So I need to do an oil change, this is my off season for driving we have extreme heat now here in S. Arizona. Is the filter and strainer completely separate? I assume you change the filter and check the strainer? Any you tube videos on this?

Funny...I’m shooting an oil change video this week.

The filter and strainer are separate things. If you check my most recent video on the type 4 (link in my signature), you’ll see where the strainer is. The important thing to remember is that bolt is very touchy. Don’t tighten more than 9.4 ft-lbs.

Glad you're shooting this Ian - one question I have that you might address is - should you do an oil change dead cold or with the oil as warm as you can tolerate while it's running down your arm? Any tips to keep it as tidy as possible - particularly with filter removal....

It may be 914 heresy...but I suggest that if your strainer/screen is clear you could do oil changes with the drain plug every 25 hours, oil filter and oil every 50 hours, and if the oil filter is clear then strainer/screen every 100 hours. And adjust those numbers outward toward double that based on inspection history.

But that's just the airplane owner in me talkin'...

but don't think Bob has had the car long so perhaps its a good idea to check the strainer.
I have always done all oils and fluids on a new car purchase.

I always change oil hot. Never needed a video, it's not rocket surgery.
Once the drain plug is loose, l use a strong telescoping magnet to unscrew it. No oil on my arm, and don't have to dig in the drained oil to find the bolt. Proper torque is a must, especially on the strainer.

Every T4 owner who does his own oil changes should have an inch pound torque wrench in their toolbox. Also needed for the taco plate, I've done a countless number of taco plate thread repairs.

man....every small clicking torque wrench I find (other than a bar-type) starts at 10 inch pounds or more....i guess a bar-type would be fine - just pay attention.

Inch pound or foot pound?
50 to 250 inch pound torque wrench is all you need. So that's 50 inch pound = 4.2 foot pounds to 250 inch pounds = 20.8 foot pounds.

bar type is fine.

Actually clicker wrenches are frequently used improperly. Can't tell you how often I see someone using one to tighten to the click . . . and then give it just a little bit more for good measure don't cha' know.

I've done gauge repatability & reproducability studies on manual clicker wrenches in manufacturing environments and they rarely turn out well. DC nutrunner tools with monitored torque quickly proved to be more reliable than clicker wrenches.

You can forget about DC nutrunner tools for home use. Way to expensive. Better to learn to properly use a bar or clicker wrench.

For light torque and fine tolerances, I like a digital torque wrench. I trust the numbers more than the click. But after a while, you definitely develop an innate feel regardless. As for hot vs. cold...I prefer warm. And letting it drain for a few hours. Or cold and let it drip overnight. Bottom line is that gravity and time will do the job no matter the temp:)

I agree it’s not rocket science. But you’d be surprised how many people have asked me to make an oil change video. It kinda makes sense, as most people don’t start working on cars by tearing into an engine. Oil change is a “gateway drug” lol.

Here’s a link to the digital wrench I’m using. Decent accuracy and not too expensive...

Summit Tools 3/8 inch Digital Torque Wrench, 3.1-62.7 ft-lbs Torque Range Accurate to ±3%, Sequential LED and Buzzer, Socket Set, Calibrated (WSP3-08 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WTSRZKH/ref=cm...p_QfQ588fkq7w6D

There are some things that can't be done with the "Grunt.. that feels tight enough" method. Like CV joint bolts. I used to have them back out. Now I use new schorr washers and torque them to the correct spec in the factory manual. I have not had one back out since.

I have an inch pound click type torque wrench. I also have an electronic digital torque wrench that can be set for inch pounds. I check all my click type torque wrenches against the digital one. When I use one of the click wrenches, I make sure to double check the settings every time I pass 5 bolts torqued. Just a habit, but it insures I don't over or under torque a bolt because the lock came off and the wrench settings changed.

The digital one was very expensive, and came with a lifetime calibration package. I can and do send it off once a year for re-calibration. I think the manufacturer has lost money on that package. I have been sending it in once a year for over 25 years for re-calibration.

Harbor Freight it isn't. Cheap it isn't. But it is very accurate.

What I have been trying to find for years is an inch pound beam torque wrench to use when rebuilding transmissions. They are hard to find.

Clay

You're right - this is why I write things down. The sump is NINE FOOT POUNDS.
(my head was telling me 9 INCH pounds...which is incorrect)

I checked the oil color when I first bought the car last June 11 months ago and it looked very clean, to me looked like it had been changed recently. I drove it about 1000 miles since then maybe more. The dipstick oil still looks like new

Click to view attachment

Great picture, thanks, my question now is if I change the oil and oil filter would I need to take the strainer off to get all the older oil out?

It doesn't hold enough oil to worry about. I clean strainer every other oil change or 5000 miles. I clean it to look for F.O.D. (foriegn object debris)

Thanks for the input guys, one more question..........if I drive the rear up on ramps about 8-9 inches high would that be ok for getting all the oil out?

8-9 inches is in the air, but not a lot....you will not fit under there to do the work (oilfilter for example) or to have a clear vision what is ongoing.
But it does not have to be that much higher, since most of us work with jacks/jackstands, and they are just a little higher than 8-9 inches.

Also if your car is on ramps (and not level) the oil may not fully drain...