As you all know, I restore relay boards. Jeff B suggested that I go to using an electrical compound Epoxyseal 9000($40) to seal the relay boards. So, I had 7 boards to seal up. They were all cleaned, tested and ready to go. I had enough to do 4 the old fashion way. All the boards were sealed with silicone in the 4 areas that will leak otherwise and left to dry for two days. So yesterday, I followed the mixing instructions for the Epoxyseal 9000 and set about filling the compound in the back of the boards. Everything looked good when I left them to dry. Went to the warehouse this morning, 3 ruined boards. Best I can tell the epoxy did NOT play well with anything it came into contact with. The epoxy ate the glue off the tape and came out the side of the end and the voltage regulator screws. Guessing it melted the silicone and ran out the voltage regulator plug and the clip lockdown holder. Could not even to begin to peal the tape off the boards. 4 hours, $40 and 3 ruined relay boards

Not sure what you can use to plug up board before pouring the Epoxyseal 9000.

Is that heat damage? I know many two part epoxy products can get pretty warm.

Either way, that sucks.

I used furniture wax with good success (just did not seal all the places). After the epoxy set, I was able to pick out most of the wax and then flush the remainder with solvent.

Sealed holes.

Yikes! I used this stuff with silicone to seal holes with no issues.

Really sorry to hear of this Mark.

"Once an epoxy is fully cured, or a silicone is fully cured, they can be used adjacent to
each other without any issues." from here: https://www.jpkummer.com/sites/default/file...nteractions.pdf

Did the epoxy otherwise adhere well to the board, and did it just ran out the holes?

@914sixer

I do have about 6 stripped boards to send to you.
The old way seems fine to me. I do wonder about the effect fo heat ovrmer time on it.

Ran through every hole. Turned the tape in to rock hard material. Still willing to try one more board to see what I can do. Will do a liquid test to make sure bottom of board is COMPLETELY sealed.Epoxy was rock hard once cured.

I have wondered about that rubber in a can they advertise on TV. Could make a thick water tite seal

Rick,
Flexseal liquid is what I have been using for years.

Flex Seal exactly what struck my mind.

This is what I used for the fill. It remains moderately flexible after curing.

I used spackling compound to seal the holes and Plasti DIP as the sealant. When the Plasti Dip cured, I just washed out the spackling.

Gary

Liquid electrical tape works great too...especially if it's just a few pieces in the potting that are missing.