I picked up this roller last year and my brother picked one up as well. The original intension was a pair of Hayabusa builds, but I'm not so sure anymore, so I'm starting a new thread. The car was more or less complete and cheap. The longs and suspension points were solid, so I figure it was something I could work with.
Late this summer, I finally got back into the car, and the plan now is to take my time and make decisions as I go. Naturally, that means the first thing that needed to be done was to strip the car down to the bare chassis and tackle the rustoration first. This is especially interesting to me because the last time I restored a 914 was 25 years ago and I never got the chance to learn how to do body/suspension work. I'm using it as an opportunity to learn how fabricate and weld.
This will be my new thread and I'll be digging up pictures and posting updates with progress as I dig them up.
Full Version: 74 914 Rustoration
I have found myself pretty much in the same situation with a 1976 model. I have my own thread but I have yet to decide whether this is a car I am going to restore this car or seek a better one. But I have fixed cars with rust before, so I look forward to your thread.
Since you have a couple of Hayabusa's maybe you should do a Hayabusa based V8 like the Lotus that was pumping out 450+ HP if your bother bails on his project.
Could be an interesting build.
I don't have many pictures of the tear down, but I want to start with the history of this car's color.
The factory color code is L96M, marathon blue metallic and in the places where it's still fresh, I really am growing fond of it. I may match it when it comes time to paint. Especially since it was available on the 914-6 and my current inclination is to put a 3.0/3.2L engine in it.
It looks like it was then painted white, then red, then black with some kind of horrible brown primer after the white. The black paint job (and the red) were definitely not professional jobs - overspray everywhere and poorly bonded, etc.
I warmed up the rear quarter panel with a propane torch and managed to get a second removed in one piece. It measured with my calipers at 1mm thick.
Click to view attachment
The factory color code is L96M, marathon blue metallic and in the places where it's still fresh, I really am growing fond of it. I may match it when it comes time to paint. Especially since it was available on the 914-6 and my current inclination is to put a 3.0/3.2L engine in it.
It looks like it was then painted white, then red, then black with some kind of horrible brown primer after the white. The black paint job (and the red) were definitely not professional jobs - overspray everywhere and poorly bonded, etc.
I warmed up the rear quarter panel with a propane torch and managed to get a second removed in one piece. It measured with my calipers at 1mm thick.
Click to view attachment
Keep posting. How's this build going?
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Nov 27 2019, 07:56 AM) 
Keep posting. How's this build going?
A Michigan build!
Okay, pictures that I did take during the teardown and inventory of the chassis are coming with the next post. I wanted to mention the best addition to my tool arsenal for the project so far.
The lugs, suspension, steering rack, trailing arms, etc. gave me fits - the car had obviously been sitting (and rusting) for years. I tried, propane, PB blaster, mechanical leverage (up to 6-7' with cheater), and an air impact gun. No dice.
Once I got this setup, along with the #6 heating tip, all I ever needed to do was heat the stuck nut/bolt until it just started to glow red and every single time the fastener came loose without any issue whatsoever.
I wish I had this sucker 25 years ago when I did my last 914 project. All hail my trusty little HF oxy/acetylene torch!
The lugs, suspension, steering rack, trailing arms, etc. gave me fits - the car had obviously been sitting (and rusting) for years. I tried, propane, PB blaster, mechanical leverage (up to 6-7' with cheater), and an air impact gun. No dice.
Once I got this setup, along with the #6 heating tip, all I ever needed to do was heat the stuck nut/bolt until it just started to glow red and every single time the fastener came loose without any issue whatsoever.
I wish I had this sucker 25 years ago when I did my last 914 project. All hail my trusty little HF oxy/acetylene torch!
The guys at the shop showed me how to make friends with the hot wrench. I just use a MAP torch but it works well.
Here are the pictures I took during the teardown. The neighbor's cat was interested in what was going on - you can see the car has been through many colors and as I learned in going over it - also had many battle scars.
Click to view attachment
The rear panel was really weak in a few places, as well as the rear trunk pan, and I decided that I was going to replace the entire panel instead of doing the fabrication work to clean it up. More on that later.
