I plant to clean top,not sand. Any recommendations for spray paint choice in black

Clean it with a strong mix of soap and water a couple times, maybe even add a little TSP in it if you've got it.

Then I'd go over it with solvent cleaner like PreSol, Klix88, or Acme Solvent cleaner. Use two rags, one with the solvent and the other to wipe off. Change rags as they get dirty and don't stop cleaning until you wipe and your wipe off rag is clean.

This doesn't mean you still won't have trouble with oil spotting, because you may. 45+ year old fiberglass roofs have be coated with Armorall, wax, shoe polish, silicone, and a host of other treatments that can impregnate the fiberglass. Your best pre-paint action is to clean, clean, and clean more.

In a perfect world, you'd use an catalyzed, flattened (to the right level of low sheen), automotive finish type paint, but that's not always practical.

I've got a car in my shop right now that needs the roof painted, and we're going to try a single stage rattle can epoxy VHT Epoxy All Weather Satin Black VHT Satin Black Epoxy I've been using it on suspension components and engine tins, and I like the finish and how it goes on. Time will only tell how durable it really is. Anything in a rattle can probably won't be as good as "real" auto paint, but ease of use is a plus. I get it from my local NAPA store. Online retailers may have it, but some really over charge for it

Super helpful post as usual, thanks @IronHillRestorations

I sprayed mine with a product called Raptor. You can find it in paint shops or Amazon. I sprayed my valance and spoilers the same

After cleaning, sprayed mine with a rattle can. Used SEM Landau Black. Came out beautiful! But the plastic was so dry that it soaked up 3 cans of paint!

Had great results with SEM Trim Black. Cleaned top with Prep-sol, no sanding, no primer, just right over the existing texture that was there. Provides a nice sheen but not shiny.

You must keep a wet edge, which is difficult with a rattle can, but can be done. You will need 2-3 coats.

Have received lots of complements on it. Good luck!


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That really looks nice! SEM stuff is good.

I second the SEM trim black. Mine turned out great as well, sprays nicely out of the can. I've also had similar results with the wurth trim black counterpart as well. You should be looking for a satin finish.

@IronHillRestorations
Thinking of my winter projects and painting my targa top - searched and found your suggestion. Mine is original, texture is fine but bunches of various spots over the years.
Was wondering - your suggestion is lots of soap and water: dishsoap? something milder? stronger? Also, a thread on Pelican suggests using alcohol. Your thoughts?
Like many others, the top has many years of treatment, black shoe polish, and lately small dots of black Sharpie, so probably lots of hidden pockets of gunk in the texture valleys.
Finally, I use Wurth Satin Black for trim - OK for the top, or do the SEM Trim Satin?
Thanks!

If I recall correctly BBrock did his a year or so ago, I am unsure how to find it.

Sem 39144 is the same trim black in qt liquid form.They also sell "hot rod black" in kits HR010 which would be the "Porsche" of semi gloss black , and its just me, but the least I would do is a red scotch brite pad.

Kevin

@StarBear I suggest a stronger detergent than dish soap. Diluted Simple Green or Purple Power is going to clean better, tri sodium phosphate is really good too. Scrub with a soft bristle brush and rinse with clean water, at least twice. I used a commercial auto body cleaning solvent like Prep Sol or Klix 88 after that. Alcohol won’t cut wax and silicones good enough. I would use the scuff pads that are finer than the 3m red, I think they are gray.

I recently spoke with the owner of the car I used the spray can VHT satin black on, and he said it still looks good.

Thanks! Nervous about doing this, but at least a good cleaning is worthwhile.
Would a quart of Prep-Sol be enough? So far, have seen it only in gallons.

Probably won’t need more than a pint or two. Any good auto repair pre paint cleaner solvent will work.

I need to paint mine also, but I need to get back to the original texture first. Any good product or techniques for that.

if the top has been sanded smooth, you will have to duplicate the texture with WURTH SKS shot from a special gun

If only repainting, then Wurth semi gloss TRIM Paint

The top that came with my 914 was so bad, it was tossed. Sourced a decent one from @914Werke , cleaned it with soap and water. Then mineral spirits, then rattle canned SEM Trim Black.

Turned out way nicer than I thought it would. Sheen seems like a spot on match and it's held up very well so far.

Others have said already:

Clean and prep is key
If you rattle can, keep a wet edge
Have enough cans, 2 for me, 2 coats

I didn't know that you could plant these things.

Refresh done!
Followed suggestions posted here. Used liquid sandpaper to degloss, Simple Green followed by substitute TSP, SEM spray prep solv (1/2 can for 3 wipe downs), and SEM satin trim black (2 light coats followed by 1 medium coat; just short of one can).
Whew! Pleased with result. Was nervous about messing up the top.
Fortunately, texture was still fine.

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Looks great! I have that on my "to do" list for my '76.

Do it!
Not nearly as scary as I thought it would be. That SEM spray prep solve worked great - easy to use and the spray gets in all those tiny depressions. Use OUTSIDE or in well ventilated area, though; NOT water-based!

looks great!!

I'm a bit nervous about keeping a wet edge with a rattle can. On the fence about ordering a qt vs. rattle can. Either way it will be painted. The entire car goes in for L80E job soon.

All great info plus…
If needing retexture, suggest this product. Can knock it down with sanding to get just the right texture- likely two cans needed for the whole top if starting from a smoothly sanded state.

SEM black pictured overall a good sheen and black tone match for our 914s.
Highly recommend compatible SEM primers if not going with a 2k primer.

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No trouble keeping a wet edge with the SEM spray. It has a bit of a vertical spray pattern. Used the SEM trim instead of the Wurth as the SEM can suggests no primer needed if base in good shape and prepared (scuffed and deglossed, I interpreted).

Nice work!! It looks great!

Hey, I suppose these blacks would be appropriate for painting the bumpers too, right or not ? (I know Porsche used a combination of sheen levels, with regards to black on the running gear and trim, etc - and it can be a bit confusing). This would make buying the quart a better value, if so. Not that I’m necessarily building for concours, but details matching originality is nice all the same. So - were the roofs and bumpers the same sheen levels from the factory?

Also, I wonder if SEM’s Landau paint wouldn’t have more UV protection than the other choice(s)?


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Yes, I used a red Scotch Brite to scuff, but also Liquid Sandpaper to degloss first.
As for paint, the sheens on both the Wurth and SEM sprays are pretty much the same, though I liked the spray and pattern on the SEM better. I've used the Wurth on the rocker panels and front/rear valences with fine results; never used it on the rubber though imagine it would work and look fine albeit need extra preparation and maybe priming.
Black is pretty good at UV blockage. Neither can specifically mentions UV blocking though the finish of the Wurth does dull over time, but that may be because those panels are so close to the road they get some fine sanding along the way. No experience yet with the SEM as just applied (still awaiting 48 full cure time before putting the top back on).