This weekend I parked the car in the work bay of my garage.

I kinda broke it during a drive. Or rather the door stay on the passenger door broke, the door opened too far, and fucked up the paint along the leading edge of the door (down to metal) and then pulled the door out of adjustment as I tried to close it before I understood what had happened.

So, on the slate:

First the stuff that has to get done:

1. Fix the door stay.
2. Do something to fix the paint on the leading edge of the door before it rusts.
3. Drain fuel and pull the tank.
4. Restore the cabin blower fan, and all of the cables and HVAC crap that goes along with it.
5. Fix or replace the windshield wiper motor.
6. new windshield wipers.
7. Clean the longs (heater tubes).
8. Smoke or pressure test my exchangers.
9. Get all the heat stuff working on the engine bay side of the car.
10. Buy and install the drainage lines and funnels that go to the rain tray.
    
    And then the stuff that would be nice t have done:
11. Maybe new tires.
12. restore a stock steering wheel and replace the Dino that on the car.
13. adjust my doors so the windows fit better to the car's body.
14. plug up any odd holes in the body that might let wet salty water in (like the holes cut into the longs to run the AC lines back when the car had air conditioning.)

The wipers have never really worked right, and looks like they draw a HUGE amount of power when I have to use them. Which I had to this weekend, almost immediately after the door stay broke and exposed steel along the leading edge of my door. On a day that was not supposed to rain, and ended up raining 1/2 the day.

My voltmeter (which at this point is pretty accurate) shows about 13.7 volts when the car is running, and drops down to 11 volts while the motor struggles to move the wipers. For the past several years my response has been to heavily rain-X the windshield and try not to drive if I think it will rain. This does not work for me if I want to take the car on trips (like Amelia Island).

Adding heat stuff back in has been a long time coming, and has very little to do with keeping me warm. The car is flat out dangerous to drive on humid MidAtlantic evenings, or any time there is rain. The windshield really fogs up.

So my goal there is to get the heater plumbed to the windshield vents.

For the trip to Amelia, its about 2000 miles round trip. I've been a few times now - and each time I've gone its been snowing to beat the band when I left PA. I'm leaning towards flat towing the car instead of driving it. House is booked at Ameilia, so now I just gotta get there.

Zach

You have plenty of time still. Make sure you sign up for the Reunion Friday and the C&C Saturday. The C&C fills up and registration is open now . I’m out of Jacksonville and thinking about planning a 914 drive to the new Brumos museum Saturday after the C&C. It a nice drive. Careful with the flat tow if your tires are questionable. Uhaul trailers are cheap enough to rent!

I was thinking about flat towing so that I could drive some of the stints in my car while my co-driver drove the truck.

My tires are old at this point, but have always been stored indoors. I keep putting off buying new tires as I have flares to weld on and 5 lug to upgrade to, but that's not happening this winter. When the flares go on the car will be getting new paint.

Goal is to have the BMW 2002 driving when I tear the 914 down for welding and paint again.

Zach

Zach, how did you find a place to stay?? every hotel I looked at is already booked up except for thursday evening. - sent in my application for the Cars and Coffee event, and will register for the WerksReunion as soon as its available. - with that said I may have to drive in from a ways off, as it appears hotels are fully booked out already

Did you try air b&b

I think I googled house for rent or room for rent or something like that. I found something right away. Its on the north end of the island across the road from the ocean.

Zach

good luck and I hope you have yours ready for the show! I have a few things to spruce up but I am fully motivated, and will now do some searching for a VRBO/air/bnb as I just received my confirmation that the car has been accepted for the Cars and Coffee on Saturday!! See you there!

Phil

Phil,
Try this one or one nearby. It’s far but a nice drive. Last year a bunch of us from the area met right across the street from this hotel and drove in Friday and Saturday morning. The drive is along the water and we head out before dawn and can watch the sun rise during the drive. https://www.ihg.com/holidayinnexpress/hotel...tail/directions

So a lot of changes.
My room at Amelia got recalled and I ended up cancelling my trip. Fuckers.

But the show must go on for Hershey next month, and I've not updated this thread at all.


Lift got installed and the 914 is up on it.


I bought a set of LED headlights (the 3500 series) from Vintage Car LED.

I've started getting my heat system back in order and I'll have another post about that in a moment.
Zach

Is this the correct orientation for this tube? Do you use a hose to connect this to the firewall tube?


What attaches to this part of the heat exchanger? Is this the part that goes to the "Cold" side of the tins and the fan? Or does this connect to fan shroud somehow?

I've never had heat on this car and have no clue how it works.

Zach

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/pet/pors...14/570u/202150/

here is a pic of the j-tube and S-tube to the fan housing. the open pipe would get the flapper box and from the flapper the orange hose goes to the bod of the car(longs tube)

You need #24 and #18. Do you have the J tubes #20? You can buy the gaskets for #18 @914Rubber to seal the connection to the fan housing.

one more

Hrm. I am 100% missing parts.

And the parts I have may be the wrong parts. My car was a 75/76 and I backdated the heat exchangers ages ago.
These are the parts I have:
Click to view attachment

Looks like there are parts I need.
Zach

Bruce stone will have what you don’t have, flapper boxes and 914rubber has all the seals . i backdated mine from ‘75 to earlier HE too so i had to source all the parts . all those parts in my pics are from Bruce.

Looks you are missing the little covers the connect the duct to the fan housing. Somebody sells new ones

AA has those covers and the seals 914rubber, and the right side and left side are different , there is also a flapper that goes in the opening and hinges on a pin, just use metal coat hanger for the pin

Yes, the little flapper stops the heater booster fan from pushing air into the fan housing so at idle you have good heated air flow. Of course as the engine rev's the fan overpowers the flappers so air flows thru the HE's

I'm sure I have the covers and anything else you might need but cant get to them until Wed. No charge for you.

Click to view attachment

So that pic is of the plumbing I took off my car with the 75+ exchangers wayyyyy back in 2005. Is this plumbing the same? IE will these pieces work with my SSI exchangers or do I need to source the early plumbing parts as well as the flapper boxes, etc.

Thanks!
Zach