As per question,TIA

@porschetub

Carve out the inner lip with a knife. Screw in a 14mm lug nut and it will pull it right out.

Thanks so much ,never bloody thought of that,so the bolt will grip on the metal outer after the rubber is gone ?
Whoops just did that and appears I only pulled the centre from the seal,seems the outer is still there .
What next.....
Edit ......sorted thanks it has no metal outer,new seal in now and much tighter on the driveshaft,cheers

If the drive is out you can get behind it easy enough. Unless this is not the part
Only one bolt holds it in.

listen, there is a very easy trick to get it out. With a bolt. As it happens to be....the wheelbolt is the perfect size for this.
Take out one of your wheelbolts. Screw it in the seal. It will catch that seal and then just rock the bolt and it pops out.

EDIT : I might be confused....maybe I used this trick for the washerring that was stuck in the drive.......
EDIT2 : I see @bdstone914 already posted this trick, sorry about that.

Still a good tip to have posted, thanks.

Saga continues,found a fair amount of wear on the shaft carrier and a bit sloppy in the gearbox even with new o ring seal....PO had fitted the lock screw with a fat washer behind it so it wasn't located into the carrier enough,sorted that.
Angle drive was very loose and suspect another leak possible in that area so applied a bead of JB weld and worked well.
Click to view attachment
Progress never the less and next job is to beef up one lock screw on my rear shift rod so it stays put.

Your more likely to have fluid leak at the worn section of the bushing. That’s the reason for adding a second seal. The internal rotary seal should contain the fluid from the shaft.

@porschetub

Note the erosion on the aluminum wear it is not contacting the case. This may cause more seepage.
The bottom part of the angle drive to the top normally pivots.
Hope that works for you.

Thanks guys,my reason for removing it was the change the inner oil seal as that was clearly where it was leaking.
Would like to have machined for a second o ring but have no lathe to do it on as my brother is away so couldn't use his workshop.
Checked it this morning and no leaks so forever hopeful .

Topped off the trans only a small amount to top spill out,decided to look @ what was in there previously before it gets recycled and found a weird colour sort of like water in it,cloudy colour and not the normal to be expected after being changed very recently .
Otherwise clean in the bottom of the catch container,some small bronze flakes and some silver content flakes but a fair amount of what was nothing but dirt and shit ?.
The new GL5 is a nice honey colour certainly not like what I drained out.
Perhaps just more OP's BS about mileage on it ?
Comments welcome.

porschetub, you asked for comments, here mine:
"to be expected after being changed very recently"
well...the fact is that gearboxoil is not changed very frequently and I guess also not recently if you did not do it yourself.
Only in racecars and trackcars and autocross they change it more often,but in daily drivers it is not changed in real life untill a real car guy gets his hands on it.
How do you know it was changed recently ??

and if you find "fair amount of what was nothing but dirt and shit" then that is stuff that does not belong there ofcourse.
Maybe it was a spare box that was laying outside and when they wanted to use it, it just got topped off with gearboxoil instead of flushing it first...

PS : GL5 comes in several colors. Good you have a color you like

Like the end comment about the oil colour .
Some history...I bought a restored roller and the gearbox and half shafts were packed up in the frunk when the car was shipped to me.
Gearbox had no oil in it and was clean on the outside with no evidence of corrosion so 100% sure it was never stored outside,I filled it with oil before fitting,after 300 miles or so the input shaft seal failed so drained the box and fitted new seal,oil changed again.
I have now come to the conclusion that I most likely put used oil in it as I found the container yesterday and the remainder in it was the some cloudy colour ,I'am normally very careful to mark containers as used oil for recycling...lesson learnt here .

I had to replace the seal on mine a few months back, made a video on how to do it for anyone else needing some help.

https://youtu.be/I291iN4QKAk

Brian

Pretty straight fwd job,I drilled the seal and fitted a self tapping screw and it was easy to get out.
Couldn't believe how hard the seal had become just broke up on removal,install was with easy as also as I had a T1 tool I made yrs ago.
Click to view attachment.

Continuing on or "while you are in there" as they say,no leaks @ speedo drive,moved on to my rear shifter rod...found locking screw on the fwd uni-joint was loose ,kicking myself as I hadn't drilled a detent for the locking screw so it was moving around so fixed that.
Just found with all the caked up grease removed from the shifter,genuine cable fitted,and adjustment of cable position has really improved the action,test drive will confirm.
Happy with results .

Test drove today,much smoother shift ,didn't do a gearshift alignment cause it was right,reset the rear shift rod straight up and down in neutral.
No result on my popping 4th gear but still happy with worthwhile results,funny thing as it will shift to 4th with the car sitting and moves the car forward on a combo of throttle and clutch footwork,wasn't doing that before latest work .
Good results with my breather tube from oil tank vent to aircleaner fitting,it sucks the moisture down instead of draining back to the tank....what was I thinking with my old K&N setup ....