The cylinders could be very early EMW nickasil.

6 stud, this guy ? check behind rocker shaft..
http://markstephenshighperformance.com/

Wow, Stephens is still in business all these years later? Interesting.

Thanks gentlemen, let me go look again. Have some penetrating oil on the area where the studs pass through the head.

Is there a chance the cylinders are re-usable?

Dont for get the under cylinder tin that is held by a 4-5mm bolt to the heads. But considering how wacky this build is not sure they are still there.

Id say more like, frightening! IMO steer clear of these guys they are in a class of Motormiester & GEX! No, he closed his doors of the shop he had in Tahachapi some 20 years ago.
I was unaware he started up again, probably because the statute of limitations had elapsed for all the folks trying to sue him. LINK

I did not know that, let me make sure there’s nothing under there. I’ve been reluctant to get aggressive on removing it, will keep poking around and not force anything until you guys tell me it’s BFH time.

Thanks!

The numbers on the cylinders are backwards. The right rear cylinder on a 914-4 engine is #3.

Do you have a picture of the bottom of the heads?

I don’t but will get one and post it tonight. Thanks for the response Cue

Stephens did my heads and supplied my pistons and cylinders back in the late 90s. He did what he did, I didn't know a lot better back then, but we straightened the cylinders and cut the bottoms. It worked out in the end, but apparently I got lucky.

Glad you did!

Is this the bolt @914werke ?

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I had to cut the exhaust off, those exhaust manifold bolts weren’t moving.

Bingo. unless removed those heads arent coming off

Thanks, removed but still not budging.

Found two more bolts - under the push rod tubes. Need to figure out how to remove those now...

The pushrod tubes just twist out I believe.

Check out the goop


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If the head are really stuck on in the past I made an spark plug adapter and hooked a hydraulic power pack (tractor, wood splitter, car lift, etc) and it popped the head right off.

Did this on a 36hp engine with fairly high value okrasa heads and it worked good, but it's a bit messy if you miss the waste oil bucket.

Good idea. I like it!

Could the same thing be done with air pressure? 100 psi into two 100mm pistons/head chambers is 2400 lbs of force. Each cylinder contributing ~1200 lbs of force.

Seems like that would be plenty without the need to resort to hydraulics that would increase the force by an order of magnitude (x10) using 1000psi hydrualic pressure. Would be cleaner w/o risk of dumping oil.

Always amazes me. Mo goop = mo better sealing or so the logic goes.

Superhawk,
I would not use air pressure because the head and cylinder would launch like a cannon when it let go.....unlike hydraulic fluid.

Got 3 of the 4 tubes out, they were really stuck in there.

Once the last one is out I can get to the plate that is blocking access to the remaining two bolts.

Good point. Love the collective wisdom of the forum!

pauter T1 ? simular fins

Hopefully I’ll have at least one of the cylinders off tomorrow and I will look for markings and take measurements etc. I’m always amazed at how much you guys know about these and related engines

Thanks

@sixnotfour might have it nailed. One of your pictures looks like there is an extra head stud where the Pauter's are.

Does it have 5 studs or 6 per cylinder?

Check me on this but I count five.

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Oops - 6 stud.

And BIG. Micrometer said 104mm piston bore.

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@914toy - Keith, your seat of the pants feel (as a passenger no less) for how much torque the car had was right.

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Alot of thought/theory/work went into those heads..

Very interesting...

Surprised they stayed single plug with all of that work and huge bore.

I don’t have an eye for good versus bad on 914 heads. Could these be reusable or would it be smarter to go with a more standard genuine Porsche to eat her head that’s been ported etc.?

My immediate thought is the more standard the better, and if that’s the case then what do I do with these besides turning it into giant paperweights?

Thanks for everyone’s eyes on this rather interesting build, hopefully the process of taking it apart to figure out what it is has been fun for other members here.

That was awesome! Thanks for posting all the photos!

This is very neat to see! Thanks for posting all of the pictures!

Its not really a matter of good vs. bad; these are very unique and made to work as a full engine combo. I would write off rebuilding this thing as a normal motor though. You’d be ahead of the game just working with something stock if standard is your goal. The cost here to change heads you be huge, everything has been made to work with different cylinders and likely there is a bunch more custom on the bottom end (besides the extra studs). It’s interesting to see they still used copper head gaskets. You might think with all of this work you’d see fire rings or something different.

I’m getting the distinct impression you just want to make a normal T4 out of this; that’s really be a shame since someone very clearly put hundreds of hours into building this thing. If that’s your goal I’d put it in some classifieds for trade of a more stock engine to build from.

Hard to tell with the grime in the pic, are the cylinders biral or nickasil?
Inside cylinder, hard magnetic pull is biral, but very slight magnetic pull is nikasil.

Good morning - thanks for the detailed response.

I'm not really sure what I am going to do with this - mainly following up on a promise to pull it apart so we can collectively figure out what the heck it is. Think of it as 914 archeology.

To be fully transparent I am also using this to learn about custom engine builds and how it all has to come together. I've been itching to dig into an engine as it's one of the relatively few things I haven't done on the various vintage cars I've had.

My question about the heads mainly was oriented around using 2L heads as a starting point for a big bore build - the heads on this were kind of a paint to live with as they had weird spark plug angles and you had to pull the intake manifolds to remove the plugs (which made tune up and compression testing etc a certain amount of brain damage).

Good coaching however, and very much appreciated.

Good morning Mark - thanks for the expertise.

I got a hard magnetic pull, I tested with one of those dropped bolt magnetic wands and it firmly attached with strong pull.

Pistons off. You can still see the cross hatching in the bore, didn’t expect to see that.

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Anyone familiar with these wrist pins?

Happy Sunday all.

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Huh - these just slide right out. Was not expecting that.

Pistons are stamped TRW.

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Yikes! Looks like I had a three cylinder - the driver side front rocker assembly was totally loose.

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That's not good.

I so love this setup.. Someday I will build a type 4 turbo 914

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No no no Ben, you need to build a turbo 2.3l that was seemingly put together with a gallon of RTV. Then you’d be living...

Hope you are doing OK up there.

Things are ok here.. Feeling like I am legend at the moment..

Still think it would be fun to build that engine correctly

@mb911 - I think I am going to tear it completely apart and then build it as a normally aspirated engine. External cooler oil cooler and sensible build - then plan to do it all over again in 30k?

TRW made forged pistons for OEM V-8's back in the day, I'd used 11:1's for my Chevy small block build back then. Good stuff !!

@barefoot - thanks for the response and info. I'll put these in the "save" pile then.

Time to start getting into how this thing was set up, started a related thread on

Compression ratio

Thanks gentlemen.

Look at this weird welding on the center of the heads in between the exhaust manifold.

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