Great shots.

After driving a C5Z06 for the last 18 year, this looks like just what I need. I'll be shopping for a 914 tub. The idea really came after judging a 914-V8 at the Werks Reunion this year, and the owner lives near me.

Nice (no) great photos.

Mark.

I never got the first gear lock out either. You need a piece of mechanical gates to tell you that you can't use first gear? Just use your brain instead, and enjoy having the first gear for loading or getting around slow. Your brain can handle starting in 2nd when you want to romp.

I hear you. Makes sense. Just need to remind the wife to stay away from 1st.

With your skills I expect that you will have on the road by the end of next weekend

Thank you guys for compliments on the photos. If you want to see more of my work you can see it on Instagram https://z-p3.www.instagram.com/914rubber/
It's all 914 content an you may even be on there.

Baller 914 4-sure

Congrats Matt on ur newly acquired 914-8! Beautiful just how it is now!
Thanks also for sharing your instagram account with so much beautiful 914 pics!

This one?

Just need to lose all the bolt on crap.

Voltage regulator is in the gm alternator. If it runs keep wiring the same, just improve the connections and make it look nice!

Thank you
I am a little concerned that the water pump and of course the fans on the radiator are electric. With the alternator just hanging down there with no splash guard incase of weather. Any suggestions?

I've never been into V8 swaps, maybe because most of those I've seen has been paired with questionable 80's body modifications. BUT THIS ! Oh hell Yes !

Suddenly my little 160hp martini narrowbody feels a little weak....perhaps I should.....dammit Matty !

Don't do it!! Your car is awesome. If you want to do another car, then Hell yes brother, join the club. It's a lot of fun Plus it's been just long enough that your probably itching for another build like I am.

Yes I know its a little too nice to cut up and finding another body over here is quite tricky.

I've already got another build going. My son and I started building a Lotus super seven replica this spring. He gets to start taking driving lessons in 2½ years so it needs to be finished by then.

I've got two posts on my webpage here about it: http://matsgarage.com/?p=1386

That's awesome
Make sure your posting som progress photos on Instagram so I will remember to check your progress thread. That looks like it will be a lot of fun

Matt,
Looking at the pic it looks like it has water running through that box? If so, please take lots of pics if you relocate it to give the rest of us ideas on how that was set up!

I don't see any gas stations!

I will document the move of the heater box when the time comes.

Gas stations- yes it does like to visit them.

So I am looking at the wiring diagram of the relay board and where he hooked up the sweet "connection" with his roach clip
And I am trying to figure out if I can put that in the plug on the board. If so, would it be on the 97 pin or the 9 pin?

What is that roach clip/red wire powering?

You squiggled the wrong side of the fuse. It's switched 12v and it should turn 'on' the alt >> charges when turning. That circuit turns on the relays.

I will have to look a little closer. I thought it was exciting the alternator

I've done a lot of motor switches. This was my first with a Porsche, however. I always try to make my engine transplants look like the car came that way from the factory (as much as possible). This forum has been a huge help in that regard in all areas including wiring. All the wiring changes below are prior posts by others on the forum.

Here is my standard 3 wire GM/Delco alternator...



The wire indicated by the yellow arrow goes directly to the + terminal of the battery.

The wire indicated by the green arrow loops back to the same terminal as the yellow arrow wire. This is the sensor wire to tell the regulator how much to charge depending on the battery condition and load.

The wire indicated by the white arrow turns the "idiot light" on and off and goes to the relay panel in the engine compartment.


Here's my relay panel...



The white star is the power relay. The yellow star is the fuel pump relay. Both of these need to be in place.

The wire indicated by the white arrow goes to ground. This wire "fools" the system into thinking there is a stock ECU in place and allows you to hook up a low pressure fuel pump for the carb in the same spot and with the same wires as the stock high pressure fuel pump.

The wire indicated by the orange arrow is the wire indicated by the white arrow from the alternator. It is the one that turns the idiot light on and off. It hooks to the terminal shown that the voltage regulator used to plug into (now no longer needed since the alternator is internally regulated).

The wire indicated by the yellow arrow is attached to a switched, non fused, 12V terminal on the relay panel. I am running my electric choke from this terminal.

Other than power to my fans on the radiator in the frunk, I believe these are the only wiring changes I had to make in order to install the V8. (well, there is the rev limiter and the TachAdapt, but those are easy ones)

Nice! beat me to it. Delco 10si alternator is easy to wire if you understand them. same system I used putting that alternator on my tractor, an antique road grader, etc.
It's also available as a one wire alternator by changing the internal voltage regulator. Any starter/alternator shop will set you up either way and sell you that nice GM plug to work with.

Awesome guys Thank you so much. This is what I was looking for. I won't be able to work on it until next week but I am sure that I will run into more questions with this project.
Looking forward to putting in some of our new solid State relays. Once Mark is done with them, I will get you guys some.

So I took the car out for a few fall photos today and I have a pretty good leak in the Radiator. It has already been repaired at least once. Looking for recommendations. Repair it again or just replace it. If so, what do you recommend for a replacement radiator?

love the engine bay pic especially the iron manifold and cool distributor.

why the spacer under the carb?

Matt if your radiator is leaking I would think about replacing it with one from Rengade.
I think it’s from Ron Davis. You can buy directly from him.
Craig at V8914

Thanks.

The dizzy is a marine Mallory dual point. I am using it because it fits without cutting the front of the rear trunk like you have to do with any other distributor I know of.

