So I just received a new set of CSP Linkage to replace the hexbar setup. The hexbar might have been fine, but I wanted better. The best would have been tangerine, but I haven't found that money tree yet

Anyway, went to test fit the drivers side and I ran into a snag. The ball screw going through the cam is hitting the stop boss on the rear side of the carb. Now, I guess I could flip the carbs, ugh, but this is how they should be setup as it is a L and R pair with the vac port sitting where it is suppose to on the passenger over top of cyl #4. Has anyone else run into this issue? I guess I could go from a pull type to a push type and flip the cam to the bottom. It just seemed better if everything was in a pull motion as opposed to the cable pulling the pivot which pushes the butterflies.

I can't tell from the pic, but you may have to swap the carbs

Perry - I am trying to avoid that

By adding a washer and grinding down the screw end of the ball I am just clearing it. I may grind the cam a little to get more grip on the end nut as well as all little more space up top. So grinding the top of the cam on the inside closest to the carb barrel and then on the outside where the shaft nut tightens. I know I have seen weber cams have this bump out built in. This to me is something CSP should adopt in their kits as well.

I used a knock-off version of the CSP one my last build,I had to cut the spare thread off and do a little clearancing on one 36 Dell (RH side) one as per pic .
Click to view attachment

I don't know if this will be helpful because I'm using webers but I am using the csp bell crank set up. And instead using the arms to pull the throttles I set them to push. I also used the cams that came on my webers instead of the csp cams.

Thanks Teryn.

It's good to know you haven't seen any issues going to a push type method. I ordered some weber parts from pierce manifolds to stick on these Dells
They are the linkage parts that angle out so we'll see. Worst case I either go to a push type and drop the link piece to the bottom or go the route I currently have which is grind the link piece inside and trim the threads.

That's correct,I now remember using genuine Dellorto arms as the were slightly longer,expect the Weber ones will be the same.
I ditched the ball joints that my kit came with and used CB Performance ones.