Hi all,

I am in the process of putting my engine back together on my 2.0
I ordered a new oil pump and a schadek type 4 with 26mm gears was recommended. The new pump seems to be aluminum with a aluminum plate for the cover. The old pump look to be steel along with the plate. The new pump was installed with permatex thread sealer on case along with the gasket. Then the pump was installed with the permatex aircraft sealant and was pushed snug against the block. (Makes type 4 rebuild dvd) Now comes the problem. The new aluminum square cover could not slide flush against the pump. It is too big and will require grinding. I still have the original pump plate which is the steel one which I slid it on and tightened down the bolts so as to make a tight seal for the pump.
Is there any harm in taking the steel seal off and applying the gasket and permatex aircraft sealant to it then torquing it back down and call it good?
Or do I go through the process of grinding down the aluminum piece and installing? My main concern is not have an oil leak.
Anyone have any thoughts or experience regarding this?
Your input and feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,

Gary
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There is no type 4 shadeck pump, it would be a type 1 pump that has been modified for the type 4. The pump must be modified to work in a T4, if it was purchased as a T4 pump this mod should already be done.
Yes you can use the cover from the old melling pump.

You have to be careful not to over do it with the sealant, pump to case you can use your regular case sealant. Then the cover and pump face must be spotlessly clean, I use Loctite 5900 SI RTV but regular RTV works, you want to rub the sealant into the paper gasket, then remove all traces of excess sealant.

If you look at the pump face you see a circle groove cut into the face, you do NOT want sealant to clog this groove, it's a pressure relief groove and is mostly what stops the cover from leaking.

RTV has a bad rap due to improper use, but before one argues the point Loctite 5900 SI is Porsche spec on all the WC 996, boxster etc engines, and most rubber like products like threebond, yamabond, Dirko, etc. are all RTV based sealants.

Awesome information.
Much appreciated,
Thank you Mark!

I would square up the old melling pump cover with glass plate and a sheet of 180 grit sandpaper.

I am perplexed. I put the cover on and torque down to 15 ft lbs. now it’s so tight on the gears that the drive shaft will not spin. Loosen up bolts and I am able to rotate driveshaft.
Input is appreciated.
I ground down the cover that came with the oil pump so it would fit, but I get the same result when I tighten it down.
Thanks again,

Gary

So it clear the gears are making contact with the cover plate and when tightened it applies pressure to them so it makes it very hard for the camshaft to rotate. The one gear Is just slightly out beyond the housing. Any remedies for this. I have pulled the motor apart going on 4 times as things not lining up properly. Finally got it to pass all the tests until now.
Anyone experience this and have a solution would be grateful.
Thanks,
Gary



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Hi Mark. This is what is was talking about the type 4 pump.

One more picture added with the part number. I figured this may be key information.
Thanks again,
Gary

Does it spin if you put the pump body on without the gears?
Pull the pump out and let me see the back.
Also the drive shaft may be too far in, easily adjusted with a vice and some sockets (if needed). Does the driven gear sit flush with the body face?

Here is a 17 minute video by McMark
Shadek Oil Pump for type IV motors

Outside diameter of the pump should also be verified.
I was told the new ones can be undersized, so somewhat "floating" in the engine case, creating a pressure loss. These are comments from Jorge at European Motorwerks.
Good luck!

Hi Mark,
Yes it spins without the gears in, and it will spin with the gears on.
When I look at the gear that actually plugs into the camshaft it protrudes just barely beyond the lip of the pump case. Hence when I tight down the plate I believe is creating the friction on the gear and causing the entire drive train to become very hard to turn.
Have you ever run across anything like this or am I just missing something?
I have not removed the pump as I am not sure how to now that it is all permatex into place without ruining the pump. On the other hand if it’s a bad manufacture then I guess it wouldn’t matter.
It almost seems like the gear is too long or the unit where the gear sits should have been machined slight more so it sits a little deeper.
Thanks again for the input and helping me through this.

Gary

Thank you Carlos and Montreal for the input.

I ended up pressing the gear that plugs into the camshaft.
1 loud pop, the pin set in and wallah. Gear in and cover plate torqued down and the crankshaft still spins by hand.
Thank you all for your input helping me look at this in from many different angles!

Thanks,
Gary