The wedge spacer under the carb is to get the right angle on the carb so the floats can be set correctly. The engine sits flatter than it did in the front engine car it came out of.

i see now that that spacer is angled.

wow your attention to detail is fun-nominal

The devil is always in the details

Bob B

[/quote]
Thanks.

The dizzy is a marine Mallory dual point. I am using it because it fits without cutting the front of the rear trunk like you have to do with any other distributor I know of.

[/quote]
I love that. I would like to repair the trunk and clean up the msd too.

[quote name='Matty900' date='Oct 12 2019, 12:25 PM' post='2754248']
[/quote]
Thanks.

The dizzy is a marine Mallory dual point. I am using it because it fits without cutting the front of the rear trunk like you have to do with any other distributor I know of.

[/quote]
I love that. I would like to repair the trunk and clean up the msd too.
[/quote]


I've seen some nice "dog houses" that cover the dizzy and seal off the rear trunk, and designed so the targa top will still go where it is supposed to go (when the sun comes out unexpectedly here in the PNW ).

It would also be great to mount your MSD coil and control box so that they don't interfere with targa top storage and the stock place for your jack. I would think both could go in the engine compartment perhaps on the engine side of the rear trunk panel. That's where I mounted my coil. The downside would be that you may have to remove the engine/trans to do it and they might be difficult to service if necessary.

What is the hole for on the right side of the front wall of the trunk?

Here's mine...

There are a couple of small distributors that fit in.

I made a cover to help in any tuning that my car may need. I got the metal for both the distributor cover and the section of trunk so my flipped 930 with hydraulic clutch would fit in. (thanks Bruce Stone)


Bob BClick to view attachment

Bob,
My marine Mallory is mechanical advance only. I'd love to have one that also has vacuum advance. What are the others that will fit without cutting the front of the trunk?

Thanks.

Probably easiest to replace it with same type for fitment.
If you have a renegade radiator, good luck trying to buy direct from Ron Davis; I was unable to. I just replaced mine earlier this summer. The box it was shipped in said CMB (something like that and I can double check if interested).

Your car looks awesome!

Renegade don’t use Ron Davis no more. Renegade gets then from these guys .
So I went to them and eliminated the middle man . Click to view attachment

Go to Summit on line or and HP shop and look or call. Ask for a small base distributor. I went through it with my Corvette Eng. I had this very problem and asked them. My 1st 914-8 had a 283 in it. Small distributor. They make everything. Dick, your engine and car looks clean as they come. I was told Rod Simpson at Simpson Hybrids 12 years that the ram horn manifold made close to the same HP as headers. Marty may have something on that but it does look clean.

Bob B

iron manifold performance


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qe9ke0rQlT8

Thanks, Bob...but I called Summit (and Jegs) and talked to their reps about the lowest dizzy they had...manifold to top of cap. I ordered a few from Summit that looked close and no go. In my application I need something with a crab cap at a minimum. It could be my engine is in a slightly different position than yours with the 283. The mechanical advance only dizzy works just fine and I can dial in total advance and when it comes in so that's a plus. I would probably get a few more MPG with a vacuum advance at steady state freeway cruise (I get 20 now) and it may run cooler with the vacuum although that doesn't seem to be a problem (yet )

With the exhaust manifolds, I wasn't looking for any more HP with a narrow body and little tires. I wanted it to plumb easy (no bundle of snakes) and look decent. Notice I have a single exhaust also. 2 1/4" to the Y and 2 1/2" after that through the muffler. Keeps things simple. (the rear bar is back on now)

The only small distributor I know of with a vacuum advance is the one I’m using, an Accel A71100E. It easily will clear the front trunk panel but you would still need to drop the engine for removal. Unfortunately Accel (bought out by MSD) discontinued the 71000 line of distributors. Maybe because the internal electronic module had reliability problems. But I use it with an MSD box with the magnetic pickup and that works great. The distributor body is billet aluminum and good quality. Eventually I’ll have to replace it as the cap and rotor are out of stock at the suppliers I’ve searched. I ordered a small distributor from Summit a couple years ago and the size of the body was fine but it was way too tall, would not fit under the engine lid. Had to send it back. Hopefully I can get a few more years out of the Accel before the cap and rotor wear out. I tried a GM style HEI unit for awhile and hated it, it was huge compared to the Accel. Maybe the ignition systems with coil packs will be an affordable future option.

In regard to the radiator you can also look at the Toyota Celica GT units with the fan and shrouds listed on ebay.
These will be Chinese made, and maybe a slightly different fit,
but many folks here have used them with success.

Any particular year?
How much motor can they handle?

dick, got any video of your car running with that exhaust? how quiet is it? looks real nice.
seems to sit a tiny bit lower than oil pan?

I'll be using this for my LS conversion.
I'll additionally be running a 25 to 30 row oil cooler.
Others have used this for various conversions as well.
Here is a current link - Ebay Celica GT Radiator

Thanks, I am also collecting parts to do an LS conversion.

The exhaust crossover is about an inch below the pan sump and just under the engine support crossmember. It is the lowest part of the car. I have 1,000+ miles on the car now and have not bottomed on anything. No need to go cross ways over speed bumps. The car is low...but not too low (my grandson would argue with that )





The exhaust system is all mandrel bent stainless. The muffler is a stainless Magnaflow that I think was made for a truck. I wanted the muffler shop to make the car quiet, but not like a Chevy 6 through a pinched tailpipe. I drive my collector cars. I didn't want it to drone in my ears on the freeway. When you get on the loud pedal it makes all kinds of good noises, but around town you know it's a V8 but it's not obnoxious.



Here's a short video of the sound...

914 V8