the firewall) is rotated 180* and the tapered hole in the rod is on top.

The cone screw does go into the tapered hole. The cone screw should have a nylon insert, and it's supposed to be a one and done fastener. In a pinch you can put a small dab of blue locktite on it.


The intermediate rod has a hole but there is no room for the tapered screw to go, is that normal?


And the non-tapered screw I took out, can I just use that again?
gereed75
See perry's comments. The tapered cone screw fits into a tapered detent in the rod, it does not screw into a threaded hole in the rod. Do not use the old screw if it is not tapered on the end. A correctly tapered screw could be reused if held in place by some Loctite.

Sounds like maybe the PO used a non tapered set screw. Maybe that was part of the problem all along.

Keep on keepin' on. You'll get it. The whole assembly is a bit "fussy" but needs to be done right to ensure reliable shifting.
gereed75
here is a correct cone screw

Click to view attachment
ballsyfacts914
QUOTE(gereed75 @ Sep 17 2019, 10:15 PM) *

here is a correct cone screw

Click to view attachment


Ohhhhhh....so it isn't meant to be a deep hole?

Thank you!
IronHillRestorations
No, it's just large enough for the cone end of the screw to sit into it.

If someone put a regular set screw, double check the threads to make sure they didn't tap it for a different size. If so, you'll need a new coupler
ballsyfacts914
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Sep 18 2019, 07:19 AM) *

No, it's just large enough for the cone end of the screw to sit into it.

If someone put a regular set screw, double check the threads to make sure they didn't tap it for a different size. If so, you'll need a new coupler


I had to get a new coupler so I think I am set...thanks
ballsyfacts914
For crying out loud!!!

How the heck am I suppose to get the shift rod from the cockpit back into the coupler?

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ChrisFoley
The fit is supposed to be snug. The rod end needs to be smooth If the previous owner used a set screw the surface of the rod might need careful filing to remove burrs.
Pull the rod as far out as you can and carefully clamp it with a thin vice grip pliers. You don't want to create any marks on the rod because that part slides in the firewall bushing.
Make sure the hole in the rod still has a good shape to accept a new cone screw The cone part is supposed to go most of the way into the hole and fit precisely.
sixnotfour
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rhodyguy
Dimples are so cute. On a baby. Buy a Haynes manual.
ballsyfacts914
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Sep 19 2019, 12:45 PM) *

Dimples are so cute. On a baby. Buy a Haynes manual.


I have a Haynes
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