Everyone knows mallory was bought by MSD at this point.

I have a Mallory Distributor that I suspect may need points.
I dont have a ton of interest in converting it to something else at this time.
Aircooled.net was 0 help in helping me find parts for it.

Does anyone have a set of points for it or know of where to get one or even better something widely available but would work?

The distributor number that I have is a Mallory 2354109
its a single point distributor.

I convert them to pertronix, you would have to look at the pertronix site but they have a kit for mallory. The other option is I beleive aircooled.net sells the unilight module.

The points are generic to mallory so try summit, speed shops, etc.

try speedwaymotors.com seem to have what you may need.

Summit and Jegs still have some Mallory products.

I don't know if these are what you need.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-2504...xRoCI0YQAvD_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-2504...xRoCI0YQAvD_BwE

Try over on theSamba.com

Thanks guys Ill check out the link. I have 0 interest in putting a Pertronix in my distributor as I had nothing but problems on my old distributor.

Yeah, me too. Unknown why they work perfectly in some cars and horribly in others. Had one in but took it out. Others with same 1.8L engine work fine.

But before i get buck wild i borrowed a distributor from a friend that was known good and will be putting it in my car to see if this could be the source of my problems.

Hope you can figure it out!

Distributor is the problem.
Replaced the Condenser, and now it wont run. Replaced also the points re gapped it still wont run.
turned the car over with the key and you can see small sparks indicating that the points are seeing voltage, as is the coil. also used a test light to see if the points are opening and closing as needed.
The light stays on and momentarily shuts off as the points open
sort of baffled at this point what I am doing wrong.

Turns out for my distributor the
points part number is 25042
and the condenser is 400

Replaced parts, Re timed. Car ran well for about 15 miles, after that its been getting progressively worse with no apparent reason.
I had taken it to a local shop because I was out of time and tools to have them look at it, they checked it out replaced the points and condenser and re timed it but its still developing the same symptoms, im pretty frustrated at this point.

I dont have a ton of money to throw at it at this point as i am building its replacement right now.

2.8L 10.5:1 compression twin plug and DC60 cams.

You didn't by any chance happen to mention the "replacement" in front of the car did you? These cars are like girlfriends. Never mention replacement in their presence. Bad mojo.

Gary

Could be the electrical section in your ignition switch is going bad.

I bypassed the switch by going from the battery direct to the coil.

Did that help?


That sounds like you have an incompatible coil and it's burning down the points rub block. I've run into this a few times with Bosch dizzy's and the owner installed a generic coil. Check the ohms between the + and - of the coil, it should read between 2-3 ohms.

Or you may have to add a resistor block to the coil power supply line. I had to do that when I was running a Mallory, and IIRC it was one of the thins they said you had to do in the instruction booklet. You also need to run spiral wound plug wires with the Mallory to keep from burning up the optical unit.

Zach

If you want to pay for shipping both ways, I have a spare pertonix in a 009 you can barrow since this is only a temporary thing.

Its not optical, hence why I was looking for points.
The coil that was on the car was 3.0 Ohms The shop i took it to put one on that was 1.5....

Ive ordered a new coil and spark plug wires as my coil to distributor wire checked out weird.

No, bypassing it did not help.
I did buy a new purple label coil, ill test it before install it.

New coil, new wires cleaned the points seems to be running fine now.
I bought a air meter for doing my carbs from pelican and it showed up the wrong size so i said F it and am printing the parts to make it work.
Just figured i would give a update on this as im trouble shooting something else right now (wipers) and its nice to find a resolution when you search old threads.

Car still being problematic. it dies at idle.

its like someone turned the ignition off. I can see the timing light go out.
I also used a test light to confirm that i have constant power to the coil.
Really not sure what to do. Im going to take nditiz1 up on his offer to test with his distributor though.

There are lots of Mallory parts available on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&a...ts&_sacat=0

Not sure why you go that route... they are great distributors buy cars haven't had points since like 1975 for a reason... high maintenance, take some free advice and ditch the points. They also make a low .6 ohm coil to replace the weak bosch factory coil.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/380369650854?mkrid...t=1&mkcid=1

Are you 100% positive you don't have a vacuum leak.
Engine runs but will not idle is a classic vacuum leak or bent valve symptom.

It idles fine, it just loses spark and dies, I can see the flash go out on the timing light and then as a result of that it stops.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFO2LB4ZLyk

That sounds like a ground issue, got to admit I'm at a loss, every Mallory I've done I've installed a pertonix or uni-light.

Check to make sure the grounding strap inside the dizzy is solidly attached at both ends.

Also check your main grounding strap connections at the transaxle

Ill check the distributor,
I did use a big jumper cable to clip onto the transaxle and go direct to the battery ground. no change so I think that eliminates that possibility.