Got most of the grime out of the front wheel wells, along with the sealer. The rubber sealer fears fire and a propane torch helps. With suitable caution.
At the bow I will be replacing the trunk floor to get rid of the former AC hack. And under the turn signals rust again. Not sure, but this may be the last of the wwelding. Or not.
Left outside.
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inside
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Right side.
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I still have some welding to do up in the bow, but summer is here and so is humid air. I have to protect bare metal. I have two questions.
1
I love PPG DP40. I will be putting it on and then working with some small amount of body filler. Then another layer of epoxy. There are places where rust lurks untouchable. Between layers of metal, or in isolated pits. I don’t want to make the good metal into thin foil just to sand out a couple of pits. But, what to do? I have three products that use acids to turn the ferric iron to black ferrous form. This is more stable.
I can use them and cover with epoxy. Or, I can just trap the rust away from water and o two with the primer. For those who use epoxy primer, what is your practice?

Number the two.
I was thinking of covering the wheel wells and underside with Raptor bed liner. Ever notice how antagonistic the names for truck products are? Seems like a good idea, but I saw someone post saying that this is used to hide sins of the DAPO, me in this case. Big deal? Anything better?

Thanks!

Hey Warren, 1st good work my man; 2nd, If your not in a hurry to spray those wheel wells I have a gallon of bed liner I can give you at the RRC but you'd need to source a pint of activator. I traded a flux core unit to a friend a few years back for 2 gallons of bed liner and one pint of activator. It's just been sitting around so LMK if you want it.

Thank you!
A gallon? What color? I have to consider if I may. I am almost at the point where after two years of very slow cleaning and patching the project might actually move along. But I have to pull the plug on it for awhile to get ready for the trip.
Any advice beyond that?

It's black Warren. I used a gallon when I converted to water cooled. Shot it everywhere water might get if I developed a leak.

Throughout this project I have found two tools really helpful
The first is a tube with a clutch cable piece sticking out. It looks like this and
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gets into places like this
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I use the piece of copper pipe as a bearing to guide and push the brush along. The number of holes like this is amazing. That is to say there are a lot of them.

Another tool I am fast wearing out is this from Milwaukee. I am not touting the brand but they are the only ones selling something like this. Far more torque than my (cheap) air grinders. I have a dozen air die grinders so that I can choose a bit or sanding disc quickly by just grabbing a different die grinder. The battery powered tools are a bit too pricey for that but Roloc type discs help. You need a lot of batteries if you want to keep at it steady, and the chip will tell you no when the tool heats up.
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A curious thing about the car is the absence of front jack points. Same on both sides of the floor. Absolutely no sign that the floor was ever molested other than the frunk floor for AC. No signs of welding on either side with bare metal showing inside or out.
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This is one of the last 914s ever built. Did the factory just run short of doughnuts that day?

Here is another shot...ad nauseum I suppose. It shows what you do when the wires wear down. Just use a cutter to remove some of the tube.
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And here is yet another place to use one. As you can see I have moved ahead into the bow.
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Waited to replace the frunk floor so I could crawl through the hole to clean and sand as needed. Time to finish that part with a new trunk floor patch that RD sells for replacing the AC modified floor.
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Still have to finish patching the holes at the very front. I hope that I am on the last spool of wire and the last tank of Ar/CO2.
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General consensus is that those donuts aren't jack points but were used to hold the chassis in place on the conveyor belts at the factory.

If you look at the backside of that area, there is no support what-so-ever to handle the full weight of the car. You will see the floor pan buckled up there on a *lot* of 914s.


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That sounds pretty much like I thought but used the word because it is so often used and understood. Floors bent up in front and in places where they weren't even trying to find a good spot. I am still interested in why my car came without them. I find it very hard to believe that they were there, taken off and the metal cleaned up perfectly smooth even under all the sound deadening and sealer.

Either that or Franz knew it was the end of the line and said " you know what" in German

Great looking repair work

Those guys new style when they saw it. I find it interesting that all of that tooling is stuffed underneath where they were working. No where else to store it? Also, is this what the Brits refer to as soft tooling?

I think on second thought i should be calling them fixtures. But i don’t see any subassemblies loaded in them.

Did you really look at the correct place ?Here is a factory doughnut.

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That is the spot I am showing naked of doughnut. My picture was from the front. I have taken the plug out of the larger hole and the one closest to the side of the car is shown.
I have the '72 I can compare with just to be sure.

Your Milwakee cordless grinder looks cool, I have done a bit of poking around and am unable to find it. Could you reply with a model #

thanks and your build looks great