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Gatornapper

Dec 26 2019, 07:27 AM

THANK YOU AS WELL! Totally makes sense!

And will be important to me as once I get the engine running well again, I'll be replacing my 178 009 centrifugal-only dizzy with a vacuum 181 009 - and the orientation will be critical.......

And thank you for all the other details like the 12 teeth/30 deg. each bit too.....I like knowing the details.......many thanks......

GN

QUOTE(porschetub @ Dec 25 2019, 10:17 PM)

QUOTE(Gatornapper @ Dec 26 2019, 03:26 AM)

I understand totally that the timing is set wherever the dizzy is on TDC and the engine doesn't really care.

BUT, there must be some reason that the driveshaft location is clearly specified both in the Haynes manual on p. 65, Figure 3.6, and in the photo in Post #2, with a clear specification that the shaft is to be 12 deg. CCW from the driveshaft alignment.

So my next (anal) question is: WHY is the 12 degrees so noted and specified????

There must be a reason. It will work just as well one gear tooth in either direction, I would think. How many teeth on the dizzy driveshaft at the bottom? The degrees per tooth are 360/# of teeth on driveshaft gear.

TIA,

GN

The 12 degree's is a set point to locate the dizzy so the vacuum canister can clear parts on top of the engine like the cold start valve and the cooling flap rod,that position allowing for timing @ #1 TDC puts the dizzy adjacent to the breather tower.
If you have a 009 for example it matters little as long as # 1 plug lead lines up with the distributor body notch @ TDC as you can turn it around and just reset your leads 1-4-3-2.
One tooth out puts the dizzy out by 30 degrees as there are 12 teeth ok.
The Haynes manual is a poor reference in many area's and this is one of them.

Gatornapper

Dec 26 2019, 07:59 AM

Mort -

In my rotor pic, that is exactly where #1 fires at TDC (confirmed on both flywheel and impeller).

What blows my mind is that if I remember correctly, from when I first started the engine, the 'chimney' you describe WAS WHERE #1 PLUG WIRE USED TO BE. But I am not sure as I never got into dizzy as engine was running so well.

But when engine quit running (for no reason I can find), I pulled the dizzy, put in new points, gapped them at .016", put engine where #1 was at TDC compression stroke - and find that #1 fires with the rotor in the position in my pic.

So - if my memory is correct on the initial chimney for #1 being as you described - how did rotor position get changed from position you describe to the position in my pic? The dizzy shaft groove will - as we all know - only allow the dizzy to be installed in one position. I still have never touched the dizzy driveshaft.

I know this defies logic.

GN

QUOTE(injunmort @ Dec 17 2019, 07:09 PM)

in your picture, you are not timed on #1. that is #4. #1 from the back of the car is trans left side. 1 next to it is 2(by chimney left side, 3 trans right side , 4 is chimney , right side. by that pic you are 180 out. can be done with better grasp of system. go by book. put #1 on tdc compression (both rockers on #1 loose) check your fan mark, should be in aperture. clock your dist so that the rotor is pointed at the #1 spark plug. you may need to take out drive pinion and turn it 180 degrees. now set points by rotating dist. until points just break. that is it. next is setting with light while running.

Gatornapper

Mar 3 2020, 06:24 AM

QUOTE(theer @ Dec 19 2019, 03:25 PM)

The answer is NO. The rotor in the 009 points to different "clock" position than the rotor in a stock dist. [i] It's still the #1 cylinder, though, so all that matters is that you have the wires matched up to the rotor's position underneath.
Hope that helps.

Thank you Tom for noting this! I put in the 0 231 181 009 dizzy (for 1.8 engine with both vacuum & centrifugal advance) with a Pertronix 1847V Ignitor and the engine ran perfectly! Yes, TDC is now at the 11 o'clock position now (as is mark on rim of dizzy).

HOWEVER, the ignitor module died after 10 minutes of driving. Yes, it was wired correctly (verified by Pertronix) and no it did not burn up. Using MDS Blaster II coil w/.8 ohm resistor ahead of + terminal on coil as required. No - voltage does not exceed 14v as alternator is only producing 12.8 +/-. I will replace it this week.

Returning the ignitor to Pertronix to see if they will cover it on warranty, but main question is: what fried the module? There is continuity to ground on the black wire all the time, circuit does not open on dizzy rotation. Pertronix has no idea, and neither do I.

But that is my first and main question. Right now I'm afraid if I put in a new ignitor, it will also go bad in 10 minutes - or so.

Pertronix was clueless - so I'll be real surprised if anyone here has any idea. They said their ignitors almost never fail.

GN

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