Resigned to pulling the motor to find and fix oil leaks. Ordered the Tangerine plate and it really doesn’t look too bad. Heck, we were halfway there just doing clean up.

In looking at a manual we have, it mentions a washer between the oil cooler and the block. I don’t see this on the parts diagram, and when we did the seals I didn’t see one up there. So-washer or no washer on the studs behind the oil cooler???

Also-once we get the motor out, can we just set it on milk crates or build a simple stand? Don’t really want to invest in an engine stand.

Merry Christmas and TIA

Rob

Not sure I’d recommend milk crates, but a cheap, Harbor Freight engine stand and a VW adapter really makes things easier. I just did a quick look and buying both brand new should cost you under $100 total.

On the oil cooler, I do recall there being a washer (technically a spacer) under the oil cooler to space it away from the boss a bit to control the squish of the seals.

VW adaptor from where? Any recommendations?

This is similar to the one I use.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4150...-QaAiWFEALw_wcB

Probably available cheaper from the VW shops.

You only really need the adapter if you're planning on putting the engine on a stand for rebuild or to easily access parts underneath. If you're planning on just doing the oil cooler seals or things that are on top of the engine you don't need it. Just get the furniture dolly from HF (can also likely pick up at Lowes or Home Depot) and work with the engine on that. If you want to get access to parts underneath, an engine stand (HF one is fine) and an adapter like the one mentioned do make life easier.

I thought the spacers (thick washers) went outside the oil cooler, not between case and cooler, but I could be wrong. There's no torque value on those nuts for the oil cooler - don't go nuts on it.

I’m with you-I thought they went on under the nuts, but then there’s a line in my manual that says different.

I’m confused.

When I did it a couple years ago, I was confused but I checked and there was no spacer between the cooler. I dropped the engine onto a harbor freight furniture dolly and it was very easy to remove and replace the seals. I used the suggestion of a little grease to hold the seals in place. I would use an engine stand if I needed to work on the heat exchangers but for most everything else, it’s not needed.

Early VW engines converting to later doghouse cooler require the spacer to be placed between cooler and case to avoid to much squish. Small oil hole case the cooler had a spacer built in. Later large oil hole case is cut deeper for the seal.

A few scans to help with the hardware question. Looks like seal between oil cooler and engine case and washer/spring washer/nut outside oil cooler.

Many years ago, I disassembled and reassembled my engine on my trusty Black & Decker Workmate bench (which I still have and use). I wished I had a better arrangement, but you know, young and dumb. And better motivated. Pre-internet, Haynes and Clymer manuals, Tom Wilson rebuild book.

I ran into the washer discrepancy after my first rebuild in 1992. First engine install I put the washers between the cooler and the engine case, which kind of seems logical to keep from over squishing the cooler seals, but after installing the engine and starting it, and it peeing oil, and trying again, I found the oil leak went away after I put the thick washers under the oil cooler mounting nuts. The Haynes manual describes this incorrectly