I would like some suggestions as to what to use to clean and "brighten" aluminum such as an engine case.

I don't want to media blast the case. I know this would clean it but would end up leaving a more rough surface finish that I would like.

I would like to use some sort of cleaner/brightener. I plan on using a pressure washer or a spray type parts washer.

In searching the web I have found only a few types that can be bought in small quantities (like a gallon).

Thanks for your advise.

I was wanting to use Simple Green cleaner with my pressure washer, but the little detergent nozzle system is broken.

I used Simple Green and love it.

Go to your local truck stop and get a big can of never dull. I used it back when I drove truck for a living and it worked great for polishing and chrome or aluminum on the rig. It will take some elbo grease but well worth it.

I'm going to Hijack a bit...

my tranny is CAKED with greasy crap... I tried engine brite, and it seemed to soften it, but not really cut it... just loosen it enough for a wire brush...

any ideas?

QUOTE

my tranny is CAKED with greasy crap... I tried engine brite, and it seemed to soften it, but not really cut it... just loosen it enough for a wire brush...

I plan on using the pressure washer with HOT water and something similar to simple green to get the real grime off.

I found a product called Aluma Kleen which claims to be an aluminum brightener (biodegradeable) and also a product made for aluminum dip tanks (Aluminum Hot Tank Cleaning Compound). This second one seems like it would work well in a spray type parts washer or in a hot tank. (www.janisan.com/powders.htm)

Anyone ever clean this stuff up short of media blasting?

I may try a transmission shop...

Scotch brite pad. It worked wonders for me. Those little blue sponge looking things that are really coarse. I used about 3 or 4 of those along with a bunch of that engine gunk stuff and some gloves (unless you want to look like a goth for a few weeks) and my engine and tranny is all cleaned up.

I thought about just taking it down to the car wash... coating it in simple green and engine brite and just power washing it... will that hurt anything? I know I'll have to re-grease the output flanges...

Hot water and concentrated simple green works just 'ok'. Never tried hot Simple Green. You need to buy a few gallons and get a big Rubbermaid tub to set the tranny in / over. And get a really stiff brush.

After doing the majority of my transmission with Simple Green, I found that turpentine works best for diluting the solid oil/dirt crap that gets in the webbing.

Reportedly Simple Green will etch aluminum, so it won't leave a very nice finish.

I personally don't care about the 'finish' I just want that gunk off... bead blasting sounds GOOD, but too $$$ for me

btw, how much gunk should be in the bell housing? any?

The inside of the bell housing should be clean, just like the outside of the transmission. but that will never happen.

Just take your tranny out, disassemble it, and take the cases down to Zim's and have them tumble them. Get a tranny gasket kit, and put it back together. You fix all the leaks at once, and you get a nice clean tranny out of the process.

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jul 11 2005, 04:35 PM)

The inside of the bell housing should be clean, just like the outside of the transmission. but that will never happen. Just take your tranny out, disassemble it, and take the cases down to Zim's and have them tumble them. Get a tranny gasket kit, and put it back together. You fix all the leaks at once, and you get a nice clean tranny out of the process.

that's a good one Clay... me taking apart and re-assebling a tranny is like watching a monkey try to screw a football...

maybe I'll look for a cheap spare side-shifter and rebuild it and have them do the case... but that will be later...


the tranny doesn't leak... not now anyway... but I think the tired 1.7 it used to reside behind, did...


how much does ZIM's charge for the tumble? for taking the tranny apart and re-assembling it?

maybe in the winter or next year I'll farm that work out... for now, I just want to drive it

so close... yet so far away...

Go to a HVAC supply store (Johnstone, W.W. Grainger, etc.) and purchase a gallon of condenser coil cleaner (not the evaporator coil cleaner). Dilute it per instructions (a little stronger if heavily soiled) and using a spray bottle, soak down the case, and let it foam away for 5 or so minutes, then rinse with water (repeat as necessary). Be careful, the cleaner is acidic (hydroflouric, and Phosphoric acid IIRC), is no gouda to get on your skin or in your eyes, so wear protective gear, especially during the "rinse" procedure.

"....But Kevin, what do I do with the rest of the gallon?"

Good question! The condenser coil cleaner works great on cleaning EAC (electronic air cleaner) filters (the metal plates), as well as the metal mesh filters found in most stove vent hoods. And here's a novel idea....clean your condenser coil (outside unit) with the stuff and save yourself about a $100 on a service call (power off at the breaker or disconnect, saturate the coil from the outside, spray with water nozzle from the inside out........watch the crap fly out....uhh, while wearing your safety glasses, or face shield of course!).

Aluminum "brighteners" should be mostly phosphoric acid based, maybe with a hydrflouric acid kicker. Any more active acid will eat it away.

