I have been using the standard, aftermarket, Dansk shift knob. So far, I've gone through two of them, they both have broken around the bottom where the shift knob mates with the shifter itself.
The plastic on both appears to have just given away.
I like the look of the original style shift knob but, I don't want to continually replace them either.
Anyone have any suggestions on a replacement?

How?? The shift knob on my car is original, and other than a little crazing on the clear epoxy over the shift pattern, it's in perfect condition!

Three things come to mind:

1) Do you have the appropriate crush sleeve?
2a) No? Is it pivoting at the top and stressing the bottom by rocking?
2b) Yes? Is the crush sleeve too tight and stessing the knob leading to craking? Mabye Dansk hole a smidge too snug?
3) Is the shift rod seating deep enough in the Dansk knob? Is it only going in part way leading all the force and leverage to be on the thin necked down portion at the base of the shift knob rather than up in the knob

Agree with comments above - never had one crack on me.

Without blaming the victim. I can't imagine how that much force is being placed on the knob. Not saying your doing this but trying to speed shift a synchromesh transmission is a bad plan for a lot of reasons.

@Van_B They both broke like this: (about 2 years a part)
Click to view attachment

@Superhawk996 I'm thinking it must be something close to #3.
I don't speed shift at all so, it's not that.
But you can see where it cracked so, maybe #3 is why. It's not sitting down deep enough.

I'll go dig out my OEM knob somewhere and measure the depth of the hole later tonight.

Makes sense… good to know.

I drilled a hole in a block of wood bigger than the shift pattern. Filed the edges to match the contour of the ball. Placed a couple of cloths between the wood and the shift knob, wacked it down with a dead blow hammer and got it seated down all the way.

Thanks everyone, for all the input.
I will continue to look and then make sure it's placed properly. I think I want one with a set screw in it.

Mine, too. That crazing is very normal and on every one I’ve ever seen. Had to remove it twice lately for shifter work. Use a new crush washer thingie.

Somewhat connected to this, I'm going into my interior this winter. What is the best wat to remove the stock knob? Is it just press fit? Mine is on the shifter very nicely and I hate to break it removing it.
Thanks in advance

Best way I’ve found is cut a slot in a 2x4 the same width as the shift rod. Put it under the knob and tap the wood with a hammer.

Unfortunately, some people glue on the knob and it may have to be destroyed to remove.

mmichalik

Sparco makes one that is about the same size as OE and uses a allen bolt to lock...I have used the polished one before on track cars and they are nice and also rugged...fit the sifter rod perfectly

https://www.ogracing.com/products/sparco-ra...=31776680312898

Can't offer any advice, but I had an original knob break almost identical to your top pic many years ago. I think I still have it in a spare parts bin for some reason. Just thought you might like to know you are not alone.

@mmichalik

Probably tbe crappy crush sleeve that comes with the Dansk knob. I noticed how thin it was and went on with little resistance. Get a Porsche crush sleeve.
Might help to sleeve the lower end orad o rings to reduce movement.

Forgot about this thread.

58mm is the depth of the OEM knob.

Thanks to everyone for the responses here!
I appreciate it.

1 1/2 wraps of regular masking tape worked for me to add dimension thickness to crush sleeve.

Thanks guys. A 2x4 and a hammer, brings back my Ford days.
Rob

The hammer and 2x4 is the same way I remove knobs. And removal is why I started using a larger Delrin bearing surface so the wood would not get marred on removal for the ones I make (made - since its been a few years since I've done a run.)

Zach

The plastic should not break. Its that simple.
We machine ours out of delrin and have the option to add a set screw that Id recommend. About to do another run now.

Not as cheap as Dansk, but you get what you pay for.