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DRPHIL914
my washer has never worked , but i am reinstalling this as i have a NOS 911 pump and switch in column installed, but i don’t have the hose end connector that goes onto the bottle. anyone have a picture of the actual parts needed to connect the hose? and better yet the parts themselves? i have the bottle, and i installed the new squirters and lines to the T,

Thanks

pictures shows the fitting but it’s missing something to hold the tube in place yes?
DRPHIL914
here is a picture of the set up for a 914/6.
i guess the question is, can i use my regular 914 bottle and just hook up to the bottom connector for water supply, or, in doing this conversion do i need to get an actual 914/6 bottle with the supply and return connection at the top like seen here?
wonkipop
that is the screw on fitting that clamps hose for a 4 (air pressure) bottle.
fits on to cast in nipple with thread that is part of the bottle for a 4 and is on the underside.

a 6 originally seems to have different bottle and fitting?
or fitting is part of bottle when i look at parts catalogue.
no separate part for fitting listed. says bottle complete.

part # for 6 bottle is 914 628 080 10

part # for 4 bottle is 914 628 075 12.

looks like the 6 was designed with a return line for some reason.
maybe in case nozzles blocked and to stop lines blowing off.
wonder if it is necessary. guys who changed 4s over would know how to do.
when you look at parts diagram the electric headlight washer system is the same (for scandi countries) - has a supply and return line from pump to bottle.

i was just reading this thread before, has some pics of 6 bottles.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=317791

DRPHIL914
QUOTE(wonkipop @ Mar 29 2021, 11:28 PM) *

that is the screw on fitting that clamps hose for a 4 (air pressure) bottle.
fits on to cast in nipple with thread that is part of the bottle for a 4 and is on the underside.

a 6 originally seems to have different bottle and fitting?
or fitting is part of bottle when i look at parts catalogue.
no separate part for fitting listed. says bottle complete.

part # for 6 bottle is 914 628 080 10

part # for 4 bottle is 914 628 075 12.

looks like the 6 was designed with a return line for some reason.
maybe in case nozzles blocked and to stop lines blowing off.
wonder if it is necessary. guys who changed 4s over would know how to do.
when you look at parts diagram the electric headlight washer system is the same (for scandi countries) - has a supply and return line from pump to bottle.

i was just reading this thread before, has some pics of 6 bottles.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=317791


yes this is the part i remember but its not everything needed to add the hose, there hast to be something else thats missing that holds the hose on that nipple on the bottom of the bottle i dont see how that alone is going to compress the hose and hold it on ..... so if someone has one they can take a picutre of that would be great...

Phil
DRPHIL914
so i found the washer bottle top used for a 911 that has the same dual outlet on the cap like for the 914/6 and has the hose and return/air inlet, so i could use this and just cap the bottom off, or use the bottom supply with no return line,

has anyone done this conversion?? if so how did you approach this,?
wonkipop
i resurrected all the lines on my 1.8 recently. its the air pressure system.
from memory all that holds the bottom hose on is that screw on fitting.
i'm trying to remember exactly how as i can't take it apart at present, its pressurised and full of water. i think its something like an inner nipple and an outer screw and you push the hose on to the nipple and then screw down the black fitting. simple but effective.

you could adapt the bottle as you say to take the 911 part by drilling it out on top.
the 911 part has that little leg down so it can draw water from the bottom of the bottle.

another alternative might be to adapt the screw top of the standard 4 air pressure bottle to take a return line if its necessary? drill right through it so it does not have the close off valve in it anymore.

i'd guess you also need to be able to let air into the bottle somehow so you don't get a vacuum when the pump pulls water out. looks like the original 6 bottle might have had a ventilating cap?

there is maybe another subtlety in the system too.
earlier cars have a backflow valve in the washer nozzle.
but later cars with black nozzles like my 74 have the valve as a separate piece in the line to the nozzle and the nozzle does not have a valve. those in line valves are a standard 911 part and still available from porsche.

in the parts manual for the 6 with the pump the two T pieces are listed as two separate part numbers. could one of these also be a pressure relief valve (possibly the one that Ts off the return line back to the bottle).
the lower T is part # 901 628 749 20.
the upper T is part # 901 628 745 20.

it makes sense that the lower T would be a valve otherwise you would be just pumping half the water back into the bottle without getting enough pressure at the nozzles?

would be a lot simpler if it did not have to have a return line.
RiqueMar
Hi All,

As chance has it, doing this now with a pump I found from Uro parts (Link here) and have both types of washer bottles.

Because it was in cosmetically better condition, I chose the bottle with the single-outlet on the bottom, and will snap a few pictures when I get home (1-2 hours). bye1.gif
wonkipop
i'm thinking that the parts/schematic for the 6 electric pump dates from an era when the pumps probably didn't have an inbuilt pressure relief valve.

not dissimilar to the orig fuel pumps which had an almost external pressure relief valve in the port assembly feeding into the return line. but fuel pumps now do the pressure relief back down the supply line keeping things simple.

a modern electric washer pump is likely going to be pretty much like a modern fuel pump? capable of relieving pressure back down the supply line.
if so makes it a lot simpler than the schematic for the 6. no need for that return line?

i can see why they would put a pressure valve T fitting in back then.
if your nozzles iced over in winter then a pump without a relief valve would overpressure the lines and blow the hoses off.
RiqueMar
Hi all, attached some photos of my current progress.

Reading through the thread, interested in hearing what the consensus is. Though I'm no expert, seems that @wonkipop has a point about temp's and freezing.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
wonkipop
that looks like a pretty neat set up @RiqueMar .

the more i think about it, the more i believe modern electric washer pumps will pressure relieve back through the supply line. so it does not matter if the nozzles freeze over, with a modern pump it will just push back into the bottle via the single supply line and not overpressure.

i haven't had a good look at a modern one.
its all buried on my renault clio behind the firewall and impossible to see.
someone sensible here will know about modern pumps and what they do.
i doubt the 6 plumbing has to be done unless you restore a 6 authentically with an original pump.

i can remember the washer nozzles freezing over on my father's car back in the 70s.
australia does not get cold like north america, but out in the country in winter you get morning frosts which freeze everything up.
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