Any recommendations for a good piston ring compression tool that I can use on my 2.0 and 1.8 liter Type IV motors? I've had a couple of them and neither has worked very well on other applications, and the one I now have is giving me problems getting the pistons back into the cylinders with the new rings in place on the 2.0 liter motor.

They all work pretty much the same. The trick is using enough oil/lube, and the speed with which you push the piston in. I’m no engine expert, but I’ve had good luck using the handle end of a mallet to push the piston down till the skirt is in the cylinder and the bottom ring is just above the lip, then give the top of the mallet a good rap with a BFH. You have to have enough speed for the ring to “jump” in.

Are you yanking my chain? We just had this discussion this morning.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...40434&st=40

See post #43

If it's used pistons you have to make sure the bottom of the lands are fully cleaned out. I use an old broken ring ground square for this job, make sure there's no burrs on the sides of the ring, if you make the ring lands wider you're wrecking the piston.


I pre load and top load the stock cylinders, I put the piston in from the top then push it through, just enough to insert the pin, clip and bed the cylinder. To do this I already have the opposite clip pre-installed and sealant on the bottoms.

Bottom loading band type I use when I have to and I often do. Good on their own and they're good for a popped out oil scraper if top loading.
There's good commercial band type with pliers, but mine are made out of spring shim stock. I don't even think they're an inch wide,

If you have real strong fingernails you can press in the rings by hand. I can do it on a T4. You can use commercial square key type for top loading I don't really like them
The best compressor for top loading is the ring compressor sleeves. One centered rap with a hammer handle end and she's in.
A few different brands, but here's Wisco RCS 09400 or RCS 09300
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wis-rcs09400/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wis-...09300/overview/

Sorry that I didn't see the earlier discussion, as it and the others are very helpful. Turns out that I have the Lyle tool but the spring band has separated from the tensioning cylinder and tends to slip when tightening so it's hard to keep proper tension on it. Never thought of dropping them in from the top and inserting the wrist pins from the bottom, and it seems like that could work as well. Might just replace my Lyle and use a good one instead of fighting the slipping one. Thanks for all the input.

I've always made them out of .060 aluminum, with two bends, with those bends held together by vice grips. I have no vices, but I do have about 6 or 7 of these I've made over the years of rebuilds.
Lots of lube is the key.

I have had the best luck with this, have used the plier/band type, hose clamps, band and clamps, this works best imho.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/departm...ending&ar=1

Complicated and simple.
Both work.
The Hazet adjusts to any diameter.
The smaller ones are factory but you'd need a different one for each bore.

I have a bunch of the top ones for T1 and 356, I've never found them for T4

Exactly how I use my shim stock ones, I imagine I don't have to be as careful pulling mine out,

motorvated if your ring compressor is no good you could cut it up and try making a band type compressor. It not like you're going fuch it up. It will cut with snips, you will have to heat the ends to take the hardness out. You also have to put a couple of divots in the band to catch the lip of the cylinder. You want the band to fully close, but just barely.