Does anyone have a pic of the accelerator cable routing at the transaxle? Specifically as it goes through 914 423 285 01 "support for accelerator cable".

Also where the return spring should go. I have a converted to side shift, if that matters

This

That looks basically right but the curve in the $100 coathanger appears to be wrong, should be flipped?

I think it looks wrong because the entire rod is not shown but I agree, the curve is for the cv joint

Is that really how they are all set up? NOT having a go at you Mark, just never seen the set up and isn’t quite what I was expecting.

Yes that is the six setup. I have most if not all of those parts Tom.


@tdskip . The critical part is that you have an early trans intermediate plate with the hole drillled in the intermediate plate of the trans for the post that mounts the crank.

Yes, stock six setup. Similar to 911 but the bell crank is slightly different. If you don’t have that early intermediate plate, Rich/a914guy@aol.com has an adapter that bolts on.

Thanks for the pic, here's mine. I think I need to move it above the clutch pulley?

(I had forgotten to put on the support bracket when I did the transaxle rebuild, was looking through the 'leftover parts' and did an 'oh sh!!t'. I 'think' I found the only logical place for it...)Click to view attachment

See the first picture in the thread. The rod arm should be pointing about 3-4 o'clock, the cable should be attached to the bottom of the bracket (bolted to the transmission) and the cable routed above the bellcrank pivot.

I put a big return return spring on mine that attaches to the muffler hanger.


Click to view attachment

I have drilled and tapped that on several later transmissions without any problems. Gotta be straight though and not go too deep.

There are many versions of the bellcrank in the 356 / 911 world. Same goes for the
'coat hangar' Mismatched parts can lead to various symptoms such as heavy
effort, insufficient throw, too much throw....stretched cable etc.etc.
A return spring at the bellcrank is not standard.
Be careful if fabricating your own version.
Original 6 parts are the obvious choice but not easy to find.

If all is working correctly you don't need an extra return spring. The two weber carbs return springs will close the carbs.

the key is the correct bell crank which is unique to the 914-6....early 911 bell cranks look similar but are at the wrong angle for the 914-6. Below is a pic of the 914-6 bell crank.



Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I think this is a pic of one I sold to Glenn/GMS

Rich Johnson sells an excellent reproduction.

That throttle holder bracket and bell crank are (2) of the hardest to find unique 914-6 parts in recent years since all the new factory stock dried up.

I have a nice set of them for sale still if anyone needs the real deal.

Thanks

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=353324&hl=

You can reclock the bell rank by heating with a MAP torch. I used brazing flux and after heating you can move the arms to your satisfaction. Get it right and the world is your oyster.