I have a B&B front mounted oil cooler installed in my 914-6 with a 3.6 964 based engine. I am ducting the air through the two factory ports in the front truck floor. I am having carbon fiber ducting made to force the air from the front air dam opening into the two factory ports. I need a picture or pictures of electric fans mounted in the front trunk. I will use the fans during warm days when the car is not moving. I appreciate your help!

Dan,

I want to help, but I dont know what the B+B cooler looks like. Show me what you have and I'll show you some coolers/fans

I doubt seriously you need fans on the cooler.

I know our RSR replica and the factpry RSR here at the shop has twin 993 coolers with no fans.

B

Dan,

also won't the fans be a restriction to the car when it is moving....

so as a dedicated track car which never sits still at stop lights.... you may not want the fans.

I know the 3.6 is an entirely different beast than our car and that we still have the factory cooler with fans already... but we are so over cooled, I would think that you could easily get away with no fans for staging and short sits.

Here is the passenger side oil cooler. No fans. The bumper is built so it directs the cooling air between the body and into the cooler. The exit is just in front of the tire.


B

This is the passenger side.

Roger Sheridan runs two of these in a V-shape with a common air entrance and dual exits.

Pretend the V opens towards the front of the car. NO fans.



B

Brants 914 is done the same way all of the Gunnar cars are built. Very efficient and tidy.


B

I need fans on mine as well and am planning on adding them. Fine if the car is moving, but not (a) waiting in line at the track, or ( traffic, or © the TJ border crossing (not the place you want to overheat!).

-Steve

I agree 100% all the street cars with 3.6's should have a fan on the stock style oil cooler.

QUOTE (Brad Roberts @ Jul 18 2005, 05:14 PM)

Brants 914 is done the same way all of the Gunnar cars are built. Very efficient and tidy. B

I had to get the idea somewhere....
no room with the oversized cell otherwise.
ha...

brant

I put these 3 fans on my unit.These fans flow 100cfm a piece,and are mounted to the back of the Mazda oil cooler with a simple bolt on frame I designed on cad,and lasered out.
They can be disconnected and removed with a couple of Allen wrenches in about 15mins. if needed.
My car has a 993 motor,and will eventually be primarily street driven,so I felt i'd need extra cooling,for the stop & go traffic.

I know that the car is not on the road yet,but so far this summer with the car idling for a good solid hour in 95 deg.heat w/high humidity the temp gauge has only climbed as high as 205-210 deg.w/the fans running at full tilt.You can definately feel the airflow thru the front grill.

I know that idling isn't putting a load on the engine yet,but it isn't overheating either.

Ron

Thanks guys! I will take a picture of the oil cooler mounted in the car when I can get a chance and post it. I look forward to your comments. Thanks again.

Brad,

Attached please find a picture of my B&B front mounted oil cooler. Do you think it is large enough that a fan will not be needed for my 3.6?

Dan

Front opening...

The openings that the ducting will dump air into....

don't take this as judgemental... but I played around with 3 different exits on the cooler in my old car. I took actual oil temps and found that each time I increased the exit volume, I also dropped my oil temps. I think optimum is to have the exit about 50% bigger than the intake hole.. (unless you can get a venturi or draft effect to help out)

based on that, you may want to increase your exit size if you need addtional temp efficiency.

brant

QUOTE (brant @ Jul 24 2005, 10:32 AM)

don't take this as judgemental...  but I played around with 3 different exits on the cooler in my old car.  I took actual oil temps and found that each time I increased the exit volume, I also dropped my oil temps.  I think optimum is to have the exit about 50% bigger than the intake hole.. (unless you can get a venturi or draft effect to help out) based on that, you may want to increase your exit size if you need addtional temp efficiency. brant

Thanks,

Before the 3.6 installation I ran a 2.0 906 spec engine in the car with a Mazda front mounted cooler. I raced the car for 5 years and it handled the oil temp OK. The 906 motor had a factory cooler on the engine in addition to the front mounted Mazda cooler, the 3.6 has no provision for a factory mounted oil cooler. The B&B cooler is huge, but is it enough and is a fan system needed? I agree with you about opening up the front truck floor for additional air flow. The carbon fiber ducting fabricator suggested the same.

Paging Brad! Fan needed or not? More holes needed or not? Thanks...

Dan

BTW - where do your lines go before they make it to the rocker panel?

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jul 24 2005, 08:18 PM)

BTW - where do your lines go before they make it to the rocker panel?

The lines exit the cooler and move to the top of the inside passenger front fender flare, then down and along the rocker panel.

What make and model cooler are you running?
what dealer did you purchase it from?
I am looking for a cooler as we speak
steve

Steve,

My mechanic Steve Aven ordered the oil cooler from B&B.


Billy Boat Performance Exhaust
23045 North 15th Avenue
Phoenix, Arizona 85027


1.888.228.7435 toll free
623.581.7600 local
623.581.5640 fax

info@bbexhaust.com Information
sales@bbexhaust.com Sales
support@bbexhaust.com Online

It is very well constructed!

Dan

QUOTE (brant @ Jul 24 2005, 11:32 AM)

don't take this as judgemental...  but I played around with 3 different exits on the cooler in my old car.  I took actual oil temps and found that each time I increased the exit volume, I also dropped my oil temps.  I think optimum is to have the exit about 50% bigger than the intake hole.. (unless you can get a venturi or draft effect to help out) based on that, you may want to increase your exit size if you need addtional temp efficiency. brant

For a cooler to work, there must be a pressure drop from front to back. As brant found, the easiest way to do that is to give the air more room to leave than to enter. Leak-free ducting on the front of coolers also makes this happen, by isolating the cool front air from the hot exhausted air. Ducting the air to the front of the cooler will have MUCH more of an impact on its efficiency than ducting the back, unless you have a fan that can suck enough air to create that pressure drop through the cooler and then expel that air without restriction.

If your mechanic thinks the cooler you have is big enough, it likely is, but that's only half the solution. If you aren't moving enough air through it, it won't do the job.

Hi Dan,

No fan will be needed IF you build the ducting around the front side of the oil cooler. The way it sits right now, the air will try and go around it and not through it. It must be sealed to the body in every way/shape/form.

B

QUOTE (Brad Roberts @ Jul 25 2005, 05:08 PM)

Hi Dan, No fan will be needed IF you build the ducting around the front side of the oil cooler. The way it sits right now, the air will try and go around it and not through it. It must be sealed to the body in every way/shape/form. B

Thanks Brad and all for your collective input. I will not use a fan and duct from the front of the cooler to the holes in the trunk floor. I will increase the exit size of the hole openings as well. Back to work!

Thanks again!