The area blocked in red, more pictures to come, was evidence of an old accident where front half of the inner front fender was replaced but the damage also affected the area where the sway bar comes through as well as the bracket just under it. I've since found a donor piece to patch it in later. Thanks to Garold down in NW Indiana for hooking me up with some hunks off of one of his chassis (more pictures to come on that too).
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The longs and suspension points were solid, but it I plan on replacing: rear panel, rear trunk pan, floor plan, front trunk floor plan in addition to the fab work to fix up the firewall and the engine bay (hell hole, battery tray).
Typical lower windshield rust.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The rear panel was really weak in a few places, as well as the rear trunk pan, and I decided that I was going to replace the entire panel instead of doing the fabrication work to clean it up. More on that later.
The area blocked in red, more pictures to come, was evidence of an old accident where front half of the inner front fender was replaced but the damage also affected the area where the sway bar comes through as well as the bracket just under it. I've since found a donor piece to patch it in later. Thanks to Garold down in NW Indiana for hooking me up with some hunks off of one of his chassis (more pictures to come on that too).
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
The longs and suspension points were solid, but it I plan on replacing: rear panel, rear trunk pan, floor plan, front trunk floor plan in addition to the fab work to fix up the firewall and the engine bay (hell hole, battery tray).
Typical lower windshield rust.
Click to view attachment
Here are a few examples of what I found during disassembly:
1. At some point someone thought it would be great to just weld in a piece of plate with a few stitches and the seat rails to that. The floor definitely needs to go and I'm considering boxing it in for re-enforcement. Those decisions will be deferred until after I have the chassis restoration done and decide on the powertrain.
Click to view attachment
2. A view of the inner passenger side front well - to the left of the pink line in the seam where the repair was made from accident damage, but the area circled in orange is also still out of shape and since this is where the sway bars come through and the a-arm attaches underneath, I've got a donor section that I'm going to swap in here.
Click to view attachment
In general, I'm working back to front on the chassis, mainly because I need to get the rear done so I can use the bumper mount points to get it up on a rotisserie.
1. At some point someone thought it would be great to just weld in a piece of plate with a few stitches and the seat rails to that. The floor definitely needs to go and I'm considering boxing it in for re-enforcement. Those decisions will be deferred until after I have the chassis restoration done and decide on the powertrain.
Click to view attachment
2. A view of the inner passenger side front well - to the left of the pink line in the seam where the repair was made from accident damage, but the area circled in orange is also still out of shape and since this is where the sway bars come through and the a-arm attaches underneath, I've got a donor section that I'm going to swap in here.
Click to view attachment
In general, I'm working back to front on the chassis, mainly because I need to get the rear done so I can use the bumper mount points to get it up on a rotisserie.
Here are a few more pictures from the disassembly.
A wide shot of the rear fender:
Click to view attachment
After removing the rear panel, I noticed bomdo and accident damange, removing a little paint to see how bad it was:
Click to view attachment
And here is a close up, way to much bondo and not enough work with a body hammer by the PO. As a result, if I can find someone who has the rear half of the passenger rear fender around, I'll take it and replace the entire section - especially because the rear section around the taillight is out of shape as well.
Click to view attachment
That's a lot of bondo.
Also pulling the wiring completely out was a tedious as usual, especially getting the rear section up through the firewall and center tunnel. Why that little turn is in there at the rear of the center tunnel is beyond me.
Click to view attachment
Next up some shots from removal of the rear panel.
A wide shot of the rear fender:
Click to view attachment
After removing the rear panel, I noticed bomdo and accident damange, removing a little paint to see how bad it was:
Click to view attachment
And here is a close up, way to much bondo and not enough work with a body hammer by the PO. As a result, if I can find someone who has the rear half of the passenger rear fender around, I'll take it and replace the entire section - especially because the rear section around the taillight is out of shape as well.
Click to view attachment
That's a lot of bondo.
Also pulling the wiring completely out was a tedious as usual, especially getting the rear section up through the firewall and center tunnel. Why that little turn is in there at the rear of the center tunnel is beyond me.
Click to view attachment
Next up some shots from removal of the rear panel.
