I figured this group might enjoy seeing my Christmas present to myself. These are for my 72 VW bus. They cost more THAN my bus. LOL.....I did not opt for the Ceramic coating. But as stated these are Camper Specials, New 1.8 AMC castings, Type4store's 2 liter sized SS valves, springs, keepers, etc... modified ports, proprietary valve seats that you can see are inserted deeper, plus a notch for an under plug CHT thermocouple.

Still to come is a Type4store 9590 cam kit with cut to fit Chromoly push rods, solid lifters, swivel foot adjusters, I forget what else. Merry Christmas to me.

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Sweet present

Nice! Those should be good to go.

Is this the notch for the CHT thermocouple? Could someone comment on what sort of tool was used to make the cut?

Either on a CNC mill or bridgeport mill with a ballnose endmill

Pete

Wow...those are pretty!

Is this the outcome to the discussion the other week on whether or not anyone still rebuilds 1.8 heads?

Len won't rebuild old castings! These are new AMC 1.8L heads that he rebuilds. I am running a set in my 77 Westy, definately the way to go to run cooler with the 9590 cam setup too. The 100+ hp in a bus is really nice too.

It is certainly my outcome. I would have liked to have been able to have had the 1.8 heads for this engine rebuilt. But I could not find anyone that I would trust to do it locally. Shipping heavy stuff is expensive. I called a Head place here in Nashville and got the sales pitch of the day. And how "straight-forward" type 4 vw heads are. No details on seats, or porting, etc... That is when I knew that he did not know specifically about type 4 heads.

Oh he was gonna be cheap, but that was not my goal.

Len rebuilt my 914's 1.8 heads back in 2012. I guess NEW is the way to go, now. Between him, Jake and the type4Store, they say that no one has called and let them know that a seat has dropped on any heads like this that they have sold. My fingers are crossed.

http://aircooledtechnology.com/cylinder-heads/

I investigated getting AMC heads from AA, but all their valves and ports are 1.7 sized. They claim that the heads is a 2.0, but the valves are too small. Their new AMC heads are about 1/3 as expensive, but I believe they are 100% AMC.

What pistons and crank do you have in your bus? I am considering getting new rings and putting the 93mm pistons back in with the stock 66mm crank.

I bought some rings but the bottom ring assembly was 4mm thick. too big for the 3mm trough. Sent them back and suggested that they stop selling them as suitable for 93mm type 4 pistons.

These are the small 48cc chambers vs the 2L heads 60cc chambers, nice for higher compression !!

Yes. specs from vendor
Castings: AMC
Chambers: 48.5-49.5cc’s, Stock 2.0 Bus
Chamber Step: .75mm to simulate O.E. head gasket thickness.*
Plug angle: Stock 2.0 Bus
Valve sizes: 42 x 36
Intake Ports: Stock AMC with hand blending to seats.
Exhaust Ports: Long side radius machined with in-house designed cutter, short side radius chamfered.


I am going VW Bus stock. 7.3-ish CR, IIRC. my 914 has similar heads but the rebuilt casting.... with 2.0 sized valves.

I am running AA 914 94mm USA style with the small dish. CR is 7.5 to 1. Head temps are great and it has 50,000 miles on it now. Why run the 1.8 stuff as the extra torque is a must in a bus! Go 2.0l !

3 choices for me.... buy
93mm rings ($50) 1756 cc
or 96mm P/C ($400 non-nickies) 1911 cc
or 71mm crank, 96mm p/c ($700) 2056 cc EDIT: and 2.0 rods ($300 more)

Further edit: I guess I could go full 2.0 and just use 94.5mm P/C 1985 cc?

I am in this deep, maybe I should go 2056?

The math works, not stupid money and you are doing the work anyhow so.............

I have a 1911 (96X66) with Len Hoffman heads and all of type 4 store set up and a 2056 (96X71) with Len Hoffman heads and all of Type 4 store stuff . Both with carbs . The 2056 is the way to go because of the torque. I have been to Lens shop many times and I can tell you he is very meticulous, weighs and measures everything and has the coolest equipment. Like Jake if he tells you something it's the right way to go.