Iffin it's got grease on it, acid won't cut it but sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) will. It will, however, dissolve the aluminum rapidly once the grease is gone.

Hot water and a concentrated water soluble cleaner will work quite well. The hotter the water, the easier the caked-on stuff comes off. A brass brush will keep you from scratching the aluminum. If you have a pressure washer that can take hot water (the cheap one's can't), that'll work nicely. If it's bad, make a trip to the self car wash first. A mild acid solution works well to get it looking brite (relatively). Aluminum screen door cleaners are available at places like HD, etc. I've used pool acid as well. Use eye protection!!

Andy

Thanks Kevin,

Have you used the stuff and know it to work well?

Please let me know. There is a Grainger right down the street....

'Gunk' spray degreaser or Easy Off oven cleaner (they remove paint, so aim carefully) stiff brush, attach hose to water heater or use pressure washer. Then maintain with with Simple Green every six months when you pull the rockers. You do pull the rockers, don't you

Those tranny cases are magnesium- not aluminum.

Be careful what you use to clean it with as they use a magnesium "pickle" process to creat an oxide layer for protection.

I like fantastic, simple green, etc, and brake cleaner or lacquer thinner.

Mafg is a reactive metal and I don't like using strong acids or bases on them.

Ken

Spray on mag wheel cleaner (Eagle 1 works), if it's not too greasy.

QUOTE

Those tranny cases are magnesium- not aluminum.

Yup,

My thread was hi-jacked. (Damn terrorists)

My engine case and all the parts I'm interested in cleaning up are ALUMINUM.

Ifin' i was to want to clean my transmission housing, I would dissassemble it completely, pressure wash it with very hot water and a mild degreaser, rinse and repeat until all the crap was gone from the outside. I would then media blast it (walnut shells) until it was nice. Then as stated earlier, I would clear coat it.

But I'm asking about aluminum brightener.

QUOTE (JOHNMAN @ Jul 11 2005, 05:25 PM)

QUOTE Those tranny cases are magnesium- not aluminum. Yup, My thread was hi-jacked. (Damn terrorists) My engine case and all the parts I'm interested in cleaning up are ALUMINUM. Ifin' i was to want to clean my transmission housing, I would dissassemble it completely, pressure wash it with very hot water and a mild degreaser, rinse and repeat until all the crap was gone from the outside. I would then media blast it (walnut shells) until it was nice. Then as stated earlier, I would clear coat it. But I'm asking about aluminum brightener.

Sorry John, I thought the tranny was aluminum-inumum... no more hijack from me...

I think I'll just get it on the road, then use simple grren at the car wash...

If the cases is apart take it to a machine shop and have it hot tanked. I did it to mine and it worked really well.

QUOTE (JOHNMAN @ Jul 11 2005, 02:01 PM)

Thanks Kevin, Have you used the stuff and know it to work well? Please let me know.  There is a Grainger right down the street....

W.W. Grainger in KC

Branch: 411
1443 Swift Ave.
North Kansas City, MO 64116-3921
Phone: (816) 241-5600
Fax: (816) 483-8825
Branch Hours: 7:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.


Find out what the price is and PM me back. I might be able to get it cheaper (read: Wholesale) from a Johnstone Supply near you and put it on 'will call' at the cash counter.

And the statement above about it being too caustic for aluminum is pure BS, that's what it was formulated for.

"Have you used the stuff and know it to work well?"

I've used it for years on various aluminum items (EAC's, alum. filters, Air conditioner coils, etc...), but not on an engine block (yet). I have a spare short-block (filthy) sitting out back, and a little coil cleaner left in the jug, so as soon as it stops raining (Weds. ), I'll do a little test and submit the pics.

Mothers Polish or Never Dull.....
are the two best I have found for, Aluminum



- M

QUOTE

I might be able to get it cheaper (read: Wholesale) from a Johnstone Supply near you and put it on 'will call' at the cash counter.

I did some more research and this is indeed the stuff I am looking for. It is mostly Hydrofluoric Acid and Phosphoric Acid. I found it locally at the Grainger store. It was very cheap about $14/gal. so I bought it.

I have it in my posession and will try it out when time permits. The label says that one can dilute it down to 10:1 for a brightener.

I believe that I will try it out on something inconspicuous before I hose down my good case.

I'll post some pics as my work progresses.




Headrage, I can only see the top part of your picture.

QUOTE (JOHNMAN @ Jul 12 2005, 01:36 PM)

The label says that one can dilute it down to 10:1 for a brightener. I believe that I will try it out on something inconspicuous before I hose down my good case.

That's a good idea JOHNMAN....then adjust the dilution strength to achieve the desired results.

QUOTE (JOHNMAN @ Jul 12 2005, 02:36 PM)

Headrage, I can only see the top part of your picture.

Damn computers...