Here are some pictures from removal of the rear panel which after doing it was a real chore and I probably would have been better served doing the fabrication to repair the weak spots in the one on the car.
First of course are all the spot welds and these were the easy ones.
Click to view attachment
Then there were the seams where it meets the rest of the car and the area near the cups for the rear trunk tops included some lovely lead body filler making it hard to determine where the seam actually was in the area of the rear trunk seal channel.
Click to view attachment
I don't have a ton of pictures of this process, but here is a shot of the seam at the side of the rear panel. It appears that the factory put the rear on after the inner panel and then attached the outer fender panels afterwards, creating a sandwiched seam which was a real pain to get to release without creating too much damage.
Click to view attachment
Finally after a ton of work on spot welds and even more finesse I was able to get the rear panel off. Since I am replacing the rear of the trunk pan, I simply used the oxy/acetylene torch to cut around the mount for the towing hook. I still have yet to clean that stuff up so it can go back on later.
Click to view attachment
Here are the brackets from the rear panel after they came out of the blasting cabinet. I still have to do the side cups and the towing and bumper mounts. I have those set aside.
Click to view attachment
First of course are all the spot welds and these were the easy ones.
Click to view attachment
Then there were the seams where it meets the rest of the car and the area near the cups for the rear trunk tops included some lovely lead body filler making it hard to determine where the seam actually was in the area of the rear trunk seal channel.
Click to view attachment
I don't have a ton of pictures of this process, but here is a shot of the seam at the side of the rear panel. It appears that the factory put the rear on after the inner panel and then attached the outer fender panels afterwards, creating a sandwiched seam which was a real pain to get to release without creating too much damage.
Click to view attachment
Finally after a ton of work on spot welds and even more finesse I was able to get the rear panel off. Since I am replacing the rear of the trunk pan, I simply used the oxy/acetylene torch to cut around the mount for the towing hook. I still have yet to clean that stuff up so it can go back on later.
Click to view attachment
Here are the brackets from the rear panel after they came out of the blasting cabinet. I still have to do the side cups and the towing and bumper mounts. I have those set aside.
Click to view attachment
Next up was removing the rear half of the trunk pan. So many spot welds to drill out. This was just the cross member support bracket.
Click to view attachment
Next up the rough cut to get most of the metal out of the way. Compared to the rear panel, this was really straightforward.
Click to view attachment
Laid down some tape to mark the cut line for the final cut after trimming the Restoration Design panel.
Click to view attachment
Test fit of the new section - not bad at all.
Click to view attachment
Next up is sealing the cross member channel with POR-15 now that it's open. And it's hard to tell from the pictures, but I'm also going to replace the front part of the trunk pan using a section from a donor car. Somehow, it got really banged up and bent from underneath at some point - hammer and dolly work won't cut it. And besides, I could use the welding practice.
Things are going a little slower now that it's cold in Michigan; all I have is a propane heater in the garage - sure wish mine were heated.
Click to view attachment
Next up the rough cut to get most of the metal out of the way. Compared to the rear panel, this was really straightforward.
Click to view attachment
Laid down some tape to mark the cut line for the final cut after trimming the Restoration Design panel.
Click to view attachment
Test fit of the new section - not bad at all.
Click to view attachment
Next up is sealing the cross member channel with POR-15 now that it's open. And it's hard to tell from the pictures, but I'm also going to replace the front part of the trunk pan using a section from a donor car. Somehow, it got really banged up and bent from underneath at some point - hammer and dolly work won't cut it. And besides, I could use the welding practice.
Things are going a little slower now that it's cold in Michigan; all I have is a propane heater in the garage - sure wish mine were heated.
QUOTE(ndfrigi @ Oct 28 2019, 11:25 PM)
That looks like a fun project!
Looks like we are are the same plan and state of progress. Fixing dodgy repairs sure gets interesting.
Post your build threads and I'll follow along. I really enjoy the entire process as much as I enjoy driving the end result. 
Nice work. Keep going. Looks like you've got a serious project on your hands. 
that's a lot of heavy metal work. reminds me of my car; it was very tedious but gratifying in the end.
nice job, keep going
nice job, keep going
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.