Question? Is the oil pressure switch tool a thin walled socket? Using a standard 24mm socket I am unable to remove the sensor.

I was able to get mine out without having to turn down a tool. IIRC, I did have to use a deep well socket. The electrical contact of the sensor prevented my standard socket from seating deep enough.

Craftsman sockets are what I have.

I remember when I needed to get the sensor out from the head, I bought a single deep socket from home depot for ~$5. I would do the same for the oil pressure switch if you don't have one in your toolbox that fits.

I attempted to use a 24mm socket short because of the angle. A deep socket collides into the engine bracket.

Maybe attach picture - I can't visualize the bracket that is interfering.

I remember having a similar problem. The 24mm deep socket wouldn't fit with the distributor in place. I used a 24mm Craftsman standard socket. The extension fit about half way in with it in place, which was enough to loosen the switch. After a couple turns to loosen it, I un threaded it the remainder by hand. I remember I had to use a pair of needle nose vice grips to get the socket out though. It was a very tight fit against the distributor and the engine tin.

Sockets are only standardized on the size of the hex. The other stuff like OD, overall length, and shape are variable even between old Craftsman and newer Craftsman without even getting into other brand differences.

Maybe just see if you can find a slimmer socket at HD, Lowes, etc. than what you currently have.

If it is indeed the long hex nut of the distributor hold down that is interfering, you could pull the distributor to improve access.

Would need to reinstall distributor and set the timing. PITA.

Like previous poster, I did need to do final removal by hand once it was loosened.

Not to confuse, this sensor is under a plate opposite side of the oil filter.

Wait . . . . . .

Are you talking about the Taco plate Oil Temp sensor on the on the bottom of the engine?

Yes, my temp gauge runs hot after 10 mins.

Since no picture are posted. Let's be sure we are talking the same part. I'm a bit confused since there really should be no tool access issues with getting to this sensor once the exterior cover plate is removed. Beware, removal of the two bolts will likely dump all oil if not drained and you start trying to loosen the sensor.

Here is the Taco plate located underneath the engine as shown in the Classified Forum.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340764

Are we absolutely talking the same parts?

If so, the sensor probably isn't the issue and is more likely blocked cooling fins, blocked oil cooler, and be sure to check the fan to make sure you don't have a plastic shopping bag or other debris in the fan itself.

Early temp gauges had a wide red band. The tendency to run near the red band causes lots of worry without due cause. Later temp gauges had a much narrower band almost all the way to full scale.

See the difference in Kevin's link for consoles and gauges for sale. Early on left, Late on Rt.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340745

Are you deep in the red?

Unfortunately, yes

My gauge is in the deep red after 10 mins of driving.

Click to view attachment

Could the oil cooler internally have build up or blockage?

@914Sixer

1st we need to make sure you have the right sensor for that combo gauge. I'm not an expert on what sensor that gauge pairs with.

Blocked oil cooler is very possible. I've seen blocked cooler on all three engines I've torn down this year GA004310, GA000099, and the 2.4L six. Midwest cottonwood fluff is nasty and clogs leaky oily coolers.

Also verify engine timing is proper and pull plugs to make sure you aren't running extremely lean (white ish plug insulator).

Find a friend with a non contact IR thermometer to confirm oil temps. It's also possible to get rodent nest on top on engine that will make it run hot. You can check that out with a cheap USB endoscope

Still in the process of checking the gauge wiring. While driving the oil light illuminates green.

You're scaring me. low oil pressure is consistent to severe overheating. Oil pressure light not on or flickering at idle when started cold?

Need to limit driving and engine overheating until you can figure out what is happening. Do you have an oil pressure gauge in your car or just the light? The light comes on only at ridiculously low pressure (something like 7psi). Way too low for a running engine at driving speed. Don't keep driving it with that light illuminated.

I forgot, but if I recall you car has cooling flaps still in place correct? Flaps are necessary to direct air over the oil cooler. Flaps move freely and not bound? Fail safe of the stock thermostat and flaps is for the flaps to go to the full hot position that directs max airflow over the oil cooler.

Post picture of the flap position both cold and hot. I just dropped all my shrouds off for powder coat or I'd take a picture to demonstrate what is inside and what you're looking for.

Per previous post, you need a means to look inside engine tin though the spark plug holes to make sure you don't have a mouse house like this.

Click to view attachment

Or a blocked / clogged oil cooler like this

Click to view attachment


Either via cheap borescope like I used on that 2.4L engine (~ $120) or USB version that will work with your laptop, or something.

Currently my flaps are permanently open. I still need to get a new thermostat

You're welcome to borrow my dipstick thermometer to see what your oil is actually running at.....I live in Fishers, not too far from you. Jon

Java2570,
Thanks, might take you up on that. What are you driving?

I've had a '74 914 2.0L since around 2010 but it's been off the road for over 2 years,
been doing a bunch of work to it and am still not done yet.