Trying to clean up this mess of wires to the positive battery connector. Anybody know why all of these red wires are here and what they do? I would like something cleaner and with a stock look.

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Also got this original connector from @bdstone914 and have no idea how that would figure into an original set up. Anybody know?

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One problem sometimes talked about is the lack of fuses for those wires. One solution is to run them through a fuse block as I did. I got the fuse block from a marine supply store online, it's rated as water-resistant rather than waterproof, but I still run with my rain tray, so that's all I need. Obviously, this would not retain the "stock look" but rather the preferred "not on fire look."
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Just be sure that any electronics that want a totally clean 12V get mounted DIRECTLY to the + post, not to a power block. This to damp any voltage spikes that might otherwise damage the component.

To try to answer your original questions, below is a pic of mine to give an idea. Right now I have only a terminal connected for testing electrical so the big fat wire going to the starter is missing. Also ignore the wire and connection in the foreground. That is for a battery tender. Also, on the back side you can just barely see a little bit of a big fat wire that is for my stereo amp which is obviously not original.

What is left are four wires that are bundled into two pairs that terminate. One pair of wires routes through the firewall and up the tunnel. The other routes over to the relay board. One of the wires running to the relay was originally 2.5mm (13 gauge) and the rest were originally 4.0mm(11gauge). The two ring connectors connect to your little mystery connector. The large bolt on that connector replaces the through bolt on your lead battery terminal. Then the ring connectors attach with the allen head bolt.

Thanks for showing me that is supposed to be allen head BTW, now I have something else to change Hey, if you get a chance, could you snap a pic of the hole in that connector with the allen bolt removed? I have the 914Rubber repro of that block and just curious what the original looks like inside.

Looks like yours is wired right but somebody has spliced in larger wires with crimp butt connectors.

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Here's mine. There's a connector for the battery tender. All audio components get attached directly to the battery. A Pi filter can also be used to suppress alternator noise.

here's mine - 4 wires in 2 bundles of 2 to the thru-bolt connector on the + post. Although, my battery has the posts in the "wrong" position and is flipped.

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Ok, that makses sense now. So *(I) should splice in the correct gauge wiring and shield it. Then get them to terminate onto two rings (2 per) to the connector.

*not me personally of course as I already arced a wrench getting the battery on in the first place

Here are the photos you requested. Its just a regular threaded hole, nothing special.

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great you have an original bolt like that !
914rubber created them a while ago to replace them, since they are hard to find
https://900designs-container.zoeysite.com/b...tive-terminal-1

I'm not going to go against what Bruce says but I'm not entirely sure that OEM is an allen head....

I'm not either. If the allen head has KAMAX stamped on it, I'll be convinced. Thanks for the pics Jeffrey

The 914Rubber repro has a problem. They threaded the large stud through the bottom such that it threads across the bore for the small terminal bolt. The small bolt they supply is too long to clamp down tight with the large bolt in place because it bottoms out on the large bolt. You either need to use a shorter small bolt and be satisfied with fewer threads engaged, or cut or back out the large stud with fewer threads engaged. I've thought about cutting the stud and welding it to the block so it doesn't pull out, but with my skill, I'd probably screw it all up. There was another thread on this maybe a year ago.

A couple thoughts. It looks like your wires are spliced with crimped butt connectors. I'm not a fan, but there is little down side to having those wires larger than spec other than appearance. Once you put sheathing over them, it would be hard to tell. Finding metric wire can be difficult and substituting easily found 10 and 12 gauge wire won't be noticeable. Just make sure they use GXLwire. I know you are like me and will want close to the correct gauge but just tossing out that going oversize like you seem to have there isn't a problem as long as the splices are good.

I just learned something here - GXL wire - noted...and it makes sense.

I added a 1 in 4 out fuze box to insure no circuits were un-protected when i was installing a new to me harness.

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Thanks all for your responses and good call on the GXL. Glad I asked and now have a path forward.

FYI, you can also use TXL which is thin-walled so less overall diameter but pretty much the same performance specs as GXL. But TXL will look skinnier than factory for a given gauge. I used it when I ran a wire through the harness up front for the fuel pump. The factory increased the size of that wire after the pump was officially relocated to the front and the TXL let me add a pretty big wire without bloating the bundle.

