I need a little input here, please.
I’m replacing the suspension console with a new piece from RD and have hit a stumbling block.

Before I removed the original unit, I took a number of measurements, and made a jig/fixture to locate the bolt hole right on the money.

The car I bolted to a cart and supported at the front and rear suspension and the trans mount area and the rear firewall,also have door braces installed.
Yes, I plan to completely sandblast the area and make sure there isn’t more damage, and Yes, I am going to make a patch for the skin portion I removed.

I was doing some quick test fitting of the new console and when I bolt my jig to it and make sure the bolt hole is on it’s proper position,,,,,,,the front of the console has about a 3/8 inch gap between it and the long.

I’m wondering if anyone else had run into this issue?
I’m sure I can cut & modify the piece to make it fit and close the gap,,,,,but I hate to do that if this is just. “Blemish” part & I should maybe just get another one?

I’ll try to post pics to show what is happening.

Jig

Firewall support

Bracing

Top view

Old one

Yeah I need to make a patch

New piece

Gap

Set in place

Top view

No real comment to your question. Can't imagine anything moved around with the jig you built, a beautiful job.

Is the new part made right?

Pretty common with any reproduction piece that you will need to modify to fit.

Get a bigger keyboard. 8^)

My $0.02. First, I'd contact RD, tell them what you're seeing and send the key pics that show that gap. I'm not suggesting the part is incorrect, just that I'd want them to review it to be sure it's OK. We all know there is a fair bit of variation across individual chassis and repro parts often need massaging so this sort of thing isn't really a surprise, as @mepstein points out.

I replaced my suspension consoles with the Tangerine Racing pick up point kit. It's a bit different design than stock but... On one side, I have to add a strip of material about 3/16" wide to close a gap.

So, assuming RD says the part looks OK AND you're confident in your fixture (which looks really nice, BTW), I'd feel comfortable slicing the console and moving things around until it all sits nicely against the long.

I'm sure you're aware of this but I'll mention it anyway: Be sure the console fit is relaxed against the long when it's bolted firmly to your jig and not being forced into place, else it'll move when you unbolt things.

Hope this helps. And again, awesome jig!

Thanks, bit I can't take the credit for the cart. I got the idea from reading through Jeff Hail's build thread.

I've got 40 years experience as an indy Mercedes tech, but this is my first dive into body/rust repair.

Thanks to You and Mark for responding.
I know I don't ever post much, but I've been reading/studying here for years as I've owned this 914 for over a decade and am just now getting time to work on it.

I know that most aftermarket body pieces need a little "work" to fit....
It's just that I searched about 15 different threads on replacing this piece and nearly everyone says the part pretty much "falls" into place.

I'm confident I can cut & mod the part to fit, and I'm up to the challenge.
I just hate to do that if this happens to be a flawed one and a different unit would truly "fall" into place.

I'll contact RD and see what they think. I'm not complaining at all, as they have been great to deal with and I am thankful that parts like this are available.

I was a bit surprised with the many hours I have scoured the highly detailed builds here that I've never seen anyone mention having to tweek one of these to get a good fit.

Recently had the same issue. Bottom return flange was too long in my case. Was hitting the down standing flange on the bottom of the long before the front of the console could seat to the side of the long. Yours looks to be doing the same.

Click to view attachment

Still doing rough fit and needed my trailing arms back from powdercoat before I can even think about final position. Likewise, I still need to add the 2nd layer of "wrap" to the new long. So a ways to go on my part. I haven't final welded mine yet until I can add that 2nd layer, and after I can mock-up my rear trailing arm and make sure I have proper geometry, wheel base, and range of toe.

I agree. I believe a little trimming of the bottom flange will get me a better fit, but it will also move the control arm mounting bolt "outwards" too. Maybe I'm being overly paranoid since this piece locates the inboard side of the control arm.

I was also thinking a 2 step fix. #1 slightly trim the bottom flange of the new part
#2 go ahead and scab in an extra patch to the skin of the long to help fill the gap.

We'll see. This type of work is all new to me, but I'm learning a lot and it's great therapy.

Thanks for the input.

A couple things to consider.

1) It is more of a pivoting around the bolt hole rather than a pure translation of the whole console. I really didn't have to trim much to get it to fit. It was more of a thin triangular taper. More at the front, none at the rear.

2) If your original console was rusted and weak - you can't fully assume that it hadn't deflected and was in the OEM position when you built the fixture. Mine was so far gone, a fixture whould have been worthless. LOL! Yours looked much more solid tha mine!

Click to view attachment

3) What ultimately matters is the wheelbase, track width are maintained while still also allowing for alignment geometry.

Don't get fixated on where the original console was. Better to measure the items in #3 and be sure those can be met before final welding.

Having said all that, take my words as a generalization becuase I still don't have mine in place for final fitment.

Great job working to save another teener.

So long as you've measured and are confident the pivot shaft is in the correct location, in correct plane, etc., it sorta doesn't matter how things connect to the chassis. Yes, I'm exaggerating a little but you get what I mean.

Keep the pics & posts coming. I'd really like to see how your build comes together.

Try to triangulate the current bolt hole location on both sides and see if the distances to other chassis points are an exact mirror on each side.

If not, maybe your original mount wasn't in the correct location when you started.

Thanks guys, you all bring up some good points.

I did measure distance from left to right side ear,,,,and to the little hole under the rear window area of the firewall.

I do not have the lower hole in the center of the firewall to measure to that Jeff Hail mentions in his build.

Of course, I got too busy at work today to call RD, and I'm probably going to check all my measurements one more time before bugging them, as I am pretty sure I can get the desired fit with just a little planning & trimming.

I suppose it might be time for me to start a "build thread" of my own for this little car.
My progress won't be too fast.
In addition to the 914, I have a number of other "projects" that eat up my time.

I try and work on the 914 on Sunday mornings. Sometimes, I get lucky & manage to get a 3 day week end on it.

I've been posting on my build since Dec 2019 and still not done. Can't be any slower than that! Like you, if I manage a solid 1 1/2 days in on a weekend I think I'm doing really well. Work doesn't leave much time to get much done on a week night!

By all means post a build thread! You've got good stuff going on there.

Well, just wanted to apologize for no updates.
I didn’t get a chance to work on my car this weekend.

Helped a friend on Saturday with his newly acquired 1949 studebaker truck /barnfind.
Today I helped another friend who is microsquirting his 914.

Click to view attachment

Stude

Thanks Andy!

Bingo.

Can triangulate from the front suspension cross member rear mounting bolt holes all the way back to the consoles with a tram gauge. It will get you length relative to the suspension mounting front to rear but not height and rough width if you measure correctly.

Also use the hole in the center of the firewall below the back window as a center point to measure from. From that point you can obtain height and width using stone age tools.