If you are going to the trouble of rebuilding the engine it just makes sense to go to a 2056 as its such a better engine. More hp and torque for alittle more money

You need to include 2.0L rods with the 71mm crank and 96mm P&Cs to get your 2056.
Your 1.7 rods won't work with teh 2.0 crank.

2056 would be my choice.

Jim

Super common as type4 buses used the same 2.0L ones

This is exactly what I'd run in a bus, I wouldn't use the 96mm, you need the thicker wall cylinders. No replacement for displacement, that's what the 71mm crank and rods give you, but you also need the parts to be robust for high loads you can pack into a bus.
Put a full skid of flooring into your bus, plus a trailer with just as much weight and then start pulling some good grades, your engine will be much happier with the 94's.

Back in the 90's I would vacation in Florida plus make 2-3 trips to the US on summer holidays, everytime I would take my 12' car trailer and always come back with a bug on the back plus a load of car parts. My bus ran like a champ everytime.

Mark - you pulled a trailer with a BUS? You gotta be BSing us, right? How much HP and torque in that bus?

Yep, I knew that. That is what happens when you start adding up the $$$ you always forget something.

I guess that takes my 71mm crank scenerios up another $100 to $300. Let's just say to another even $1000.

This bus is worse than a BOAT. Bring Out Another Thousand !

That one was stock Ljet.

This one is a ballpark 100hp T1

Mark, what combo did you use to make a dependable 100 hp bus T1? Displacement, bore and stroke, heads, carbs and exhaust?

Gene Berg kit engine, 78mm X 90.5mm = 2007cc, 040 heads are P&P but stock valves, engle 110 cam, 42mm DCNF "Berg specials", 3.5 quart sump, headers are just cheap bugpack because I have heater boxes. Only thing not Berg is the mallory red cap dizzy with a pertronix.
I built this engine in 1992, it's been in 5 cars now.

I was just playing with the CB performance engine calculator....

Why is it I have never heard of 93mm p/c and 71mm crank? I would still need rods with that. But it calcs to 1929cc. I could keep my 1.8 p/c, and get a crank and rods.

Am I missing something? Somebody has had to have tried that, if it even can be assembled...

1.7/1.8 has a different piston pin height, won't work with 2.0 crank and rods.

i figured there had to be something Rod related stopping it from happening. Thanks.

Since it's a 72 Bus does it still have the early trany?

I am not sure. I sent the tranz out to get magic worked on it. Turns out all those years sitting in a field, caused the inside to drastically pit. Magnesium and water don't mix. So my guy is putting together a rebuilt one for me. aren't the "ribs" how you know? I think it had 6 ribs. Mfg date was 11/71 for the bus.

He and I talked alot about going with a Freeway Flyer. That is what he is making and he suggested getting as much displacement as I could. He seems to think the FF works best with more power. So 1.8 was OK, 1911 was better, so I am sure 2056 would be even better. Decisions, decisions....

@malcolm2 Clark -
I have a 2.0 crank and used set of 96mm P&C's if you are interested. Had them on the shelf for building my original 1.8 (much) later down the road, but yours if you want 'em. Just add rods.....

Well the early 3 ribs were set up for the 1.7L which liked to rev to make HP. The later 6 rib are setup to use the 2.0L HP and torque so you don't have to drive down the road at 5000 rpms.

I guess that is where the Freeway Flyer comes in. Maybe similar to the 6 rib. My tranny guy knows my goal, and seems knowledgeable, so I am trusting him. Fingers are crossed.

I have decided to go with this advice. THanks guys. 96mm are so tempting tho. I have had a couple members offer some good OEM stuff, 96s included. But with the above recommendation and a bit of research it looks like the 94mm P/C are best for the bus. OEM 2 liter is in my future.