BTW, I knew NONE of this before working through the rat's nest of a harness I pulled out of my car.

strange to see those wires are extended like that and not really in a good way ,check them and see if they are too short ?.
Yes bbrock wire and connector sizes are odd, found that out.

OCD now kicking in....... I think there is enough original cable to do away with the extended red wire clustrf*#ck altogether and just connect direct to the battery connector.

Problem is the 34R still doesn't clear the rain tray so I think I'm going to pull it and set it aside for my type 1.

Researching now, but may have a couple of options for shorter AGM batteries in original size 42 or even 96R with positive terminals on the right. Details to follow.....

I know, I'm sick

Looking forward to seeing what you found. That said, my Optima 34R clears the rain tray (barely) or can be flipped around with the terminals at the quarter panel with enough cable to connect. Strange that yours isn't clearing.

There will not be enough of the original cable to flip it the other way. It won't clear the rain tray for whatever reason so now looking at a battery that contains the posts within the 6 7/8" clearance that is there or I need an original battery terminal clamp or both.

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You could always add fusible links to the battery ends of the wires. That would add protection while keeping a stock appearance.

Could you just get in there and use some red shrink tube with some proper (soldered?) connections to extend?

Gonna do this.....................

Auto Craft Platinum AGM-96R

Size Matters People! 96R Dims: 9.5" l x 6 7/8" w x 6 7/8" h

The posts do not extend past the 7" battery height like the Optima and also does not have the tabs on the bottom that require trimming to fit the tray.

Found a 911 Battery Connector that will work well and give it a clean look (part# 914.611.311.00).

If I can have 911 Turbo Tie Rods and a 19mm Master cylinder, why not a 911 Battery Connector?


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Nice find

I just texted you the dims of the battery cover. Will post them here too: 9-3/4"W x 7"D x 1-3/4"H

Curious that 911 terminal has a 914 p/n

For those of you that added a fuse block to protect the 4 red wires connected to the battery - what size fuses are you using?

Not a big deal to pull those plastic connectors and properly splice in whatever length you need to fit. Check out this video for a great and easy tutorial. Begin at 6:00 in. The only thing I'd add is it's helfpul to take a single strand of wire and wrap it tightly around the splice before soldering...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7GlDBge_WU

Just got the car back today and will update on my build thread.

After removing the shiiiity splices and wiring cluster, ended up with enough of the original battery wire there to clean it up and connect direct to the new connector.

Super clean and proper!




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Looks great!

Perfect - nice work!

@pvollma
where did you get the fuse box? i’m looking for one like this.

Phil

I sold my 914, so I haven't been checking 914World as I used to. I just saw your request. This is the fuse block I put in my 914:

[url=Blue Sea Systems ST Glass Fuse Block]https://www.bluesea.com/products/5018/ST_Glass_6_Circuit_Fuse_Block_with_Cover[/url]

I actually have one - the first one seemed to be lost in shipping, so they sent me another one, and then the first order showed up. You can see that they have quite a few fuse blocks, so if you decide to use the 5018 model, I can send you the one I have. Just let me know the address.

@pvollma
i did find a different one for now, i will post a picture, but i did clean this up to get better connection and conduction. also i used 25 amp fuse to answer the other post.
cleaned it up and those 4 red wire ends were in poor condition! so was the starter cable end.
tanks for the offer on that board let me know if you do want to sell it.

Phil -

i put new crimp ends on the 3 red wires that go up to ignition, and the other 3 on this fused board on the left side are for the heated seats ans the aux oil cooler fan. so those are all now fused, really cleaned that up .
i bought this super duty crimper that is a hex crimper to get a much better connection.
i was also told to solder those ends, did anyone else do this?

Nicely done, looks much better!

Those fuse panels are made by Blue Sea and sold at West Marine Stores and on-line.
That have 3 sizes . I’ve used one for twenty years; all those red wires run through the panel.

My current Blue Sea aux fuse panel next to L-Jet dual relay.